[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Toya!

Would anyone know why my 99 limited has an intermittent CEL for P0300, P0301, P0303, and P0305? The light comes on every 40 miles or so and off just as frequently. I’ve been fighting P0172 since I got the 4R and have done almost everything to fix that. I’m at my wits end!

Easiest bad, coils, plugs and wires. Hardest belt jumped a tooth or 2.
Other culprits, Maf, o2 sensor, vacuum leak, leaky injector etc. If all these are good then in rare cases ecu.

[Keifers]

CEL is throwing a code for P0451 - Most of what I read online (and in the service manual) points to the Vapor Pressure Sensor (89461-35010) as the culprit. I was in AutoZone two days ago and their diagnostic suggested new O2 sensors first and foremost, but the more detailed description said that it may be an issue with the fuel pump assembly.

I have already replaced the gas cap and driven well over 100 miles to see if that would clear the code. Checked the power source voltage to the VPS and that was within the acceptable range, reading for the output of VPS was 0 but I am not entirely confident that I was touching the PTNK terminal on the sensor. Has anyone else had an issue with P0451? Is installing a new VPS pretty straightforward? It looks like there is just a yellow clip around the base holding it in.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Keifers

CEL is throwing a code for P0451 - Most of what I read online (and in the service manual) points to the Vapor Pressure Sensor (89461-35010) as the culprit. I was in AutoZone two days ago and their diagnostic suggested new O2 sensors first and foremost, but the more detailed description said that it may be an issue with the fuel pump assembly.

I have already replaced the gas cap and driven well over 100 miles to see if that would clear the code. Checked the power source voltage to the VPS and that was within the acceptable range, reading for the output of VPS was 0 but I am not entirely confident that I was touching the PTNK terminal on the sensor. Has anyone else had an issue with P0451? Is installing a new VPS pretty straightforward? It looks like there is just a yellow clip around the base holding it in.

Autozone suggested repairs are the only thing more worthless at fixing a vehicle than the autozone employees themselves. P0451 code is either a problem with the vapor pressure sensor or the wiring for the vapor pressure sensor. In extremely rare cases it could be the ecm as well but very rare cases.

[Bad Luck]

Anyone have a rear hatch squeak when it's cold out? Drives me nuts in the mornings until my bluetooth connects

[974rnr5spd]

Hello T4r, long time reader, first time poster, 6-month car repairing desparado here. Is there supposed to be vacuum at the FPR? 97 with a 3rzfe manual trans. I'm getting P0172 code (running rich), at engine idle, i'm getting 42psi fuel pressure at the banjo nut with everything connected (how it's been running for the last 6 years). All manuals online and in paper form (Haynes) says should be 33-37psi with the vacuum sensing hose attached. I'm getting zero vacuum in that port, thus why i'm seeing 42psi fuel pressure. Ran a smoke test through entire intake and no leaks observed. Anyone with a 3rz and convenient schrader valve setup confirm fuel pressure at idle? My cat is already toast from all the testing so I'm thinking it's actually running rich. I've searched high and low and none of the threads that talks about this are very helpful, I'm getting conflicting information in the forums vs the FSM, people saying there's not supposed to be vacuum at the intake, so how can the FPR do it's job and control the fuel pressure down to 33-37psi? Thanks in advance.

[Spiker Engineering]

Can someone weigh in on what starter I have? It should have come with the 1.8 kW, given that the truck is a Limited with automatic, but looking at the starter, I think it's a 1.4 kW, and a cheap aftermarket at that (I can definitely picture the PO doing that, he was cheap!).

Here's a photo of the two types (1.4 kW on top):



And here is what mine looks like:







Seems to have the short snout of the 1.4 kW, and no Denso stickers to show it's OEM.

If it's an aftermarket 1.4 kW, I'll just grab a used 1.8 kW from a junkyard.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering

Can someone weigh in on what starter I have? It should have come with the 1.8 kW, given that the truck is a Limited with automatic, but looking at the starter, I think it's a 1.4 kW, and a cheap aftermarket at that (I can definitely picture the PO doing that, he was cheap!).

Here's a photo of the two types (1.4 kW on top):



And here is what mine looks like:







Seems to have the short snout of the 1.4 kW, and no Denso stickers to show it's OEM.

If it's an aftermarket 1.4 kW, I'll just grab a used 1.8 kW from a junkyard.

Looks like a 1.4kw starter to me. You should have a 1.8kw starter. Or at least used to have.

[Spiker Engineering]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Looks like a 1.4kw starter to me. You should have a 1.8kw starter. Or at least used to have.

Thanks for confirming. I ordered a 1.8 kW starter from LKQ, managed to find a donor truck with 22,000 miles on it. With that kind of mileage, I may not even need to rebuild it, like I had planned to do with mine.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering

Thanks for confirming. I ordered a 1.8 kW starter from LKQ, managed to find a donor truck with 22,000 miles on it. With that kind of mileage, I may not even need to rebuild it, like I had planned to do with mine.

How much did that starter cost you delivered from LKQ? Any guarantee it's original, factory oem?

I didn't know you could order from them...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Spiker Engineering]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

How much did that starter cost you delivered from LKQ? Any guarantee it's original, factory oem?

I didn't know you could order from them...

You sure can, it's one of the best sites for used parts -https://www.lkqonline.com/. Very professionally organized, mostly low mileage cars (lots of 3rd Gens with under 150K, many under 100K), you can see the actual donor vehicle, good prices, and you don't need to get dirty!

The parts come with I think a 6 mo warranty free (you can pay for longer). I don't know if they explicitly guarantee OEM parts, but I don't believe they'd sell aftermarket stuff without specifying it as such. And best of all, they have a return policy, and if you get something that is not right, they will take care of it.

The starter, with tax (and free delivery) set me back $65. That's just a bit higher than the lowest on Ebay at the moment at $41 + tax - with 230K on it!

And no, that 22K mile Taco's motor or trans are no longer available, I checked .

[Toya!]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Well, what have you done?

Under what kind of driving conditions does the CEL come on, and then go away by itself?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Sorry for being a terrible member, forgot I posted this after I gave up trying to replace a fuel pump on Sunday

But I have slowly been working on the FSM P0172 areas. I will say I got the vehicle with a P0141 code or o2 sensor code and replaced both which is what then got me the P0172. I replaced the MAF, O2 sensors, Injectors on Bank 1, Coolant temp sensor, and am currently trying to replace the fuel pump.

Like stated in the post, it comes and goes under normal driving conditions. When the code goes away it idles and drives no problem, with slight trouble on startup (usually have to give it some gas to help it start). But when the CEL comes back it has a horrible idle and seems to want to stall on reverse. It is an automatic so not sure why it is doing this..

[toy0da]

I got 32s because I was planning on leaving the suspension stock. Now that I realize how cheap the suspension is, I am considering lifting it.

The truck will not need lifting because it will not be a crawler. But I do want it to be cooler ;)

Should I lift it? I know that is a subjective question, but what I'm really looking for is pros and cons, especially for a 2wd that will not be a crawler. MPGs, general DD ability/affect, etc. Also, if I do end up lifting it, should I get 33s? Why or why not?

Thanks.

[4R-User]

I hope someone could help me out with this problem.

Startup/running is rough for the first few minutes when there is significant humidity/fog,
This indicates moisture is impacting the connections/ignition.
I sprayed the ignition coil connectors (wiring harness side) and the coil connectors (ignition coil side) with electrical contact cleaner and it fixes the problem for a month, then the problem returns.
The problem is that the ignition coil connector (wiring harness side) has cracks in the soft rubberized connector part (that keeps out moisture) - this needs to be replaced and I cannot locate the part number in my reference material.

Anyone have the part number for the replacement connector or have an alternative option for replacement?
Thanks again everyone!

[connorms]

Kind of a stupid question, but I'm planning on setting up an auxiliary fuse panel in my engine bay soon, and am in the process of planning everything out right now. I have the Big 3 mod done, and I'm mainly looking to clean up all of my wiring and have some questions about circuit breakers. I was talking about my plans for it with a coworker and he brought up some points that make sense to me, but I don't know enough about electrical to know if it's a good idea or not.

So I was planning on using this fuse block that has two separate circuits, and I was going to set it up with one having constant power and one having switched. If I went this route, I was planning on running each power wire through a 50A circuit breaker, since the fuse panel is rated for 100A. Then I'd need a 120A circuit breaker for my power cable between my alternator and battery, and another for my amp/subwoofer setup. I didn't really want to have to run 4 different circuit breakers, especially when space is tight already, so I guess this is where my question comes in. My coworker said that I don't have to run a circuit breaker between my battery and my fuse panel, as long as the fuses in the panel don't allow the total draw to be over 100A. He said if I use 2 or 4ga wire for the main power wire, which according to 12voltguy's chart, either should easily be able to carry 100A without getting melty (or could I go even smaller if I'm running 50A to each circuit?). This makes sense to me since any connection drawing power would be fused anyways, and as long as I'm careful with it to not exceed 100A total it makes sense that the cable wouldn't fry. But like I said earlier, I don't know electrical stuff well enough to know if that makes sense, so any advice is appreciated!

[BretMann]

Although I've participated in forums for years, I just joined this one and am already lost. I just want to post a new thread to ask a question but I tried the new thread button and it says I can't. I'm allowed to reply though, I think. Odd.

How do I post my question regarding my 3rd gen 4Runner?

Thanks.