Maybe others plan to cut off the backing plate to avoid messing with the bearings.
Someone gets it. 5 minutes per side with a cut-off wheel and the backing plates are removed. So, unless you need new bearings there is no reason to press anything for this mod.
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Someone gets it. 5 minutes per side with a cut-off wheel and the backing plates are removed. So, unless you need new bearings there is no reason to press anything for this mod.
That’s what I plan to do, like I said before my backing plates are toast and replacing them properly would cost about as much as this disk conversion, so even if there is zero performance increase I’ll still be happy
Also give me an excuse to do the full abs delete while I’m at it instead of just having it disabled like I do now
I think this has been said in pieces and part thru-out but...
My main motivation was:
1. Rust belt had destroyed almost everything about the drum brakes including the lines.
2. Rear seals leaking and soaking everything inside the drums so I needed to do rear seals anyways.
I have to do everything anyways... so why not disc brakes?
In true SleepyDad fashion I went wayyyyy overboard. I kind of wish I had not started the entire endeavor but... in the end I'm glad I have disc brakes that work almost as good as the toyota OEM even if I can't lock'um up.
Had I not done all the work already I would totally be in for this kit.
because I'm from MN... if you have not already watched VGG? do yourself a favor and sit down and give this fine gentleman a watch. if your a DIY wrencher then this guy is for you.
because I'm from MN... if you have not already watched VGG? do yourself a favor and sit down and give this fine gentleman a watch. if your a DIY wrencher then this guy is for you.
surely that's not actual vernacular for MN?? I love it.
Just did a junkyard run and picked up a set of mustang calipers for 40 bucks (there are around 6 mustangs there), 7 bucks for a rebuild kit, 35 for the cobra caliper brackets, 18 bucks for pads, 30 bucks for 2 rotors. Thats around 130 for the parts. Add 320 for the parking brake and mount adapters. So around 450 for this conversion. That is cheaper then the TBU, and all 4 rotors and pads on my miata (I hate big brakes lol so expensive on the miata). For me that is 100% acceptable cost. And on top I need to do my bearings and seals as they are over 235k old lol. So kill 2 birds with one stone.
There is no kill like overkill.
But yeah, my car my choice, please stop telling me what to do to my truck. It gets on my nerves.
__________________ There's danger lurking around every corner, that's why I propose we make all of our buildings round.
I don't remember the time I was human that's why I don't understand anybody.
surely that's not actual vernacular for MN?? I love it.
once you hit the 20-30 mile mark out of town this is what you would expect. vernacular city.
His best vids are the ones where he takes a bus trip from MN to IL and attempts to drive a broken down free car back home. no plates or tabs. usually fixes it in the hotel parking lot and has wheels and tires delivered to said parking lot.
I have to give the guy credit he knows his carburetor-ed Americana. sets timing with a vac gauge and runs a fuel system from a spare gas can in the passenger seat. Props because he plays the part well and he's a lot smarter than he seems @ first.
once you hit the 20-30 mile mark out of town this is what you would expect. vernacular city.
His best vids are the ones where he takes a bus trip from MN to IL and attempts to drive a broken down free car back home. no plates or tabs. usually fixes it in the hotel parking lot and has wheels and tires delivered to said parking lot.
I have to give the guy credit he knows his carburetor-ed Americana. sets timing with a vac gauge and runs a fuel system from a spare gas can in the passenger seat. Props because he plays the part well and he's a lot smarter than he seems @ first.
If only I'd filmed when I bought a $400 truck off eBay in Boston, hitched a ride there, slept on a bench until the train station opened, got stopped by the MA cops for no tag, then drove it straight back to NC with a broken leaf spring when I was younger. Opportunity for fame missed, I guess?
Oh - and the rear wheel came off a week later while a friend was driving it, lol
Maybe others plan to cut off the backing plate to avoid messing with the bearings.
I don't recall seeing this but I may have missed it. What do you do with the backing plate? It's been a while since I've replaced my axle seals and wheel bearings, but I thought the wheel bearing is pressed into the backing plate to hold the axle housing side of the bearing. Is the seat a seperate piece from the backing plate? Is there an alternate part number we can use if we don't want to chop up the backing plate if it is all one piece?
I don't know where you got the ABS and 5 MPH figure from. I can tell you, for certain, that the ABS locks up going 1 MPH on steep descents. I thought about ripping it out all together it annoys me that much. Since going to 35's it's much less noticeable but still there.
When I get the time to do this I'll most likely just remove the ABS. Brake bias will be controlled with a manual proportioning valve. Then some line locks. Then a t-case brake as well as the parking brake. There's times wheeling in the steep when I need my rig to not move and having all that should make it happen. lol
That's good and bad news.
Many early ABS systems would stop working at very low speeds, and I consider the 4Runner ABS system 'early' (at least the '96-'00 system - three channel only!).
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
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I don't recall seeing this but I may have missed it. What do you do with the backing plate? It's been a while since I've replaced my axle seals and wheel bearings, but I thought the wheel bearing is pressed into the backing plate to hold the axle housing side of the bearing. Is the seat a seperate piece from the backing plate? Is there an alternate part number we can use if we don't want to chop up the backing plate if it is all one piece?
Excellent question. As from what I seen the backing plate has to be cut off around the 4 hub bolts for this to work.
I am sure a fabricated one could be made to take it place. I am betting folks are just chopping them off.
The backing plate is captive between the bearing case and the axle hub.
There are two general ways to remove it.
1. Press off the backing plate and bearing case assembly, then remove the bearing case from the backing plate. After the parts are separated, you reassemble everything without the backing plate. It would be best to replace the bearings and seals while you do this because you're already removing them and in case they are damaged during the process.
2. Remove the axle shaft assembly and press out the splined bolts attaching the backing plate to the bearing case. Then the backing plate can be cut off of the bearing case. Once the backing plate is removed, the axle assembly would be ready to reinstall without removing the bearings, sensor rotor, or bearing retainers.
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