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Old 04-29-2020, 10:31 PM #1
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Why would I need a full size starting battery?

I want to do the dual battery tray set up but Im having a problem deciding on what battery to get. I want to do an ultracap bank with a SLA battery hybrid with a small flexi solarpanel on the hood for the starting battery. Any reason Id need a bigger full size battery? My thinking is reduce the size of the starting battery and in turn get a much bigger secondary battery.
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Old 04-29-2020, 11:52 PM #2
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Sounds reasonable. Probably only need 400-450 CCAs under 'normal' ambient temps. How much would that battery have?
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Old 04-30-2020, 12:49 AM #3
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Are you splitting off the cabin air fans and headlights so they don’t pull from the starting battery?
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Old 04-30-2020, 01:10 AM #4
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Sounds reasonable. Probably only need 400-450 CCAs under 'normal' ambient temps. How much would that battery have?
I tried to check compression on a 5VZ-FE out of the engine bay (so no tranmission) with a battery with 375 CCA. It could not turn over the engine in 90 degree weather. I'd shoot for at least 500.

Have you thought about just using a deep cycle battery like the Optima Yellow Tops? I have one now and absolutely love it, I just use it for my stereo for when the car is off. Starts strong even after discharging. Just be sure to also own an AGM battery charger for when you get home or else it'll slowly lose capacity.
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:57 AM #5
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I want to do the dual battery tray set up but Im having a problem deciding on what battery to get. I want to do an ultracap bank with a SLA battery hybrid with a small flexi solarpanel on the hood for the starting battery. Any reason Id need a bigger full size battery? My thinking is reduce the size of the starting battery and in turn get a much bigger secondary battery.
I know what you are chasing. I have a stock size starting battery and a trolling motor for my secondary battery. I get ~20 hours of fridge life with a large Dometic fridge and other accessories off and on. The trolling motor was an easy setup and is charged through a controller so when the motor is on the trolling motor gets charged.

Risking getting stuck in the back country with a battery that cannot start the rig is a real issue if you go too small. I would run the trolling motor secondary. They are purpose built for deep cycle and lots of amp hours.
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:00 AM #6
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In the process of doing the same thing. Installed a simple solenoid, triggered by a key on power source. That will feed juice to a fuse block in the back. I'll also attach a deep cycle battery to that to supply power to overnight loads, i.e. a fridge, minor device charging, disco ball for the campfire party, etc.

Not looking to shift any existing "car" loads over so the stock size battery for starting etc will be kept.

Make sure to fuse any runs from either battery.
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:42 AM #7
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The supercapacitor bank parallel with the small battery is what provides the cranking amps. I started and drove mine around on just the bank for a few days on a full load for a test. It passed wonderfully. Also ran it all on just the bank to see how long it would drain, did a constant crank test w/o starting, and it cranked for like 15 seconds, or longer, its been a while since ive done anything with my yota. Because I used a balance board, which was pointless on a 16v cap bank that doesnt charge past 13.8v, the bank would drain off way too quickly when the truck was sitting.

Once I remove that board the only drain will be from whatever in the yota when its off.
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Old 05-02-2020, 08:30 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tx_shooter View Post
I know what you are chasing. I have a stock size starting battery and a trolling motor for my secondary battery. I get ~20 hours of fridge life with a large Dometic fridge and other accessories off and on. The trolling motor was an easy setup and is charged through a controller so when the motor is on the trolling motor gets charged.

Risking getting stuck in the back country with a battery that cannot start the rig is a real issue if you go too small. I would run the trolling motor secondary. They are purpose built for deep cycle and lots of amp hours.
I also have a Dometic fridge, recently purchased. If you have details on your trolling motor set-up posted somewhere, can you direct me please? If in your build/fix thread, I'll read through it. Thanks.
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Old 05-03-2020, 12:02 AM #9
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But what if an EMP happens?
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Old 05-03-2020, 07:54 PM #10
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I also have a Dometic fridge, recently purchased. If you have details on your trolling motor set-up posted somewhere, can you direct me please? If in your build/fix thread, I'll read through it. Thanks.
Yes, my build thread has the basics. I will try to get some pics of my setup and specs to send over.
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Old 05-03-2020, 07:55 PM #11
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But what if an EMP happens?
Then we all have bigger problems.
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Old 05-03-2020, 08:38 PM #12
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Yes, my build thread has the basics. I will try to get some pics of my setup and specs to send over.
Left-off on page 10, and will resume soon. Thanks much!
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Old 05-04-2020, 01:45 AM #13
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But what if an EMP happens?
Then the super caps explode!!!
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Old 05-04-2020, 01:09 PM #14
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Not the same situation, at all, but I've been using teeny tiny batteries on a couple of my other cars.

An Odyssey PC680 on my 1963 Volvo. The battery is about 7X7X3, weighs about 15 lbs. Alike any AGM battery, it could be installed in any position. No issues at all with how it works, engine cranks normally, and while the old car doesn't use as much electricity as a newer one would, no issues at all.

And on my goofy 1993 Volvo - I have a Braille 14115. About 6X6X3.5, weighs about 11 1/2 lbs. This car has an LS engine swap - the Braille has no problem cranking that over.

The Braille just costs a bit more than the Odyssey.
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Old 05-04-2020, 03:27 PM #15
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Not the same situation, at all, but I've been using teeny tiny batteries on a couple of my other cars.

An Odyssey PC680 on my 1963 Volvo. The battery is about 7X7X3, weighs about 15 lbs. Alike any AGM battery, it could be installed in any position. No issues at all with how it works, engine cranks normally, and while the old car doesn't use as much electricity as a newer one would, no issues at all.

And on my goofy 1993 Volvo - I have a Braille 14115. About 6X6X3.5, weighs about 11 1/2 lbs. This car has an LS engine swap - the Braille has no problem cranking that over.

The Braille just costs a bit more than the Odyssey.
John, a nice reminder as I have have an SLA in MINI Cooper S, and it sounds like the same one as in your Volvo at 11.5 lbs and those dimensions. I'm quite sure I can fab a platform and mount for such in the driver side rear behind that panel, here removed...





Find a way to dual charge it via engine and solar and I'd be all set... Since that battery should be dead, I'm going to remove it from the MINI and use it for mock-up purposes. Thanks for chiming-in....
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