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Old 09-25-2020, 06:22 PM #256
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Hoping to install my kit here eventually. A family member has been driving it, so I'm just waiting to get it back in my possession once their car is fixed.
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Old 09-26-2020, 01:06 AM #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexassian View Post
you shouldn't need a proportioning valve with ABS, that's why our runners didn't come with one unless you have the non-rear-ABS axle (or Tacoma). I plan to run a residual valve if the pedal feels squishy.

So where exactly would you put the residual valve. Really have zero knowledge of this at all.


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Old 09-26-2020, 03:29 PM #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grgg1978 View Post
So where exactly would you put the residual valve. Really have zero knowledge of this at all.


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Here's an example with instructions :

Residual Pressure Valve 2 lb. Valve | JEGS

It can be installed just before the t in the rear brake line or one each after the t. I'm not sure yet how much is needed, depends on your master cylinder and pedal feel.
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Old 10-01-2020, 09:36 PM #259
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Update for my 01-02 doods! A second brake bleed has my electronic booster running as it did before the swap!

I did some further inspection of the fsm for the 2001-2002 years. The ignition has to be in the “on” position when bleeding due to the electronic booster. I got so many tiny bubbles out of the rear passenger side on my second bleed that the fluid almost looked milky. It seems to have put me on the right track, the motor on the booster isn’t running nearly as frequently. Im going to do one more bleed and I think it should be perfect. I think the electronic booster was running more to try to accommodate the air that was still in the lines.

Just some food for though for the 2001-2002 guys who are doing the swap!
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Old 10-02-2020, 08:10 AM #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G’s_4runnah View Post
Update for my 01-02 doods! A second brake bleed has my electronic booster running as it did before the swap!...
Thanks been waiting to hear things.
01 brake system's suck monkey nads when it comes to bleeding without SST that fires each solenoid.
Was having problems getting pump to cycle correctly after two bleeds by the book, no bubbles at wheel's.
I made the ABS system function/fire the solenoids by using it, wet pavement did the trick, lock the brakes enough times to function each corner.
Bled again after sliding round parking lot zillion bubbles each corner.
My case worse case scenario, system capped but open at wheels for 3 months.
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Old 10-03-2020, 08:48 PM #261
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Question about the e-brake kit, what do I do with the end of the OEM cable that has the pivot link(not sure what to call it). Should I cut it off higher up the cable?
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Old 10-03-2020, 10:26 PM #262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexassian View Post
Question about the e-brake kit, what do I do with the end of the OEM cable that has the pivot link(not sure what to call it). Should I cut it off higher up the cable?
I cut above it. Ultimately you are cutting all but about 16 inches of the outer cable cover off by the end of the install.
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Old 10-07-2020, 09:45 PM #263
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halfway (?) through the install now. I offer this bit of advice, it was very difficult for me to drill the front two holes needed to mount the bracket, all of my drill bits wanted to walk on me due to the ridge in the body material. In the end, I had to drill the holes larger to position the screws to fit into the bracket. I would think it would be possible to move the two front mounting holes to a different spot, there's plenty of room on the bracket. Maybe longer screws to help with thread engagement while positioning the bracket? I'm not exactly sure but that spot is just not great for drilling.

to help get everything aligned, I loosened the couplers on the front screws and just barely put them through the bracket, no nuts yet. I think put the rear screws in about one or two threads at most. Once everything was aligned and where it needed to be, only then could I start to tighten the couplers, but still only just enough to get the nuts started, maybe 1 thread max, then go back and tighten the rear screws, but still not all the way, maybe 2/3s screwed in. Then go back and tighten the front couplers all the way, tightening the nuts until the nyloc touches the threads, that way you know those screws won't slip out of the bracket holes. Once you finish tightening the couplers, then unthread the nyloc nuts and add a washer, one at a time, and go ahead and torque them down snug. Then be sure to finish the rear screws and don't forget the washers back there too.

Probably every runner will be slightly different so this is not an easy problem to solve. @midcoma put together a fantastic kit at a great price so let's not loose sight of that.

Finally, if you have a body lift, you do no need to remove the driveshaft completely. I have a 1.5" body lift and was able to only disconnect from the axle, leaving the transfer case nuts attached, and just moved the driveshaft off to the side.

Good luck, I'm excited to be done this week and go wheeling again.
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Old 10-10-2020, 09:37 PM #264
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Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit

Well. Just finished with the disc brake install. I had a friend of mine that’s a mechanic do most of the work. Besides a possible leak from one of the new brake lines that came in the kit, everything installed as expected. There is a slight squishy feel to the pedal but that could be from the TBU or maybe when I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder a couple of years ago I didn’t do the install and gapping of the brake booster right. I will need to recheck all my old work to be sure.

Even though I might need more adjustments the brakes are better than what the drums provided in my opinion. Might need to adjust the handbrake a bit more otherwise I’m pretty satisfied as is.


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Last edited by Grgg1978; 10-11-2020 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 10-11-2020, 08:54 PM #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grgg1978 View Post
Well. Just finished with the disc brake install. I had a friend of mine that’s a mechanic do most of the work. Besides a possible leak from one of the new brake lines that came in the kit, everything installed as expected. There is a slight squishy feel to the pedal but that could be from the TBU or maybe when I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder a couple of years ago I didn’t do the install and gapping of the brake booster right. I will need to recheck all my old work to be sure.

Even though I might need more adjustments the brakes are better than what the drums provided in my opinion. Might need to adjust the handbrake a bit more otherwise I’m pretty satisfied as is.

What residual valve is that? I’m having a hard time finding a metric residual valve
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Old 10-12-2020, 08:40 PM #266
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I delayed my post for almost 3 weeks because I wanted to see how the brakes were holding up after a little time. This was the second install for me (helped G's_4Runna on his 2001)and the second time around was definitely easier. Not to mention we weren't dealing with the 2001's Evap cannister and associated hoses that occupy the tunnel.
I thought the kit was well thought out and had great instructions. Just getting the vehicle to the point of starting to install took awhile (removing drum brakes and cutting the drum backing plates off) We also had the benefit of a lift. Even with the lift it's a 7-9 hour job. I'm sure professionals wouldn't take that long but professionals we are not
After three weeks of driving (almost 700 miles) the brakes feel great! Slightly better feel than the drums but this is only seat of the pants testing, no before and after to compare.
Would I do this over again? Hell Yes!
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Old 10-17-2020, 01:31 AM #267
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Would love to get some rear conversion brackets and possibly e-brake kit...
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Old 10-17-2020, 10:08 AM #268
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This was one hell of a planned out kit. Will definitely be doing this to all my 3rd gens I’ll ever own. Very well planned out and semi easy to install. 2 things. 1. Make sure your calipers have banjo bolts or order a set, glad the auto part store had them. 2. Make sure that the valve you buy, if you need it, for the brakes has a male end and female, hardware store for the save for me. Had another issue that was resolved pretty quickly. Would totally recommend for anyone that hates drum brakes or wants a legit kit to upgrade your brakes.


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Old 10-20-2020, 09:30 AM #269
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I have a question I have finally sorted the 2004 svt cobra rear calipers... I noticed it states any rotors from 2003 4runner or newer now my questions is .. do I need the 319mm 12.56 inch rotors or the 338mm 13.31 inch rotors what will work best with the svt cobra calipers and brackets?
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Old 10-20-2020, 09:50 AM #270
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Quote:
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I have a question I have finally sorted the 2004 svt cobra rear calipers... I noticed it states any rotors from 2003 4runner or newer now my questions is .. do I need the 319mm 12.56 inch rotors or the 338mm 13.31 inch rotors what will work best with the svt cobra calipers and brackets?
You need 4th gen rear rotors. Says so in the 1st post here. The rears only came in one size as far as I know. 312 mm if I remember correctly.
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