front dig sounds nice

Marlin is selling the Lefty for the first time ever, I think.

The Inchworm Lefty takes a geared transfer case and makes it a DSD instead of a PSD; so you have your option on running the stock 2.28:1 low ratio, or a 4.7:1 low ratio.

Also; ‘stronger’ than a chain case (from what I’ve read), so adding a doubler is better with this set-up.

Those adapter plates you linked are going to keep the gear case PSD; which won’t work for a 3rd Gen, but other set-ups like you mentioned.


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So it appears this has never manifested? I'm mostly out of the loop but still on the search for a Lefty tcase. Nothing ever shows up in the MN area used so I've been holding out hope for new stuff.

Apparently not.

I got lucky with my lefty; just need to find time to finish my truck and actually install it.


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A few years ago I was set buying a lefty (see my posts on the first page), but if there’s anything I’ve learned in the last few years it is to not count on Marlin Crawler to meet their promises. I ended up getting a NWF Eco-Crawler VF2A/VF2A (which came out recently and is better in nearly every way).

Very nice just looked it up. Did you use your stock case behind that?

Another happy NWF Eco crawler user here.

You get a very easy to find donor case for the gears that go in the NWF case, and then you have to take yours completely apart (even more apart than the middle donor case) and install a new input shaft.

I got their triple stick kit as well. I have a manual trans and the doubler has been AWESOME on tougher obstacles. Both going up and down - you can just idle down big ledges and not even touch the brakes.

I used to have a multimode case, I ended up getting rid of that and building the eco crawler and t-case out of 2 junkyard j-shift cases. Like @JohnMc said the junkyard chain drive cases are plentiful (got both of mine for under $100/ea.)

@JohnMc I have the same exact setup as you. Have you found a clean boot solution for triple shifters?

I took the original manual trans boot and cut out the spot where the single J-shifter was, and then went to a local Pick-n-pull junkyard and wandered around looking for something suitable. And found a little boot on a Chevy Impala of a certain year and configuration (not a bench seat) and to 3 decent looking ones. Then trimmed them a bit and sewed them together into a glove (cow udder? lol) looking monstrosity.

I chopped a hole in a big sponge and set that on top of the trans under the sheetmetal as a sound/air insulation layer, I'm forgetting exactly what I did for the rubber shifter boot under that, IIRC just trimmed the hole bigger, and then stuck the quad-franken-boot on top of that.

Any issues getting the transfer cases to seal completely?

Mine has a little oil on the outside after a year and a bit (and two long CO/UT road wheeling trips). I'm not entirely sure where it's coming from, it seems like the top somewhere. Maybe a little oil of of the breather or shifter housings? But it isn't really going through much oil.

I got everything shiny and clean and dry (used rubbing alcohol to remove all traces of oil from the mating surfaces) and then user Toyota FPIG when installing the rear section of the case onto the rear transfer case. And didn't have any issues with the big o-ring that seals the two halves of the NWF case together.

Good to hear that yours is sealed well. I can't remember where I read it, but someone had trouble getting theirs to seal correctly between the two cases. There aren't many people giving feedback on this setup.

Now that you have a doubler would you still run your current gear ratio with your current tire size?

Mine originally had 4.10 gears, that's what Toyota put on factory 5-spd e-locker vehicles I guess. My wife's 5-spd non-locker had 4.30 gearing. At some point my original diff got a little noisy (pinion bearings were whining, not growling, but why wait) and I swapped to 4.30 since that's far easier to find in a junkyard.

It's on 33'a now (pizza cutter sized 255/85/16 KM3's) and has plenty of added weight (armor underneath, sliders, bumpers, winch, etc) and really, the acceleration in top gear was getting pretty minimal. So when I put a front locker in it I took the opportunity to swap the rear diff too and went to 4.88 gearing. Which makes it more driveable on the road. You don't really want to go much past 75 mph, but it wasn't happy going that fast with the 4.30 gearing either.

So the gearing was more for on road than off road. And I'm sure I'm in a different gear in low or low/low range when off road with the 4.88's vs the 4.30's, but rally, with the gearing so low, it probably doesn't really make much of a noticeable difference.

Mine has a very small oil leak as well (I think it's at the o-ring but it's hard to tell). It's a small enough leak to where it doesn't drip, but the underside of the doubler get's a little wet, I don't worry about it.

Mine had 4.30 gears with 295s and a 5-speed, the gearing felt really good, no need to be any lower. It'll soon be on 40s with 5.38 gears so we'll see how that feels. I'm not too worried about the strength of the t-case at this point on tons and 40s, like I said these chain drive cases are cheap and plentiful. But if I do find myself breaking them more than I'd like to then I'll consider switching to a NP205 / Flipped Dana 300 / Atlas (and that's the nice thing about the NWF cases is they can adapt to whatever t-case you have in the back, just switch out the back half of the doubler).

it will b interesting when long term reliability of the NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler can b had, with its relative short time on the market vs others not sure about them yet.... but seems to b a good option so far.