05-13-2020, 05:01 PM
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#1
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Less clutch pedal effort desired
I have a LCE Dual comp clutch kit installed in my supercharged 5 speed swapped Runner.
Over time I have developed a problem (soreness and pain) with the bottom of my left foot due to operating my clutch pedal. Due to the area of the clutch pedal on my foot and the amount of force it takes to press it down.
The pressure plate that comes with the clutch disk is rated for 2100lbs of clamping force. This is much higher than stock.
At the time of the swap I wanted to get a Marlin but they weren't available at the time.
I have removed the return spring temporarily to see it if made a difference and it did not.
I was wondering if anyone knew of a smaller bore master cylinder I could use that would require less pedal effort????......
Thanks,
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02 SR5, manual hubs, 3” lift, airbags, 5-speed swap with locking center diff, 1st gen supercharger, URD 7th, BAMF sliders.
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05-13-2020, 05:58 PM
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#2
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The factory oem pig tail coil spring actually assists in pushing the clutch in. It lifts the pedal up in the up position but assists once you push the pedal down part way. It’s a cool piece of engineering.
If like me you have pulled it out for a linear spring you have more clutch effort than oem. The difference was very noticeable at the time of the switch.
Are you still using the oem pigtail coil spring? If not you could go back to it.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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05-13-2020, 07:10 PM
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#3
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Ah, modified clutch life... The only real way is to swap out the pressure plate to something closer to stock.
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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05-14-2020, 11:44 AM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
Ah, modified clutch life... The only real way is to swap out the pressure plate to something closer to stock.
-Charlie
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I was afraid of that. The manufacturer LCE claims it shouldn't be much stiffer than stock. Not true!
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02 SR5, manual hubs, 3” lift, airbags, 5-speed swap with locking center diff, 1st gen supercharger, URD 7th, BAMF sliders.
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05-14-2020, 12:03 PM
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#5
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These Aisin slave cylinders have a 13/16” bore.
You could probably swap in a 1” bore slave cylinder off a V8 Ford, Chevy, Dodge and gain some reduction in force required. That assumes the master will still move enough volume to move the slave enough to operate the clutch.
Would probably only take an easy to make adapter plate to mount the slave, and maybe an adapter or new hydraulic line to connect it up.
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Owned 82, 83, 87 pickup, 98, 99 SR5 4runner
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05-14-2020, 04:39 PM
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#6
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[QUOTE=Dieselchessy;3488964]These Aisin slave cylinders have a 13/16” bore.
You could probably swap in a 1” bore slave cylinder off a V8 Ford, Chevy, Dodge and gain some reduction in force required. That assumes the master will still move enough volume to move the slave enough to operate the clutch.
Would probably only take an easy to make adapter plate to mount the slave, and maybe an adapter or new hydraulic line to connect it up.
My understanding was the smaller the Master Cylinder, the less effort. But with that you are moving less fluid.
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02 SR5, manual hubs, 3” lift, airbags, 5-speed swap with locking center diff, 1st gen supercharger, URD 7th, BAMF sliders.
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05-14-2020, 05:00 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anniesball72
My understanding was the smaller the Master Cylinder, the less effort. But with that you are moving less fluid.
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Smaller master or larger slave would do the same thing. Yes, to get less effort, it will push less fluid at the same time. With incorrectly matched master/slave cylinders you might not be able to release the clutch.
Just as a note... you shouldn't be leaving your foot pressed on the clutch for more than a few seconds at a time. If you are stopped at light, the trans should be in neutral. If you are coasting, you should still be in gear (even when slowing down). And the force on your foot should be less than walking... Maybe stiffer soled footwear will help?
(My Alltrac has stiff clutch on it, and I most prefer to drive barefoot... but then again, I also run in those Vibram 5-finger toe shoes... )
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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05-15-2020, 03:52 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anniesball72
I have removed the return spring temporarily to see it if made a difference and it did not.
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What return spring are you using? If you can remove it temporarily it sounds like you have a linear spring like me. Trust me, having the OEM original set up will result in less pedal effort. It's been discussed here at length.
__________________
-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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05-15-2020, 06:57 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
What return spring are you using? If you can remove it temporarily it sounds like you have a linear spring like me. Trust me, having the OEM original set up will result in less pedal effort. It's been discussed here at length.
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Yes I have the linear spring. I put it on after the bushings in my V6 clutch return spring broke less than 5000 miles after installing.
I will put that spring back on. I do recall it did provide some assist now that you mention it.
Did you ruggedize the bushings or use something else in place of them? I've seen some threads show using machined bronze or brass....
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02 SR5, manual hubs, 3” lift, airbags, 5-speed swap with locking center diff, 1st gen supercharger, URD 7th, BAMF sliders.
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05-15-2020, 07:28 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anniesball72
Yes I have the linear spring. I put it on after the bushings in my V6 clutch return spring broke less than 5000 miles after installing.
I will put that spring back on. I do recall it did provide some assist now that you mention it.
Did you ruggedize the bushings or use something else in place of them? I've seen some threads show using machined bronze or brass....
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Mine has gone permanent linear spring. I got tired of replacing the bushings too. The 3rz might have a lighter clutch feel though, I don't mind it with the linear except occasionally in city traffic.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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