[JWaldz]

So this morning I was heading to work and noticed my steering was a little tight than usual. So I ditched off a side road before getting out of my neighborhood to do some further testing. When I turn, either directions, the truck kinda bounces and I can hear my mud tires grabbing the road a lot more. I got out and noticed my passenger cv axle was leaking. I immediately figured ok, well that could be it. I replaced the cv only to find it's still doing it. So on to steering rack. Both sides are ever so slightly leaking around the boot. Did the turn wheel test the best I could and didn't really notice any play. It moves just a tad but can't imagine that's causing what's happening. The best way I can describe it is if you've ever been in 4wd on the dry road and the tires up front grab more and it's a little more difficult to turn. The slight bounce or limp I cannot explain. I did test the 4wd and everything works fine.

So, my question is.. Do I replace the steering rack/bushings or do I need to look elsewhere?

Truck has 158k on it if that helps.

[cfranck1]

I kinda remember a few members had the steering becoming harder just before their lower ball joints let loose. Have you ever had them replaced??

Check this thread out

[PitbullRescuer]

A bad rack will bind up on you, especially when it's cold or if you're going lock to lock while not moving. It'll also whine and almost squeal if you hold it at one lick or the other. If you're seeing the rack move, most likely bad bushings. Could also be a bad guide in the rack.

[KMAYO]

Might talk to llennium i know he just did steering rack bushings not too long ago.

[1985taylor1925]

Ive changed my steering rack, rack bushings, and the guide all myself. And my symptoms were the opposite. Loose sloppy steering, knocking noises, etc . . . yours has completely different symptoms. But I guess it could be seizing as well. How is your power steering fluid? Is the pump working?

[hugo2go]

I'd suggest changing the rack bushings. Probably 2 hours at most to change, and a great improvement to the overall steering.

[TheDurk]

Please explain the '4WD test' you did. I wonder if you could be in 2WD at the TC but with the ADD stuck engaged. Have you put the rig in the air to spin each wheel and run the steering rack-to-rack? Wheels should be independent with the ADD disengaged. Sorry if you ruled this out already, but I'd still put it up in the air and play with it. It's not the rack bushings, although it probably needs it.

[PitbullRescuer]

Originally Posted by TheDurk

Please explain the '4WD test' you did. I wonder if you could be in 2WD at the TC but with the ADD stuck engaged. Have you put the rig in the air to spin each wheel and run the steering rack-to-rack? Wheels should be independent with the ADD disengaged. Sorry if you ruled this out already, but I'd still put it up in the air and play with it. It's not the rack bushings, although it probably needs it.

Durk, sorry if this obvious but what is ADD? Only reason I ask is that I'm starting to suspect that my poor gas mileage is driveline/drag/friction related as opposed to engine tune at this point. For the hell of it, I put mine in 4WD yesterday, drove about a block, put it in park, put the TC in Neutral, then back in High, turned the 4WD button off, then put it in drive and drove off. It seems to "roll" a lot easier now. (If that makes any sense at all.)

I have a '97 Limited if it makes a difference with what I wrote above.

[IanB]

Originally Posted by PitbullRescuer

Durk, sorry if this obvious but what is ADD?

"Automatic Disconnecting Differential (ADD): A 4WD system found on many Tacomas and 4Runners. Whereas traditional 4WD systems utilize manual locking hubs that must be locked by hand, the ADD system utilizes live hubs that are always locked. What this means is that even in 2WD, while moving, the driver-side and passenger-side axles and the differential are always spinning (the front drive shaft does not spin in 2WD). When in 2WD, although spinning, the driver-side axle is disconnected from the differential via a vacuum-actuated or electronically-actuated sleeve. When shifting the transfer case into 4WD, the front drive shaft is engaged, and the ADD actuator forces the sleeve toward the passenger side of the vehicle, effectively locking the splines of the driver-side axle with those of the differential."

[KidVermicious]

Originally Posted by TheDurk

Please explain the '4WD test' you did. I wonder if you could be in 2WD at the TC but with the ADD stuck engaged. Have you put the rig in the air to spin each wheel and run the steering rack-to-rack? Wheels should be independent with the ADD disengaged. Sorry if you ruled this out already, but I'd still put it up in the air and play with it. It's not the rack bushings, although it probably needs it.

Exactly what I was thinking - what the OP is describing sounds exactly like his rig is stuck in 4wd.

[JWaldz]

I ordered some rack bushings from wheelers along with sway bar bushing kit just cus I know it needs it. I haven't put it in the air although I do know, cus of changing the cv axle, that it spins freely. I just hate to replace the bushings only to find out the rack is bad, having to do it all over again.

Testing the 4wd was just my way of saying I tested each mode from multi mode to 4wd low and drove around to make sure nothing was binding up. I did this mainly because the problem feels like its stuck in 4wd but clearly it's not.

I'll toss both sides in the air when I get home from work and test it further. I just don't know what else it could be.

[PitbullRescuer]

Originally Posted by IanB

"Automatic Disconnecting Differential (ADD): A 4WD system found on many Tacomas and 4Runners. Whereas traditional 4WD systems utilize manual locking hubs that must be locked by hand, the ADD system utilizes live hubs that are always locked. What this means is that even in 2WD, while moving, the driver-side and passenger-side axles and the differential are always spinning (the front drive shaft does not spin in 2WD). When in 2WD, although spinning, the driver-side axle is disconnected from the differential via a vacuum-actuated or electronically-actuated sleeve. When shifting the transfer case into 4WD, the front drive shaft is engaged, and the ADD actuator forces the sleeve toward the passenger side of the vehicle, effectively locking the splines of the driver-side axle with those of the differential."

Ian, thank you. I think you may have just helped me solve my issue. Safe the assume that since the TC is in 2WD, the 4x4 dash light would not be on even if the ADD was engaged?

[IanB]

Originally Posted by PitbullRescuer

Ian, thank you. I think you may have just helped me solve my issue. Safe the assume that since the TC is in 2WD, the 4x4 dash light would not be on even if the ADD was engaged?

Ya, that sounds about right to me.

[TheDurk]

Originally Posted by ARKRWLR

I ordered some rack bushings from wheelers along with sway bar bushing kit just cus I know it needs it. I haven't put it in the air although I do know, cus of changing the cv axle, that it spins freely. I just hate to replace the bushings only to find out the rack is bad, having to do it all over again.

Testing the 4wd was just my way of saying I tested each mode from multi mode to 4wd low and drove around to make sure nothing was binding up. I did this mainly because the problem feels like its stuck in 4wd but clearly it's not.

I'll toss both sides in the air when I get home from work and test it further. I just don't know what else it could be.

Turn the front drive-shaft using your hand with the car on the ground in 2WD. It should rotate easily. If not, your ADD is still engaged and there is your problem.

If that is not it, get someone to work the wheel with the truck in the air while you eyeball the linkages, especially where you saw the oil. Something may be out of the correct geometry causing the wheels to fight each other on turns.

[JWaldz]

Originally Posted by TheDurk

Turn the front drive-shaft using your hand with the car on the ground in 2WD. It should rotate easily. If not, your ADD is still engaged and there is your problem.

If that is not it, get someone to work the wheel with the truck in the air while you eyeball the linkages, especially where you saw the oil. Something may be out of the correct geometry causing the wheels to fight each other on turns.

Thanks for the tips.. I'll definitely add it to the troubleshooting.