04-08-2020, 03:13 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Austin,Tx.
Age: 70
Posts: 34
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Austin,Tx.
Age: 70
Posts: 34
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3rd gen. Cam pulley bolts
Hello all, I’m doing a timing belt job on my ‘98 3.4.
Just replaced crank seal & tried to remove cam pulley bolts which didn’t readily loosen, didn’t want to force until asking if maybe they are left
Hand threads? I’m assuming they’re right hand threads as my Haynes manual doesn’t indicate any otherwise.
Thanks!!
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1995 3.0,Limited,4x4,auto,bone stock
1998 3.4 Limited 2x4,auto, bone stock
2008 4.0 SR5 2x4,auto, bone stock
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04-08-2020, 03:16 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Western CO
Posts: 1,227
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Western CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4xt4r
Hello all, I’m doing a timing belt job on my ‘98 3.4.
Just replaced crank seal & tried to remove cam pulley bolts which didn’t readily loosen, didn’t want to force until asking if maybe they are left
Hand threads? I’m assuming they’re right hand threads as my Haynes manual doesn’t indicate any otherwise.
Thanks!!
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Standard threads - impact gun makes quick work of them.
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04-08-2020, 03:24 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Birmingham, AL
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Junior Member
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Location: Birmingham, AL
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regular right hand threads
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04-08-2020, 03:46 PM
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#4
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
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Elite Member
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Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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They are difficult to remove with a normal socket wrench, or even a breaker bar for that matter. It will cause the crankshaft to turn and all the pulleys with it. An impact gun or air tools will do the trick much, much easier. If that's not an option, put a cheater bar on a 2 foot breaker or buy a 3 foot breaker bar and very quickly and sharply try and break the bolt loose. It will work of the bolts were not over-torqued the last time they were put in.
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04-08-2020, 04:42 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
They are difficult to remove with a normal socket wrench, or even a breaker bar for that matter. It will cause the crankshaft to turn and all the pulleys with it. An impact gun or air tools will do the trick much, much easier. If that's not an option, put a cheater bar on a 2 foot breaker or buy a 3 foot breaker bar and very quickly and sharply try and break the bolt loose. It will work of the bolts were not over-torqued the last time they were put in.
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That's good advice, just be careful of the fender and your elbow if using a 2 foot or less breaker bar. Ask me how I know. And same thing on both sides. Don't ask me how I know.
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"Bettie" - 1998 4runner LTD E-Locker Evergreen Pearl 275K+, Alpine HU, Infinity Reference Speakers, Airraid MIT, B&M Cooler, Light Racing UCA, RCI skids, Bilstein Tundra 5100 and 4runner Eibach Coils in front/ Bilstein FJ 5100 and OME 890 rear, LC80 wheels wrapped with MT Baja ATZ 285/75/16, 99+ overhead console, 99+ center console, sound-deadening, Ditch lights
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04-08-2020, 05:45 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
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You'll need some way of holding the cam pulleys when re-installing to be able to torque them to spec. I made a simple tool out of some steel bar and some grade 8 bolts/nuts spaced out to fit between the "spokes" of the pulleys.
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04-08-2020, 06:53 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper
You'll need some way of holding the cam pulleys when re-installing to be able to torque them to spec. I made a simple tool out of some steel bar and some grade 8 bolts/nuts spaced out to fit between the "spokes" of the pulleys.
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Thats basically what most mechanics use, this tool. Then a long breaker bar or pipe over my ratchet.
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04-08-2020, 09:56 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Trying to figure this out
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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I very seldom use that tool but, I'm glad I have one when I have to loosen cam bolts.
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