Short story: My front u-joint gave out on me...and now im weighing out my options.
Long story: started getting a slight driveline vibration when releasing gas pedal at 60+ mph. This was months ago. This past month a rehearsed to 4.88. Shortly after the slight vibration turned to heavy vibration when driving at 70+. My thoughts were lift changed the angles and what not that the u joints had been sitting for decades. New gears added more stress to joints with the ability to turn wheels with more power. Sure carrier bearings improperly installed crossed my mind but and I was hopefully that the u joints might just need a regressing to relubricate but then I got under the truck and found this...
That's right front u joint seals are toast. I did pack with new grease knowing it would spray more but hopefully slow the progression until you folks chime in on my options as I see them.
Options:
1: replace front u joint only . OEM part cost $100
2: replace front and rear u joints...back one is likely to go out shortly although no play is noted. OEM part x2 cost $200
3: after market driveshaft replacement. Has both front and rear u joints replaced, also takes care of potential 2 piece coupler rubber seal that is also 20+ years old on current shaft. Labor to swap is easier, quality of parts may be unquestionable. Cost $330 - $400.
4: OEM drive shaft replacement. Same reasons as option 3 but takes away questionable parts. Cost $500. ( I know! Knot as pricey as you thought right!? Considering u joints from dealer are $100 each).
Now before you folks tell me $300 on Tom Woods and I'm good to go. His site specifically states he doesn't do 2wd drive shafts, which is what I need. And like an ass hole I still emailed to verify that he won't make it.
4wd conversion is in the works so the driveshaft will be obsolete at some point (
@phattyduck
situation haha, he knows what I'm talking about). I just don't have a timeline on when the conversion and part collecting will be complete.
So with that said. If you were in my boat, how would you proceed? No right or wrong answers just want to hear from the community to help weigh the options.
__________________ 99 Limited: 4wd conversion, OME 883/891, Built Right UCAs, Armored and winch up front, 285's with 4.88s and dual locked.
Are you sure the u-joint grease seals are toast? The splay of grease under the rig is normal to see from greasing the u-joints. The extra grease that squeezes out of the bearing cups gets flung out do to centrifugal force. Does the joint have detectable play?
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I had my local driveline shop replace my front u joint and rebalance for under $180 OTD on my 1996 2WD back in like 2013. I believe he used Spicer. I drove that truck until 2015 when I bought my current 2000 4wd T4R so it lasted me a couple years and was doing great when I sold the vehicle. Not the worst option if you don‘t want to do the work or swap with another used driveshaft that would last an unknown amount of time due to mileage. Lifted angles are not kind to the u joints.
Recently my double cardan on my 2000 4wd was making a ton of noise and vibes and since they’re not rebuildable, I replaced it with a Tom Woods for $500 OTD. If you’re doing a 4wd swap, it’s not the worst option since anything you get used is likely on borrowed time, again, due to the front u joint angle on a lifted rig.
__________________ 2000 Black Sport 4WD 5spd -JD Fabrication long travel/ Fox 2.5 8” RR/ Anonymous Fab lower uniball• McNeil Racing fenders • Toytec Superflex/ 5th gen Bilstein 5100/ Wheelers Superbumps • 315/70/17 BFG KO2 on Robby Gordon wheels • 231mm TBU / Wheelers SS lines • MStudt rear swaybar links • Tom Woods driveshaft • Satoshi • K&N FIPK w/ AFE dry filter • Borla Pro XS • URD short throw shifter & Ellis Precision shift knobs • Uniden PRO 520XL & 3' Firefly on custom mount• Prinsu full rack • Baja Designs Squadron Sport Sae & combo beam lights • Paranoid Fab switch panel with Ram mounts • Extended rear diff breather • 01-02 tail lights • Stubbs HD-SKO sliders • Any 7 Offroad gas tank skid • @Assburns custom tube front bumper • Nguyen Works swing out bumper • FROR rear links
Tim, OEM 2WD u-joints are sealed and 'maintenance free' - no grease zerks to be found. The shaft is a very different design than the 4WD one (no double cardan, slip yoke into trans, etc.).
If you do know that you are going 4WD in the near future, just get the u-joint replaced. It is maybe 50/50 that this will be good enough for a few years. The vibration you have gotten already may have worn out the rubber...
I ended up getting a whole new shaft (before the 4WD swap was planned) for ~$400 from a local shop (all new), then sold it used maybe 10k miles later for something like $200.
-Charlie
PS. The rear upper arms are different 4WD vs 2WD - if/when you do the swap, swap those arms too.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
Tim, OEM 2WD u-joints are sealed and 'maintenance free' - no grease zerks to be found. The shaft is a very different design than the 4WD one (no double cardan, slip yoke into trans, etc.).
If you do know that you are going 4WD in the near future, just get the u-joint replaced. It is maybe 50/50 that this will be good enough for a few years. The vibration you have gotten already may have worn out the rubber...
I ended up getting a whole new shaft (before the 4WD swap was planned) for ~$400 from a local shop (all new), then sold it used maybe 10k miles later for something like $200.
-Charlie
PS. The rear upper arms are different 4WD vs 2WD - if/when you do the swap, swap those arms too.
False. Both my front and rear have zeros. Which means they've been replaced by previous owner ( my in laws) with after market or OEM do have zerks... either way
@mtbtim
i do have play from the front but not rear.
__________________ 99 Limited: 4wd conversion, OME 883/891, Built Right UCAs, Armored and winch up front, 285's with 4.88s and dual locked.
False. Both my front and rear have zeros. Which means they've been replaced by previous owner ( my in laws) with after market or OEM do have zerks... either way
@mtbtim
i do have play from the front but not rear.
They were replaced then. Much more likely your driveshaft is toast then...
My original shaft had the u-joints replaced twice (when my dad still owned it), then was just relegated to around-town (under 50mph) use until I took ownership because of the vibrations.
-Charlie
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
They were replaced then. Much more likely your driveshaft is toast then...
My original shaft had the u-joints replaced twice (when my dad still owned it), then was just relegated to around-town (under 50mph) use until I took ownership because of the vibrations.
-Charlie
I guess now the question is. Since you've gone through this...OEM shaft? Or aftermarket? If so chime in on reputable after market ones to go with.
For those who come across this in the future with regard to Tom Woods drive shafts the deal breaker is if your vehicle uses a slip yoke. They need both sides to use a flange connection ( like 4wd) which is why they generally state they don't make 2wd ones. 2wd commonly use slip yikes at the front end.
__________________ 99 Limited: 4wd conversion, OME 883/891, Built Right UCAs, Armored and winch up front, 285's with 4.88s and dual locked.
[QUOTE=phattyduck;3488390]Tim, OEM 2WD u-joints are sealed and 'maintenance free' - no grease zerks to be found. The shaft is a very different design than the 4WD one (no double cardan, slip yoke into trans, etc.).
-Charlie
I did not know this. Interesting choice from Toyota.
OP, if the front u-joint has play, replace the u-joint and carry on. I personally like to go with Toyota OEM u-joints but there are good aftermarket options out there.
This video was done on the rear u-joint for a 4wd model but it will give you an idea of how to replace it yourself if you have the desire, space and tools to do it.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Hey G_Raw, that nice Sacramento Toyota yard is a short drive from where you are in Oakland. If can, you should just replace the 2wd shaft with a used unit from there. No must, no fust in R&R'ing a 2wd driveshaft. Go to go for a couple of years.
Or the cheapest option is to r&r the u-joint yourself. Not that bad of a job but, not as easy as just swapping out the shaft.
The best is to go with a rebuilt unit. But is some situations it's cost prohibitive.
I guess now the question is. Since you've gone through this...OEM shaft? Or aftermarket? If so chime in on reputable after market ones to go with.
That's highly personal, and really depends on how long you are going to be using the shaft.
If you are gambling man, get some NAPA u-joints and put 'em in there. And keep them greased from now on. If you still have vibes, you need a whole new shaft.
I just checked RockAuto - they have complete 2WD shafts available for around $350 shipped, so if you can't find a local shop to do it, they are still easily available.
I don't see a reason to go with an OEM shaft unless you are going to put another 200k miles on it. An aftermarket shaft will be solid and rebuildable.
-Charlie
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
That's highly personal, and really depends on how long you are going to be using the shaft.
If you are gambling man, get some NAPA u-joints and put 'em in there. And keep them greased from now on. If you still have vibes, you need a whole new shaft.
I just checked RockAuto - they have complete 2WD shafts available for around $350 shipped, so if you can't find a local shop to do it, they are still easily available.
I don't see a reason to go with an OEM shaft unless you are going to put another 200k miles on it. An aftermarket shaft will be solid and rebuildable.
-Charlie
Locally shops are selling at $430. Honestly anoth $70 won't brake the bank to go OEM. Same for rock auto 350 plus shipping totals $430ish. Same scenario. Thinking I'm going to go Napa feasible for $50ish for both joints. Hope they last till the conversion, if not next decision will depend on how much I have stock piled for the conversion.
__________________ 99 Limited: 4wd conversion, OME 883/891, Built Right UCAs, Armored and winch up front, 285's with 4.88s and dual locked.
Locally shops are selling at $430. Honestly anoth $70 won't brake the bank to go OEM. Same for rock auto 350 plus shipping totals $430ish. Same scenario. Thinking I'm going to go Napa feasible for $50ish for both joints. Hope they last till the conversion, if not next decision will depend on how much I have stock piled for the conversion.
I'm pretty sure there's a "heavy duty" napa version. They should be greasable as well which should aide in longevity. I would go that route. Even if it was $100 for the pair you could do the job 5 times before equaling an OEM driveshaft. And if they only last a year per set (which is terrible and unlikely, and they will likely last longer if installed correctly) that buys you at least 5 years before equaling an OEM driveshaft. Is the 4wd swap 5 years away? If so, then any route you take is monetarily similar long term.
__________________
The 4Reak Show: 1995 4Runner, 3.4 swapped, manual conversion, supercharged & 7th injected, Eaton TrueTrac in rear, poly bushings F&R, lots of other outrageous add ons...
Wife's: 2016 Trail Premium, bone stock until she joins T4R.org one day...
I don't know if the part numbers are the same but for my
2000 4WD I used Napa UJ285 ujoints that are made by SKF.
SKF makes a good product and they are $32 ea.
I expect I will never have to replace them.
__________________
2000 4runner 4wd Auto V6 - Tru-Cool LPD4454 trans cooler in series
1991 4runner 4wd Auto V6
1990 4runner 4wd Auto V6
And if they only last a year per set (which is terrible and unlikely, and they will likely last longer if installed correctly) that buys you at least 5 years before equaling an OEM driveshaft. Is the 4wd swap 5 years away? If so, then any route you take is monetarily similar long term.
All the 4WD keep forgetting (or never knew) that the SHAFT ITSELF, not just the u-joints on the 2WD can wear out. The center section of the shaft is two concentric tubes with rubber between them. The rubber wears out at some point and the shaft can no longer be balanced or used. No amount of u-joints can fix it once the rubber wears out.
Aftermarket replacement shafts are solid (no rubber to wear out). OEM would give the best NVH and performance long term. But they are more expensive... so that's a choice you have to make.
-Charlie
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT