Haven't done them in a few years and watched a video or two and noticed a few things to ask
1. Torque on caliper bolts?
2. I remember hitting the back of the new pads with anti sqeal but never saw this step in videos. Any rec's
3. Same question for lube on slide pins.
In case anyone is wondering - all OEM Toyota pads/rotors. Tried to find brembo locally without luck and a nearby Toyota dealer had rotors for about 67 bucks and no shipping charge.
I'd say "good n' tight", I mean it holds the caliper in place.
anti-rattle/squeal is nice, i forget sometimes and it doesn't matter.
I mean a guess slide lube is OK, but again unless they're all rusty not an absolute requirement yet why not on all lube points huh?
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
That's what I use to lube pins and the backs of the pads on all the brake jobs I do.
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2000 SR5 Sport - 4EAT and E-locker, King 2.5s, EimKeith PCK, SPC UCAs, 33" KO2s on Black Rhino Boxer gloss gold 17x8.5, Savage/Lotus skids, 4xInnovations front bumper/sliders, Shrockworks bumper & tire carrier, Lil Skip Gas Tank Skid, Magnaflow Overland cat back
I believe the OEM pads come with a little packet of grease that is spread out under the shims that you should have got with them. Don't grease any exposed brake hardware, it just gets caked full of brake dust and road dirt. There is no need to grease or apply anti-squeal stuff to the back of the pads, that's what the shims are for. The disc brake caliper lube is for semi-floating calipers with sealed guide pins. The orange disc brake anti-squeal is for the old metal backed, riveted pads that didn't come with any shims or coating on them.
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98 SR5 4X4 5spd, desert dune metallic, Toytech Eibach 3" lift, 1" body lift, RAD Rubber Designs splash guards, 4XInnovations bumpers, Doug Thorely Headers, Magna-flow converter, JBA muffler & tail pipe, RCI skid plate, SPC UCA's & rear LCA's, front sway bar links on rear, gen II rear links on front, Tundra brakes, '02 headlights, tail lights & sidemarkers, BFG 255/85R16 Mud Terrain T/A's 241,000 miles.
Thanks - interesting that the caliper bolts have a higher torque than lug nuts
Too much torque will crack the aluminum rim at the hole.
A dealership cracked a AR39 rim I had on my Cummins from too much torque. I didn’t catch it until I put new tires on it and when we were balancing it required way more balance weights. Then John and I seen a crack from the center to the lug stud hole.
Edit. But that’s what I torque my wheels. 90-100.
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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 03-28-2020 at 10:43 AM.
I believe the OEM pads come with a little packet of grease that is spread out under the shims that you should have got with them. Don't grease any exposed brake hardware, it just gets caked full of brake dust and road dirt. There is no need to grease or apply anti-squeal stuff to the back of the pads, that's what the shims are for. The disc brake caliper lube is for semi-floating calipers with sealed guide pins. The orange disc brake anti-squeal is for the old metal backed, riveted pads that didn't come with any shims or coating on them.
You are correct that the OEM pads come with a grease packet and it's for the shims. You're suppose to spread it on both sides of the slotted anti-squeal shim. People who have gone with aftermarket pads make the mistake of discarding the anti-squeal shims. These shims could be reused for the life of the vehicle provided they don't get destroyed from rust.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Not to difficult. Took a little over 2 hours. One or two comments
1. Yep the factory shims come with grease but don't count on having any left. I bought new shims
2. The outer pads are actually labled Left and Right on the back. I just happened to notice this.
3. Lug nut torque - owners manual says 83 but my Toyota FSM says 76 - went with 83.
Only issue was it took forever to get the top caliper bolt back in the hole on left side. I had the bottom one in and it would not "find" the top hole by pivoting. Spent probably 15 minutes screwing with this issue.
Not to difficult. Took a little over 2 hours. One or two comments
1. Yep the factory shims come with grease but don't count on having any left. I bought new shims
2. The outer pads are actually labled Left and Right on the back. I just happened to notice this.
3. Lug nut torque - owners manual says 83 but my Toyota FSM says 76 - went with 83.
Only issue was it took forever to get the top caliper bolt back in the hole on left side. I had the bottom one in and it would not "find" the top hole by pivoting. Spent probably 15 minutes screwing with this issue.
Good job gettin er dun.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
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