It seems like they just hook this up to our dipstick tube line (and our battery) and do the full exchange from there while the engine is turned off.
Halfway through, they have you start your engine, go through the gears from Park all the way down and back up, 5 secs each.
Is this good or safe for our vehicle for those of us that doesn't want to do just a drain/fill but want a full flush?
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2001 Toyota 4Runner Limited. 231k miles.
You don't need a machine to do a full flush. You just need someone to help you out and you can do it utilizing the transmission pump to move the fluid for you.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
You don't need a machine to do a full flush. You just need someone to help you out and you can do it utilizing the transmission pump to move the fluid for you.
Hey Tim, I get that and that's probably the best route, but just wondering for those that don't wanna do it themselves, is this a safe service/process?
I believe this is something the valvoline shops have available.
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2001 Toyota 4Runner Limited. 231k miles.
Hey Tim, I get that and that's probably the best route, but just wondering for those that don't wanna do it themselves, is this a safe service/process?
I believe this is something the valvoline shops have available.
I don't think they are a good idea. If the fluid pressure the machine exerts is more than what the trans pump normally exerts, it could free up sludge deposits inside the trans and possibly lodge in fluid passageways in the valve body causing issues. I'd much rather do it the manual method we show in the video.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I don't think they are a good idea. If the fluid pressure the machine exerts is more than what the trans pump normally exerts, it could free up sludge deposits inside the trans and possibly lodge in fluid passageways in the valve body causing issues. I'd much rather do it the manual method we show in the video.
Just to add more information.
We did a power flush in my rig a while back. I'll have to see if they know how much pressure it uses. It seemed to be a very slow process and used about 16 quarts if I remember correctly. I also had them replace the filter since we were dropping the pan anyway. (To inspect)
They said the old fluid was dark, definitely old, but it was not extremely nasty and they saw no crud. So either it didn't have any crud or the machine was gentle, haha.
I guess it depends on the condition of the fluid and discs.
I personally would never pressure flush a transmission. Tim has an excellent video on the subject. I use a pump and two buckets when I change mine. The buckets are opaque and graduated so I know how much comes out and how much goes in.
It seems like they just hook this up to our dipstick tube line (and our battery) and do the full exchange from there while the engine is turned off.
Halfway through, they have you start your engine, go through the gears from Park all the way down and back up, 5 secs each.
Is this good or safe for our vehicle for those of us that doesn't want to do just a drain/fill but want a full flush?
I used to work on those types of machines in another life. They were just coming out when I got out of that field. They are pretty slick machines. They use no pressure at all. The one I saw had a dual tube assembly that went into the fill tube and sucked it empty (engine not running) The fluid is measured by pressure differential or some even used capacitance probes. Once it sees no more liquid coming out it than refills through the other tube using a pump. Then the engine is started and it, qt for qt, matches what it is sucking out and is putting back in until it uses the amount of tranny fluid you set. Unfortunately, this method has more dilution, which is not a full exchange or "flush" as you stated. It is the fastest setup though. The newer ones can hook to cooler lines or dipstick or both I believe. That picture has cooler adapter fittings so it must have modes to hook to the cooler. Going through the cooler is much more effective in getting all the fluid out, again, with no pressure. I am a believer in full fluid exchanges. Some report that after doing some of the "flushes" they had tranny failure, so either that tranny was poorly maintained or abused or the flush machine was a power flush machine which is more likely to cause pump failure in the tranny or the machine itself was improperly operated or calibrated.
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SILVER 2000 4runner Limited TOTALED
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I take all my vehicles to shops with trans flush machines, since the 80's, zero issues in any of them.
They hook up to the trans out/in lines not the dipstick.
Therefore the machine provides zero pressure, it is relying on the trans pump entirely. Sort of slow but 20 mins later, flowing clear red...ahhhh....
Don't be afraid of modern science mang!
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
Same use the experts and save time and money, afterall you don't do it that often
I thought I knew what I was talking about with these machines but obviously I was mistaken.
Now, as for saving time and money taking it to a shop. I call bullshit on that. How much time do you burn driving over to the dealership or whatever other shop you take your rig to, have them give you a ride home with their shuttle service or you take an Uber. Then you have to get back to the shop somehow to pick up your rig. Now, if the shop is dialed and they get your vehicle into the service bay lickity split and get a tech on it, i'd say you're still burning at least 30-45 minutes there but my guess would be more. Then you have to part with whatever hard earned cash they charge for this service.
If you do it on your own, you jack up the front end, remove the front skid plate, remove the return line to the trans cooler, you put on another hose going into a graduated container and you get someone to start and stop the engine for you as your drain a quart and fill a quart until your fluid is looking all purty red. Easy! You didn't have to drive anywhere. You didn't have to get a ride home or hang out in some lame waiting room with a bunch of other people staring like zombies at their smart phones. If a buddy helped you, it's an excuse to go get a beer and talk about Sic Mods. Win, Win. You saved time and money.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I just talked to a Valvoline tech and they don't even have to have me on the bay. I can just park on the lot, they roll up this machine, and it goes through the dipstick tube (if you have one - and our trucks do) and that's it.
From there it seems like it drains and fills from 1 line that splits into 2 that's connected to the machine that has 2 canisters inside for the old fluid and the new fluid. They can do up to like 32 quarts in 1 run.
He explained that for the first 8 quarts, they have the machine do it while the engine is off. Then halfway done, they will have you start the car, go through from P to L, and then back up to Park, waiting 5 secs each shift.
And as far as the "pressure" they said that was real old technology. These new ones go slow and just the right pressure or even less to where it should not harm your transmission. If it does, then your fluid must be like really dark instead of the pink/red ish color.
The whole process for our trucks he said will only take like 20-30 mins. It's not that long at all. Cost for valvoline max full synthetic is $140 with the discount that they offer you right away. Normal is like $169.99. And he recommended every 30k miles.
After some of your feedback I might go this route.
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2001 Toyota 4Runner Limited. 231k miles.
I thought I knew what I was talking about with these machines but obviously I was mistaken.
Now, as for saving time and money taking it to a shop. I call bullshit on that. How much time do you burn driving over to the dealership or whatever other shop you take your rig to, have them give you a ride home with their shuttle service or you take an Uber. Then you have to get back to the shop somehow to pick up your rig. Now, if the shop is dialed and they get your vehicle into the service bay lickity split and get a tech on it, i'd say you're still burning at least 30-45 minutes there but my guess would be more. Then you have to part with whatever hard earned cash they charge for this service.
If you do it on your own, you jack up the front end, remove the front skid plate, remove the return line to the trans cooler, you put on another hose going into a graduated container and you get someone to start and stop the engine for you as your drain a quart and fill a quart until your fluid is looking all purty red. Easy! You didn't have to drive anywhere. You didn't have to get a ride home or hang out in some lame waiting room with a bunch of other people staring like zombies at their smart phones. If a buddy helped you, it's an excuse to go get a beer and talk about Sic Mods. Win, Win. You saved time and money.
not sure what place you go to but I drive up pay 85.00 sit in my car, the owner Walt comes over, we chat
Sports in my car and approximately 20 mins later I leave. 115.00 that I pay every few years I'm ok with. My oil at the same place takes less time and is approximately half the cost. Not worth my time or energy to do this myself...PERIOD.
Last edited by Thebeastlives; 04-24-2020 at 09:31 PM.
Reason: Check my price
not sure what place you go to but I drive up pay 85.00 sit in my car, the owner Walt comes over, we chat
Sports in my car and approximately 20 mins later I leave. 115.00 that I pay every few years I'm ok with. My oil at the same place takes less time and is approximately half the cost. Not worth my time or energy to do this myself...PERIOD.
That's pretty quick I'd have to say and not a bad price. But, I like doing my own work so I reckon to each his own.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I myself, like to clean my magnets in the pan and replace the filter when I exchange mine. I drain a gallon out then change and clean those magnets replace the filter.
Then dump a gallon of fresh fluid through that atf cooler return line via a simple oil pump. Once thats completed.
I dump 3 gallons of fluid in my pump clean oil bucket that is hooked to my atf cooler return line. Then hook the other side of the open return line to my used oil bucket. Fire up my rig. As it pumping the old fluid into the waste bucket. I am pumping new fluid into the return line.
By using opaque graduated buckets. I know exactly how much goes out and how much goes in.
When the fluid goes new fluid color the exchange is complete.
Hook the line back up to my cooler and verify the level.
I have a neoprene gasket on my pan so all this cost me is the fluid and a new atf filter and probably less then an hour of time.
I dont see how the flush machines are going to clean your pan magnets and replace your filter screen.
As those magnets pick up the metallic ferrous debris and these screen filters get plugged with sediment non ferrous debris as well..
What bakes the transmissions is not only poor fluid quality but insufficient fluid flow
This is why I do it this way as this has nothing to do with not using technical machines at all. It has to do with doing a better job.
A swap of fluid is better then nothing as thats mostly all those machines do.
If that's all you want to do. That's probably your ticket. I just like to a thorough job.
Whatever works best for the owner of the rigs as I just figured an explanation as to why it's done this way may some folks understand why.
You're right, it's no use if magnets aren't being cleaned and the filter doesn't get changed. thanks for all the information everyone! Maybe I'll just do a combination lol
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2001 Toyota 4Runner Limited. 231k miles.