[toy0da]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

November 17, 2022 - YouTube

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I also can't hear it, sorry.

But what is your exhaust setup

[chillywest27]

New to this Forum so not sure if this is the right place to post this!



Hey, I'm looking into a 1998 Toyota 4Runner // 160.000 miles // rwd automatic // 2.7L 4Cylinder for 9000$.

I've never owned a 4R, but really got into this one because it looks very well taken care of (1 owner), has clean carfax and good MPG (want to drive it across the country and gas prices go uuup).

Prices for used 4Runners have really gone up too, so I wonder if you would pay 9 Grand for this one? Is it overpriced or just what they cost nowadays?



Thanks so much

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by chillywest27

New to this Forum so not sure if this is the right place to post this!







Hey, I'm looking into a 1998 Toyota 4Runner // 160.000 miles // rwd automatic // 2.7L 4Cylinder for 9000$.



I've never owned a 4R, but really got into this one because it looks very well taken care of (1 owner), has clean carfax and good MPG (want to drive it across the country and gas prices go uuup).



Prices for used 4Runners have really gone up too, so I wonder if you would pay 9 Grand for this one? Is it overpriced or just what they cost nowadays?



Here's the link:

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/2...-cf3024d59339/ (note: I confirmed it's a rwd automatic transmission)



Thanks so much

The 5-speed is definitely the more desirable 4-cyl albeit less popular than the 3.4L V6, shame it's 2WD - unless that's what you want. It could be converted to 4WD and would be a great SAS candidate...
Add a locking rear differential and boom, solid truck.

Not worth $9k anymore, covid premiums are declining. I'd ask when the timing belt and lower Ball joints were last replaced and negotiate from there. If it needs all that maintenance (and more for sure) then I'd see how they feel about $6k, they probably paid $1,500-2k for it but dealers aren't that realistic or practical

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[toy0da]

Planning to have OME springs and Bilstein shocks installed. Questions:

1. Trying to decide between 880s and 881s. A front bumper is planned, but a winch is not. I hear the lift from the 880s is basically invisible. However, I don't want it to be too high with 881s. Looking for a ~2-2.5 inch lift. And then probably going with 906 on the rear.

2. Is the sole purpose of trim packers literally just an additional 5 or 10 mm of lift? Or do they have some other purpose? Not sure if I should get some. Front or rear. Both sides or just one.
- For example, if I go 881 and 906, rear packers are recommended for rake, yes? However, I don't want the rear too high...

3. It's a 2wd and will only see the occasional trail, but I hear that lower ball joints are critical to be replaced regardless. But what about upper control arms or any other suspension components?

4. I am running 265/70/17 tires with 4.5 backspace and 0 offset. What are my options for spacers?

5. What is the best PSI for 265/70/17 (A/T) tires? The shop set them to 38.

Thanks.

[Storm01]

Originally Posted by toy0da

Planning to have OME springs and Bilstein shocks installed. Questions:

1. Trying to decide between 880s and 881s. A front bumper is planned, but a winch is not. I hear the lift from the 880s is basically invisible. However, I don't want it to be too high with 881s. Looking for a ~2-2.5 inch lift. And then probably going with 906 on the rear.

2. Is the sole purpose of trim packers literally just an additional 5 or 10 mm of lift? Or do they have some other purpose? Not sure if I should get some. Front or rear. Both sides or just one.
- For example, if I go 881 and 906, the rear packers are recommended, yes?

3. It's a 2wd and will only see the occasional trail, but I hear that lower ball joints are critical to be replaced regardless. But what about upper control arms or any other suspension components?

4. I am running 265/70/17 tires with 4.5 backspace and 0 offset. What are my options for spacers?

5. What is the best PSI for 265/70/17 (A/T) tires? The shop set them to 38.

Thanks.

1. If you're going to add weight, get some springs that can actually handle it. I have some Eibach Pro-Lift springs that give a 2.5" lift stock but with my bumper, I have about a 2" give or take. However, I had to add a TPS to level out the lean. Take a look at the 883s or similar if you add weight.

2. From my understanding, trim packers are used to fix lean mainly but they add lift.

I used a top plate spacer to fix my lean on my driver front, which gave me about .5" of extra lift. I also used a 20mm trim packer for a 80 Series Cruiser on my 891s to fix the lean. 881/906 would be pretty level I think, personally I like .5"-1" of rake but that's just me due to how much weight I carry. I would go 881/890s but if you don't want that, 881/906 w/ a trim packer or two would look good to me.

3. LBJs are for sure vital to replace; only OEMs w/ new bolts. It's just not worth the risk going aftermarket.

Your UCA's should be okay. However, you may run in alignment issues if you have other worn bushings like your LCAs. (mine didn't align properly without changing those after my lift) If you haven't done your CV axles, they will probably rip once you add that lift. I recommend replacing anything you think should be replaced BEFORE you add your lift (tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc) so you can fully enjoy it.

4. Why do you want spacers? Just curious is all.

I have some Spidertrax 1.25 spacers on my rig with stock 5-stars. They look good, makes it have a flush stance. You may run into rubbing with your backspacing + spacers. (at-least I think so. Correct me if I'm wrong.)

5. Lots of variables to consider. I personally run 33-34PSI in the front 32-33 in the back on my 265/75R16 E-Load KO2s. (same size as your 17s but a 16" wheel)Do yourself a chalk test to determine what PSI to run that gives you the best tire wear.

Sorry for the lengthy response, hope it helps

[JoeT4R]

@Devbot I'll try to capture another video again. It did it this morning when I left for work and sounded awful.
@toy0da No worries. I've got a Borla 40665 muffler but that's it.

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[jrm]

I bought a pair of 880s from a person who installed them along with 5100s on a 2wd, and removed them b/c they were too firm due to lack of the additional weight of a front axle. They instead went with 99 tall front springs on 5100s. The 99 tall springs unlike the 880s are side specific to compensate for the additional weight of the driver and the gas tank on the left side of the vehicle. The 906s are also side specific for the same reason. Sso you might not need toe trim packs if you went that route.

If your tires are P rated that psi might be a bit high. If the tires are LT C or E rated, 38 psi sounds about right.

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

So when I turn the key, it'll crank, crank, crank— screech, then turn over and start. It's less than second long.

Is the above crank time and start normal other than screech? it parked outside?

Has happened to me with changing seasons parked outside, Fog or heavy dew in the air on belts
has made that just barely tight enough belt squeal a second or three. It's turned into a seasonal service reminder in a way.

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by Storm01

5. Lots of variables to consider. I personally run 33-34PSI in the front 32-33 in the back Do yourself a chalk test to determine what PSI to run that gives you the best tire wear.

What he said, vehicle weight comes into play along with tire tread design, chalk test gets you best wear.
Running Patagonia MT 285/75-16 E, has a crowned tread. Contact patch on pavement is center 2/3 of tread,
outer lugs contact in turns or soft surface only for max wear. DD use F 36-38 R 35-37.
I air down often I chalk often, first timer with Patagonia's stretch it far as I can.

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

Is the above crank time and start normal other than screech? it parked outside?

Has happened to me with changing seasons parked outside, Fog or heavy dew in the air on belts
has made that just barely tight enough belt squeal a second or three. It's turned into a seasonal service reminder in a way.

Crank time/start remain the same as normal. It is indeed parked outside. It did it again this evening when leaving work.

I did have the idea of using a mechanics stethoscope on my starter when starting the truck. I'll have to acquire one though.

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[ForceRunner]

I am getting ready to swap in an 02 engine from my wrecked 4Runner into my 97 that I just bought with a blown engine. I’ve already bought new exhaust gaskets and I can tell I’ll have to use the intake from the 97. Is there anything else I’ll need or should look at while I have the engine out?


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[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

Crank time/start remain the same as normal. It is indeed parked outside. It did it again this evening when leaving work.

I did have the idea of using a mechanics stethoscope on my starter when starting the truck. I'll have to acquire one though.

What the weather like moisture laden air?

A piece of rebar can be a stethoscope ha long screwdriver etc.

[jrm]

installed some 6112s and was wondering how much time it takes for it to settle or drop to its final level?

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by jrm

installed some 6112s and was wondering how much time it takes for it to settle or drop to its final level?

Shocks don't settle in, springs do. What coils are you running?

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[Silver.T4R]

Originally Posted by Devbot

Story of my damn life A solid 90% of the noises my truck makes don't happen until I'm a couple miles from work or just leaving the shop, I swear they flip on like a switch
It's definitely not a wheel bearing, they don't chatter. That sounds like metal-on-metal squeaking to me, almost like a u-joint starting to go dry. That would somewhat explain why direction doesn't matter, and why it can't be replicated with the car off and sitting still, though it should change at speed... You could try greasing the driveline and see where it gets you anyways?
A couple months ago when i swapped out coils I noticed my old TRD Tundra set was just barely kissing the UCA sleeve, which certainly gave me a random squeak that mysteriously vanished before I could address it (wore away metal and clearanced itself). I doubt it's happening to you, but it was a very sneaky spot that might deserve a peek

Your telling me... between that sound and a rattle in the cargo area that I can't replicate for the life of me as soon as I'm stopped... it drives me nuts. I appreciate the advice of checking the UCA and making sure its not rubbing, I'm going to check that and the exhaust heat shield tomorrow as it looked like thats the other thing that rattles loose overtime. Ujoints should be good as I greased them within the last 1k miles front and rear and I checked them and the tcase for any slop in the output shaft bearings and didn't notice any. Not real sure what else it would be, as I tried revving it in neutral to see if the substrate material in the cat could be coming loose once its heated up but its totally silent when its stopped/in neutral. Will end up just taking it into my mechanic if I can't figure it out tomorrow as it's noticeably getting worse which has me concerned as the metal on metal sound doesn't sound good.