05-20-2020, 12:29 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith
what is the center to center dimension of the Panhard bar mount holes (axle to frame side) with the Panhard bar removed?
- repeat what you did: removing one end of the Panhard bar, lifting the truck, and allowing it to settle, then measure the distance between the holes.
Also, is there a chance some PO put a wheel spacer on the driver's rear to make the tires sit similarly in the wheel wells?
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I will do that when I get some time. I didn't think it was important but I will lift it up again and Messure with the bar removed.
I thought there might of been a spacer too but no there wasn't.
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02 T4R SR5 3.4L AT 215k - TJM Front Bumper - Coastal Offroad Rear Bumper - 914Z Ditch Lights w/ CBI brackets - Ebay Snorkel - Airaid MIT - Big 4 - B&M 70268 - Complete Suspension Rebuild - OME 881/906 Coils - OME 90004/60028 Shocks - ToyTec 1" BL - SS Diff Drop/Panhard Bar/Rear Body Mounts/Hi Lift Mount. Plus other stuff.
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05-20-2020, 12:37 PM
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#17
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a photo might be helpful.
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05-20-2020, 11:02 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith
a photo might be helpful.
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Not sure what photo would be helpful honestly. Here is a quick on I put together the other day. SS Panhard in at correct length. I can take more tomorrow. Had a late work day today and don't feel like crawling under it right now.
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02 T4R SR5 3.4L AT 215k - TJM Front Bumper - Coastal Offroad Rear Bumper - 914Z Ditch Lights w/ CBI brackets - Ebay Snorkel - Airaid MIT - Big 4 - B&M 70268 - Complete Suspension Rebuild - OME 881/906 Coils - OME 90004/60028 Shocks - ToyTec 1" BL - SS Diff Drop/Panhard Bar/Rear Body Mounts/Hi Lift Mount. Plus other stuff.
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05-21-2020, 01:17 AM
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#19
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We need a photo of the panhard mount on the axle, the panhard mount on the frame, and a wide angle overall look at the panhard bar.
About all I can think is that something is bent.
Your saying the stock bar has the axle to the drivers side and the SS bar also has it to the drivers side.
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05-21-2020, 09:30 AM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom8706
Yeah the ss panhard was just a tad longer than the stock one. I did follow his directions carefully and started at the one inch mark for best accuracy. It was pushing left with the stock panhard before hand.
I did mess around with it some yesterday. I unbolted frame end of the panhard, unbolted the sway bar and jacked the back end of the frame up. Both tires measured the same distance from the frame at that point. Lowered it back down slowly and the axle shifted back left some. I ended up man handling the rear axle and frame the best i could to align it. Well align the tires with the frame. I got it close but not spot on. I know that in order to get it as close as i did i had to make the ss panhard SHORTER than the stock panhard. I know something isnt right but i dont know what. Everything looked good to me..
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Do you know if it was in a previous accident? May be worth taking it to a body shop/frame shop to get it checked. How much shorter did you have to make the ss ph to get it closer to normal alignment? Anything underneath look bent or misaligned? Both brake drums, wheels, etc securely on?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom8706
Off topic: can you post some pics of your custom bolt on rock sliders? I'm going to be in the market for something like that after soon.
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Here are some pics.
Custom made bolt on rock sliders (no frame drilling)
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1. Black 2002 SR5 4x4 5vz: Front Toytec Ultimate coilovers/eibach 600#, SPC UCA, durobumps Rear Bil5100/Superflex, SS adjustable panhard, PCK, durobumps Body Lift 2" 4crawler Tires 315/75/16 BFG KO2 Wheels SCS F5 Matte black 16x8 3.5bs Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (no frame drilling)
2. Black 2001 SR5 4x4 5vz: stock
3. Black 2018 TRD Pro (wife’s): Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (U-bolts)
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05-22-2020, 11:57 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy
We need a photo of the panhard mount on the axle, the panhard mount on the frame, and a wide angle overall look at the panhard bar.
About all I can think is that something is bent.
Your saying the stock bar has the axle to the drivers side and the SS bar also has it to the drivers side.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourfive
Do you know if it was in a previous accident? May be worth taking it to a body shop/frame shop to get it checked. How much shorter did you have to make the ss ph to get it closer to normal alignment? Anything underneath look bent or misaligned? Both brake drums, wheels, etc securely on?
Here are some pics.
Custom made bolt on rock sliders (no frame drilling)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith
a photo might be helpful.
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Measurements might be off i had to solo this really quick.
Ok so the ss bar was at 36 15/16 inches and the drivers side tire was just barely out compared to the passenger. A quarter or a half of an inch less and it would of probably been centered enough not to notice.
Bar off and frame up axle bolt hole to frame bolt hole is 37 1/2. I tried adjusting the bar to this length and putting it on while in the air. Once i dropped it it was pushed to the left a good amount maybe almost an inch.
Took off the bar, raised it back up, dropped the frame down and the distance between the holes were 37 1/16. Which is still less than what i should have my bar at.
Now here is the thing. I started to do some frame to tire measurements. They were all the same on boths sides give or take 1/16th of an inch or so. So even though my tires were noticeably off they apparently were equal with the frame. So i started to take some body measurements and it doesnt seem to be centered on the frame. Seems like it is pushed to the right some. Not much maybe half an inch but that would be enough to make the difference.
I have the bar at 37 1/16 right now cause that where it centered itself at after i dropped it down. Havent drove it yet but will tomorrow.
If it is just the body is it as easy as unbolting some of the mount and shifting them over some? What should i try now? If i lift up the frame and adjust the bar to whatever it needs to be to fit at that point would that make the axle straight?
Thank you guys. Here are some random pics of the rear axle and what not. Sorry if they are no help I had a limited amount of time today and my mind is all over the place. Hopefully some of this made sense.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
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02 T4R SR5 3.4L AT 215k - TJM Front Bumper - Coastal Offroad Rear Bumper - 914Z Ditch Lights w/ CBI brackets - Ebay Snorkel - Airaid MIT - Big 4 - B&M 70268 - Complete Suspension Rebuild - OME 881/906 Coils - OME 90004/60028 Shocks - ToyTec 1" BL - SS Diff Drop/Panhard Bar/Rear Body Mounts/Hi Lift Mount. Plus other stuff.
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05-23-2020, 12:59 AM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom8706
Measurements might be off i had to solo this really quick.
Ok so the ss bar was at 36 15/16 inches and the drivers side tire was just barely out compared to the passenger. A quarter or a half of an inch less and it would of probably been centered enough not to notice.
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the stock panhard is 940mm center to center, so your SS is adjusted just fine. (36 15/16 = 938 and change)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom8706
Now here is the thing. I started to do some frame to tire measurements. They were all the same on boths sides give or take 1/16th of an inch or so. So even though my tires were noticeably off they apparently were equal with the frame. So i started to take some body measurements and it doesnt seem to be centered on the frame. Seems like it is pushed to the right some. Not much maybe half an inch but that would be enough to make the difference.
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Yeah this is more common than people think - I realized this when I started making rear bumpers; after all these years and wheeling these trucks, the body moves around. It can be even worse after a body lift if you didn't know to check for it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom8706
If it is just the body is it as easy as unbolting some of the mount and shifting them over some?
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yes.
I use a ratchet strap to slide the body over in a controlled fashion (more or less)
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Last edited by eimkeith; 05-23-2020 at 02:29 AM.
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05-23-2020, 02:07 AM
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#23
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You need extended rear brake lines. That stretch looks bad. Probably want an E-brake cable bracket as well.
Everything else in the pics looks normal to me.
Sounds like your body isn’t well centered or has been damaged.
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05-23-2020, 02:30 AM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy
You need extended rear brake lines. That stretch looks bad. Probably want an E-brake cable bracket as well.
Everything else in the pics looks normal to me.
Sounds like your body isn’t well centered or has been damaged.
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Are you an early riser, or insomnia?
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05-23-2020, 11:17 AM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith
the stock panhard is 940mm center to center, so your SS is adjusted just fine. (36 15/16 = 938 and change)
Yeah this is more common than people think - I realized this when I started making rear bumpers; after all these years and wheeling these trucks, the body moves around. It can be even worse after a body lift if you didn't know to check for it.
yes.
I use a ratchet strap to slide the body over in a controlled fashion (more or less)
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Thank you for the response. Is there a guide to show me how to do this? Would I have to lossen all the body mounts or just a few of the back ones?
If I recall correctly there are three on each side between the tires, one on each side behind the rear tires and I assume one or two up front yeah?
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02 T4R SR5 3.4L AT 215k - TJM Front Bumper - Coastal Offroad Rear Bumper - 914Z Ditch Lights w/ CBI brackets - Ebay Snorkel - Airaid MIT - Big 4 - B&M 70268 - Complete Suspension Rebuild - OME 881/906 Coils - OME 90004/60028 Shocks - ToyTec 1" BL - SS Diff Drop/Panhard Bar/Rear Body Mounts/Hi Lift Mount. Plus other stuff.
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05-23-2020, 11:58 AM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith
Are you an early riser, or insomnia?
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11pm on a Friday my time. I tend to go down 10-11 and rise 7 or so unless hunting or fishing.
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Owned 82, 83, 87 pickup, 98, 99 SR5 4runner
Currently own a 98 SR5, 5spd, 4x4, e-locker, no sunroof. 2012 LTD with the normal options.
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05-23-2020, 11:59 AM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy
You need extended rear brake lines. That stretch looks bad. Probably want an E-brake cable bracket as well.
Everything else in the pics looks normal to me.
Sounds like your body isn’t well centered or has been damaged.
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Oh really? I was told it wasn't necessary with my lift. I did have the e brake engaged while taking pics.
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02 T4R SR5 3.4L AT 215k - TJM Front Bumper - Coastal Offroad Rear Bumper - 914Z Ditch Lights w/ CBI brackets - Ebay Snorkel - Airaid MIT - Big 4 - B&M 70268 - Complete Suspension Rebuild - OME 881/906 Coils - OME 90004/60028 Shocks - ToyTec 1" BL - SS Diff Drop/Panhard Bar/Rear Body Mounts/Hi Lift Mount. Plus other stuff.
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05-23-2020, 01:35 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom8706
Oh really? I was told it wasn't necessary with my lift. I did have the e brake engaged while taking pics.
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In the pic your shocks look connected and your center brake line is stretched pretty tight. The left hand one looks fine.
It obviously isn’t ripping the brake line apart and it doesn’t look stretched too bad. It may be fine.
I wouldn’t run my rig like that. Certainly
Not with 20 year old rubber brake lines.
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05-23-2020, 01:47 PM
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#29
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looks like Wheelers is having a sale on their extended brake lines this weekend - good timing!
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05-23-2020, 01:49 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom8706
Thank you for the response. Is there a guide to show me how to do this? Would I have to lossen all the body mounts or just a few of the back ones?
If I recall correctly there are three on each side between the tires, one on each side behind the rear tires and I assume one or two up front yeah?
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search some of the body lift install threads here - that should give you the info you're after. I'd probably loosen them all then tighten the rears first when you get everything the way you want it if it were me.
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