[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by jrm

installed some 6112s and was wondering how much time it takes for it to settle or drop to its final level?

Tundra 6112's bumper & winch 80-90# tire wheel combo 80# @ 10K mi tires started rubbing backing up,
Stock weight or close figure more miles I guessing.
650# spring what comes on most 6112's.

[jrm]

The 600lb coils that came with the struts..

[toy0da]

Originally Posted by Storm01

1. If you're going to add weight, get some springs that can actually handle it. I have some Eibach Pro-Lift springs that give a 2.5" lift stock but with my bumper, I have about a 2" give or take. However, I had to add a TPS to level out the lean. Take a look at the 883s or similar if you add weight.

2. From my understanding, trim packers are used to fix lean mainly but they add lift.

I used a top plate spacer to fix my lean on my driver front, which gave me about .5" of extra lift. I also used a 20mm trim packer for a 80 Series Cruiser on my 891s to fix the lean. 881/906 would be pretty level I think, personally I like .5"-1" of rake but that's just me due to how much weight I carry. I would go 881/890s but if you don't want that, 881/906 w/ a trim packer or two would look good to me.

3. LBJs are for sure vital to replace; only OEMs w/ new bolts. It's just not worth the risk going aftermarket.

Your UCA's should be okay. However, you may run in alignment issues if you have other worn bushings like your LCAs. (mine didn't align properly without changing those after my lift) If you haven't done your CV axles, they will probably rip once you add that lift. I recommend replacing anything you think should be replaced BEFORE you add your lift (tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc) so you can fully enjoy it.

4. Why do you want spacers? Just curious is all.

I have some Spidertrax 1.25 spacers on my rig with stock 5-stars. They look good, makes it have a flush stance. You may run into rubbing with your backspacing + spacers. (at-least I think so. Correct me if I'm wrong.)

5. Lots of variables to consider. I personally run 33-34PSI in the front 32-33 in the back on my 265/75R16 E-Load KO2s. (same size as your 17s but a 16" wheel)Do yourself a chalk test to determine what PSI to run that gives you the best tire wear.

Sorry for the lengthy response, hope it helps

Thank you for this response!

I keep hearing that the 906s are borderline too high, so I'm hesitant to get the trim packers for the rear, even though I do want some rake.

And I want spacers just for a more aggressive look. Isn't that their only purpose? I was just wondering what are my limits with my suspension setup and if there are any other factors I should consider. Do you have the spacers all around?

[toy0da]

Originally Posted by jrm

I bought a pair of 880s from a person who installed them along with 5100s on a 2wd, and removed them b/c they were too firm due to lack of the additional weight of a front axle. They instead went with 99 tall front springs on 5100s. The 99 tall springs unlike the 880s are side specific to compensate for the additional weight of the driver and the gas tank on the left side of the vehicle. The 906s are also side specific for the same reason. Sso you might not need toe trim packs if you went that route.

If your tires are P rated that psi might be a bit high. If the tires are LT C or E rated, 38 psi sounds about right.

I should have mentioned. Mine is a '97. Does this change anything for me?

[jrm]

Nay. The only difference might be if the truck has the 3.4 or 2.8 engine due to the difference in weight between the two.

[Storm01]

Originally Posted by toy0da

Thank you for this response!

I keep hearing that the 906s are borderline too high, so I'm hesitant to get the trim packers for the rear, even though I do want some rake.

And I want spacers just for a more aggressive look. Isn't that their only purpose? I was just wondering what are my limits with my suspension setup and if there are any other factors I should consider. Do you have the spacers all around?

Nah, they aren't too tall. 906's give about 2" of lift. My 891s gave me about 3" give or take half an inch with all my gear and armor. I would add one trim packer to the driver side just incase of lean and/or settling.

Also yes, I run spacers front and rear. If you're going to get spacers, get some that are HUB-CENTRIC not LUG-CENTRIC. Spacers can help fit wider tires like 285 33s. (on stock wheels) With your 4.5" backspacing, you would be at the same stance as mine with stock wheels and spacers. If you would like, I can post a pic of my rig with my setup for you.

[alia176]

Since this is the thread for all questions, here's mine: is there way to attach a Baofeng radio to the driver side A pillar grab handle? I wonder if RAM has a grab handle mount for 1" ball ?

Search came up with too many threads

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by alia176

Since this is the thread for all questions, here's mine: is there way to attach a Baofeng radio to the driver side A pillar grab handle? I wonder if RAM has a grab handle mount for 1" ball ?

Search came up with too many threads

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk

I haven't done this, but I think this is what you are wanting:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3610811-post8.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3610872-post10.html

[octanejunkie]

I want to mod my shifter, bend the shaft more forward to keep the shift lever from hitting my coffee cup.
Anyone do this?

Also, considering a URD short shifter
Any reason not to?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

I want to mod my shifter, bend the shaft more forward to keep the shift lever from hitting my coffee cup.
Anyone do this?

Also, considering a URD short shifter
Any reason not to?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Personally I would just heat it up and bend it before getting a whole new shifter. Any reason that isn't an option? I'm automatic so I'm obviously not familiar with our sticks, but that's how it's most commonly done with custom crawlers when fitting a trans swap

[toy0da]

Originally Posted by Storm01

Nah, they aren't too tall. 906's give about 2" of lift. My 891s gave me about 3" give or take half an inch with all my gear and armor. I would add one trim packer to the driver side just incase of lean and/or settling.

Also yes, I run spacers front and rear. If you're going to get spacers, get some that are HUB-CENTRIC not LUG-CENTRIC. Spacers can help fit wider tires like 285 33s. (on stock wheels) With your 4.5" backspacing, you would be at the same stance as mine with stock wheels and spacers. If you would like, I can post a pic of my rig with my setup for you.

Yes please! What size are spacers?

And my wheels are not stock. I don't know the stock offset and backspace but my new wheels are 0 offset, 4.5 backspace, and 267/70/17s.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

I want to mod my shifter, bend the shaft more forward to keep the shift lever from hitting my coffee cup.
Anyone do this?

Also, considering a URD short shifter
Any reason not to?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I would heat it and bend it. Try to bend it where the boot will cover it because heat will definitely discolor/remove the paint on it.

My brother has a 1st gen tacoma with a urd short throw shifter and I hate it. It makes all the synchros feel really stiff and I'm not a fan of the overall reduced movement between shift points. Keep in mind when you reduce the throw you increase the felt effort (torque/power/force) required to overcome the synchros.

[Dezert4Runner]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

I want to mod my shifter, bend the shaft more forward to keep the shift lever from hitting my coffee cup.
Anyone do this?

Also, considering a URD short shifter
Any reason not to?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I have the URD shifter and got it because of where I mount my phone in my preferred spot near the center dash bezel below the left vent to keep that vent unobstructed. The shift knob was too close to the phone when in first gear, and also having tall cups in the front cup holder would make contact. It just clears both comfortably and I think the short shifter still shifts as smooth as before. It takes a minute to get used to the reduced throw, but I wouldn’t want to get rid of it at this point, FWIW.

I think they go on sale around Black Friday, so now would be the time to get one if you’re in the market. I could see bending the shaft being a viable option for you if the cup holder is the only thing you’re concerned about clearing.

[alia176]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

I haven't done this, but I think this is what you are wanting:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3610811-post8.html

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3610872-post10.html

Neither of the links is showing me a grab handle radio holder

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[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by alia176

Neither of the links is showing me a grab handle radio holder

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk

I thought you were trying to find a 1" ram mount for the grab handle. I'll just go **** myself.