halfway (?) through the install now. I offer this bit of advice, it was very difficult for me to drill the front two holes needed to mount the bracket, all of my drill bits wanted to walk on me due to the ridge in the body material. In the end, I had to drill the holes larger to position the screws to fit into the bracket. I would think it would be possible to move the two front mounting holes to a different spot, there's plenty of room on the bracket. Maybe longer screws to help with thread engagement while positioning the bracket? I'm not exactly sure but that spot is just not great for drilling.
to help get everything aligned, I loosened the couplers on the front screws and just barely put them through the bracket, no nuts yet. I think put the rear screws in about one or two threads at most. Once everything was aligned and where it needed to be, only then could I start to tighten the couplers, but still only just enough to get the nuts started, maybe 1 thread max, then go back and tighten the rear screws, but still not all the way, maybe 2/3s screwed in. Then go back and tighten the front couplers all the way, tightening the nuts until the nyloc touches the threads, that way you know those screws won't slip out of the bracket holes. Once you finish tightening the couplers, then unthread the nyloc nuts and add a washer, one at a time, and go ahead and torque them down snug. Then be sure to finish the rear screws and don't forget the washers back there too.
Probably every runner will be slightly different so this is not an easy problem to solve.
@
midcoma
put together a fantastic kit at a great price so let's not loose sight of that.
Finally, if you have a body lift, you do no need to remove the driveshaft completely. I have a 1.5" body lift and was able to only disconnect from the axle, leaving the transfer case nuts attached, and just moved the driveshaft off to the side.
Good luck, I'm excited to be done this week and go wheeling again.
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1999 SR5 V6 manual trans 4x4 - Lifted on 35's -
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