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Old 03-31-2020, 04:15 PM #1
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Heater Control Valve

Searched the forums for a heater control valve DIY but can’t find anything. Anyone done it before?

Have to replace mine along with leaking hoses that attach to it. Do I have to drain the radiator first and then refill? Or bleed the system after?

Last edited by la79; 04-01-2020 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 03-31-2020, 04:33 PM #2
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I've done extensive research on this and there's no custom setups out there that retain factory functions.

As for changing it out, no need to drain the rad. Just clamp off the hoses so fluid is retained within the lines. Any fluid beyond where you clamped will obviously be lost.

Probably wise to get one of those spill free funnels that you can clamp to the top of the radiator to add a bunch of fluid at once and run the vehicle. This will help get air pockets out.

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Old 03-31-2020, 04:40 PM #3
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Cool thanks for the tips. Been meaning to do this for awhile and now have the time.
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Old 03-31-2020, 04:44 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by la79 View Post
Searched the forums for a heater control valve DIY but canít find anything. Anyone done it before?

Have to replace mine along with leaking hoses that attach to it. Do I have to drain the radiator th Luis first and then refill? Or bleed the system after?
it is fairly simple. don't have to drain the radiator but once done burp the system.
here is a video of a t100 but the process is the same
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4Xyf1Wmwlk&feature=youtu.be

So Who's had To Replace Their Heater Control Valve?
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Old 03-31-2020, 05:47 PM #5
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I had to replace my last year - it was leaking out through the valve packing.

I found an OEM Toyota valve (87240-35050) online for $35. From the dealership they're usually around $100 or so.

It's easy to change, as it's pretty much the highest point in the cooling system. Very little coolant will spill out if you're careful.
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Old 04-01-2020, 08:26 AM #6
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I strongly suggest you buy an OEM heater valve. I wen't through 2 or 3 aftermarket parts and they all leaked within a few months until I finally bit the bullet and bought an OEM one. There is only one 10mm bolt holding it to the fire wall. Once it is removed, you can undo the cable and the hose clamps. It took me 15 minutes to replace it so it's a pretty easy/straight forward job.

Cheapest place I could find the valve was on partsouq.com

I want to say it was $60ish bucks including shipping.
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Old 04-01-2020, 09:54 AM #7
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OEM valve is the only way to go for these. Also, if you have a body lift, see my fun experience here:

Coolant valve broke / engine overheat

cliff-notes is add a drop bracket so you don't put any strain on the plastic hose ends.
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Old 04-01-2020, 12:35 PM #8
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Ok so I called a dealership to get correct parts and was given also given part numbers for two hoses that come off of the valve. However when I look at my valve in my truck it doesnít look like the parts diagram? Mine has two hoses that come off but on the right it splits and there is a ďTĒ connection.

My truck is a 96 and has a rear heater. So Iím wondering if they changed the hoses after that year?
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Old 04-01-2020, 02:37 PM #9
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You need part# 87240-35050 (used through 98). They probably gave you 35070, which works from 99 through 02.

There is a thread here which tells the differences but it has to be five years or older. The OP ran into the same problem.
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Old 04-01-2020, 09:23 PM #10
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Thanks for the help everyone. I did some more searching to confirm parts and part numbers:

What other hoses should I replace?

heater hoses

Please Help With Heater Line Part Numbers

Hopes this helps others.
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Old 04-01-2020, 10:45 PM #11
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