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3rd gen T4Rs
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https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/)
| spartacus |
10-30-2020 03:46 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dial4toRun
(Post 3561342)
is this where I can post my dumb questions, coo, just bought a 3rd and when I gas it while at high RPM's I hear an extremely loud whistling. which sounds like it is coming from middle bottom......nope not a turbo!
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Could be a simple vacuum leak and you should be able to duplicate it, by reving the engine at high rpms and listening. If it only happens while moving it could be differential front or rear, drain the diff fluid and look for metal. Replace the fluid to see if it helps.
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| HiLife |
10-31-2020 10:46 AM |
I experienced that same whistle/screem at high rpm. Mines ended up being bad alternator bearings. Swaped out alt fixed my issue.
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| Devbot |
10-31-2020 05:37 PM |
Is it possible to move/twist the steering knuckle so it's less likely to collide with the springs, or is my only hope to take off the strut and rearrange the coil?
Or are there better aftermarket knuckles?
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| Malcolm99 |
10-31-2020 06:25 PM |
Cylceandsurf that frame has been terribly welded and patched, look at the weld on the rear control support to frame, a blind man could weld better, run from that vehicle it's finished IMO.
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| Dial4toRun |
11-01-2020 06:22 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
(Post 3561399)
Could be a simple vacuum leak and you should be able to duplicate it, by reving the engine at high rpms and listening. If it only happens while moving it could be differential front or rear, drain the diff fluid and look for metal. Replace the fluid to see if it helps.
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oh ok, will do this today, thanks
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| Doc3g |
11-02-2020 03:01 AM |
This is probably a stupid wiring question but here goes. I know that on the rear of the truck I plan on mounting a few things that will require power (extra backup lights, a set of rear work lights, and a set of hazard flasher lights for sure). So, instead of running a bunch of single wires along the length of the truck, I figured I would run two main cable runs. The first would be a decently heavy gauge black wire from the battery, which could then be tapped into for power. Then I would also run a jacketed wire with 4 individual wires inside (something like this Amazon.com: 250FT Outdoor UV Protection Rated Professional Speaker Audio Cable 14AWG Direct Burial 14/4 Bulk Spool (250FT, 14/4): Electronics) that I would run to my switch panel inside the cab. Am I missing something or is this viable? |
| Bad Luck |
11-02-2020 09:57 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc3g
(Post 3562152)
This is probably a stupid wiring question but here goes. I know that on the rear of the truck I plan on mounting a few things that will require power (extra backup lights, a set of rear work lights, and a set of hazard flasher lights for sure). So, instead of running a bunch of single wires along the length of the truck, I figured I would run two main cable runs. The first would be a decently heavy gauge black wire from the battery, which could then be tapped into for power. Then I would also run a jacketed wire with 4 individual wires inside (something like this Amazon.com: 250FT Outdoor UV Protection Rated Professional Speaker Audio Cable 14AWG Direct Burial 14/4 Bulk Spool (250FT, 14/4): Electronics) that I would run to my switch panel inside the cab. Am I missing something or is this viable?
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I'm assuming you are using relays at the rear main power/ground to control it? Otherwise you would still be flowing the full current through the switch and it would be pointless to run a main power and ground to the rear.
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| Bad Luck |
11-02-2020 09:58 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
(Post 3561741)
Is it possible to move/twist the steering knuckle so it's less likely to collide with the springs, or is my only hope to take off the strut and rearrange the coil?
Or are there better aftermarket knuckles?
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Your knuckle is hitting the springs or the upper control arm? It's rare for the knuckle to hit the spring, but the only real solution is rotating the spring assembly.
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| Devbot |
11-02-2020 10:45 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
(Post 3562183)
Your knuckle is hitting the springs or the upper control arm? It's rare for the knuckle to hit the spring, but the only real solution is rotating the spring assembly.
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Yes, on the spring, at full droop, can take a pic later if you want. It's to my understanding with the TRD lift the springs should be orientated in a way to prevent this (something I didnt know when installing them), I was just curious if there was a fix without breaking the strut down again. Not that big a deal, not long ago we got a coilover machine at my work I've been wanting to use
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| Bad Luck |
11-02-2020 10:47 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
(Post 3562195)
Yes, on the spring, at full droop, can take a pic later if you want. It's to my understanding with the TRD lift the springs should be orientated in a way to prevent this (something I didnt know when installing them), I was just curious if there was a fix without breaking the strut down again. Not that big a deal, not long ago we got a coilover machine at my work I've been wanting to use
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Most people hit the upper control arm with the spring, but the couple I read that hit the knuckle rotated the spring and that fixed the problem for them. One guy took a couple tries if I remember correctly.
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| Doc3g |
11-02-2020 06:28 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
(Post 3562182)
I'm assuming you are using relays at the rear main power/ground to control it? Otherwise you would still be flowing the full current through the switch and it would be pointless to run a main power and ground to the rear.
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Right, like a relay box in the back with room for 4-6 relays or something like that, just so that if you are going to go through the trouble of routing cables, you only do it once, and then if you decide to add something else to the back of the truck, you just throw in another relay and wire up your accessory.
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| Bad Luck |
11-02-2020 06:40 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc3g
(Post 3562429)
Right, like a relay box in the back with room for 4-6 relays or something like that, just so that if you are going to go through the trouble of routing cables, you only do it once, and then if you decide to add something else to the back of the truck, you just throw in another relay and wire up your accessory.
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That makes sense to me. I don't see why it wouldn't work and that's a good way to do it if you have several things in the rear to power and control in my opinion. Good idea!
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| Doc3g |
11-02-2020 07:39 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
(Post 3562436)
That makes sense to me. I don't see why it wouldn't work and that's a good way to do it if you have several things in the rear to power and control in my opinion. Good idea!
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Here's sort of a mockup of what I was thinking but in the real scenario there would be something like a 6 slot relay bank in the bank (several things I have planned already, plus room for future expansion).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wh...-no?authuser=0
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| Bad Luck |
11-03-2020 11:34 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc3g
(Post 3562463)
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Photo isn't working for me
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| 96RedRunner |
11-03-2020 01:04 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc3g
(Post 3562152)
Am I missing something or is this viable?
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Sounds like a good plan, same as wiring a sound amp. Size main fuse for wire size, size branch fuses for each load.
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