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Old 05-14-2020, 10:49 PM #16
nissanh nissanh is offline
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The aftermarket U-joints are mostly GMB and.... Just drive your OEM's as those are far superior even worn than a new GMB.

Phattyduck was right about the 2WD drive shafts. Those came without greasable joints and slides into the transmission as most 2WD rear wheel drive vehicles do.

Story about GMB:
I installed a GMB into the pinon end on front drive shaft on a solid axle 1990 hilux LN 106 (part time 4wd). It has may be tops 20 miles of 4WD. After a year that U-joint was almost about to disintegrate.

Last edited by nissanh; 05-14-2020 at 10:52 PM.
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Old 05-14-2020, 11:11 PM #17
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Let's weigh the driveshaft u-joint options

Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
All the 4WD keep forgetting (or never knew) that the SHAFT ITSELF, not just the u-joints on the 2WD can wear out. The center section of the shaft is two concentric tubes with rubber between them. The rubber wears out at some point and the shaft can no longer be balanced or used. No amount of u-joints can fix it once the rubber wears out.



Aftermarket replacement shafts are solid (no rubber to wear out). OEM would give the best NVH and performance long term. But they are more expensive... so that's a choice you have to make.



-Charlie

This is true. However, he was very clear on the 2wd being temporary. Seems foolish to me to invest in a temporary driveshaft for long term performance. But everyone is different.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nissanh View Post
The aftermarket U-joints are mostly GMB and.... Just drive your OEM's as those are far superior even worn than a new GMB.

Phattyduck was right about the 2WD drive shafts. Those came without greasable joints and slides into the transmission as most 2WD rear wheel drive vehicles do.

Story about GMB:
I installed a GMB into the pinon end on front drive shaft on a solid axle 1990 hilux LN 106 (part time 4wd). It has may be tops 20 miles of 4WD. After a year that U-joint was almost about to disintegrate.

Napa's website claims GMB is an OEM supplier. No idea if that's true, it's just what they claim. That being said, I've used the "brute force" u joints (napa heavy duty) many many times with great results. I think they are made by spicer which is a very old company that has been reputable for decades.

Again, all this repair is temporary as his 2wd is not long for this world. So again, why invest anything other than day-to-day unless the time frame for its lifespan is significant? I would replace the u joint with decently priced ones, and roll with it. Save the $400 for other 4wd conversion parts.

Edit: looks like "brute force" is a line from SKF which is a company I've had good luck with on other bearing items. But it not connected to spicer as I claimed earlier. Wanted to clarify
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Old 05-14-2020, 11:21 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Reak Show View Post
This is true. However, he was very clear on the 2wd being temporary. Seems foolish to me to invest in a temporary driveshaft for long term performance. But everyone is different.




Napa's website claims GMB is an OEM supplier. No idea if that's true, it's just what they claim. That being said, I've used the "brute force" u joints (napa heavy duty) many many times with great results. I think they are made by spicer which is a very old company that has been reputable for decades.

Again, all this repair is temporary as his 2wd is not long for this world. So again, why invest anything other than day-to-day unless the time frame for its lifespan is significant? I would replace the u joint with decently priced ones, and roll with it. Save the $400 for other 4wd conversion parts.

Just read this and agree. Just purchased 2 Spicer joints actually prior to reading it. Not bad price point. Swap the one I know is bad up front, when I pull it if the rear is bad I have one to swap there too...otherwise just keep stocking parts for the 4wd swap. Was going to skip OEM shafts for the conversion and jump to Tom Woods right off the bat for that anyways. I'll report back on the spicers once I do the repair. Hopefully this weekend.
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Old 05-15-2020, 02:27 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Reak Show View Post
This is true. However, he was very clear on the 2wd being temporary. Seems foolish to me to invest in a temporary driveshaft for long term performance. But everyone is different.
If the shaft is bad (not just the joints), the only two choices left are new shaft or don't drive...

I agree with putting in cheap (errr... non-OEM) for his purpose, as there is a reasonably high likelyhood of needing to replace the whole driveshaft soon even if he stays 2WD for another couple years.

-Charlie
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Old 05-17-2020, 08:22 PM #20
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I ended up finding a 2wd in junk yard this morning. 60 bucks for the driveshaft, still nice and black unlike mine. It was surface rusted from living near the ocean. U joints are solid on this thing and appear to be OEM. At least non greaseable like OEM u joints. Swapped it in and everything is nice and solid. Returning my 40 bucks a pop spicers. No play what so ever. Hopefully this cheap easy fix will hold out till the conversion...

Still have a slight vibration but. Definately not as violent as it as pre shaft swap. But while I was swapping my driveshaft I noticed a couple adhesive weights appear to be missing from my front drivers wheel. Getting wheels balanced tomorrow and hopefully all vibrations are resolved.
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Last edited by G_Raw; 05-17-2020 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 05-18-2020, 07:48 PM #21
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Shaft in all nice and snug, no play in u joints. Tires are balanced all notable sound and vibrations subsided. So now...
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Old 05-18-2020, 08:38 PM #22
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Glad you got it working!
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