[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Toya!

I was afraid of this, looking at the FSM I saw nothing with the exhaust besides an exhaust leak. He did tell me with the IR gun that it registered a considerable temperature difference pre and post cat. Luckily I live in a no emissions county so I will chop it just to be safe and build a O2 fouler.

One thing that stumps me though, is the stupid P0172 goes away every morning on my 6 mile drive to work and comes back when I go home for the day. when its gone the truck runs amazing, when it is lit it runs like crap. I am going crazy over this thing

A properly functioning catalytic converter is hotter after the converter than before it. You would be wise to disregard everything that "mechanic" said to you.

[I love 4runners]

I am just about to engine swap my 1996 Toyota 4 Runner, but I cannot find a good video on how to swap the engine and this is my first time swapping an engine. So does anyone know where a good video to teach me how and that I could follow while taking the engine out. Thankyou

[tlp123]

Many thanks for this thread and wealth of knowledge here.

Thank you for suffereing my ignorance. I know very little but have lately taken to do more of what I'm capable of on my 2002 SR5. Besides the ultra basics like fluid changes, brakes etc....I'm doing more of my own work as I learn how easy lots of this is with a little patience, research, and of course the proper tools.

After over 40yrs as a electrical engineer and also a licensed aircraft mechanic and electronics tech, I've slowly developed an aversion to working on vehicles. Up until a few years ago, I hated working on any vehicle. After long hard hours, last thing I want to do with my leisure is work on them.

Thank you all again for this forum and all the encylopedic knowledge here. I've learned an awful lot here over the years.

And surprisingly, 2002 4Runner major maintenance DYI'ng can be fun even for 64yr old luddites like myself ;)

[Toya!]

Question for rigs '96-'00

When you turn your key to the on position, do you hear a hum coming from the passenger side firewall? My understanding is this is the ABS motor priming. I have been chasing squishy brakes for almost a year now and I am starting to think there is air trapped in my ABS pump and with no functioning ABS I cant get it out

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Toya!

Question for rigs '96-'00



When you turn your key to the on position, do you hear a hum coming from the passenger side firewall? My understanding is this is the ABS motor priming. I have been chasing squishy brakes for almost a year now and I am starting to think there is air trapped in my ABS pump and with no functioning ABS I cant get it out

Yes, ABS pump priming.

Potential air in ABS system, there are several articles around about that

I would start with properly adjusting (rear) and bleeding the system through, replacing all the fluid. The process for that is different depending on the year of your truck.

What year is your truck?

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[Toya!]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Yes, ABS pump priming.

Potential air in ABS system, there are several articles around about that

I would start with properly adjusting (rear) and bleeding the system through, replacing all the fluid. The process for that is different depending on the year of your truck.

What year is your truck?

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Dude you are seriously the GOAT here. Always responding to questions!

It is a '99 limited. So far I have attempted to adjust the rears a handful of times and even went as far as replacing the wheel cylinders (during bleeding I noticed hardly any fluid was coming out) I have some new brake shoes on the shelf to throw on as well. I tried to do the fine tuning by pulling the ebrake but noticed it would get far too tight too fast, I am only able to pull the ebrake now 4-5 clicks using all my strength (and my purse).

I have never been able to get the hum from the ABS motor priming either. no ABS codes are logged and I can hear the ABS relay click so I know there is power. I feel like a damn doctor trying to diagnose this!!!

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Toya!

Dude you are seriously the GOAT here. Always responding to questions!

It is a '99 limited. So far I have attempted to adjust the rears a handful of times and even went as far as replacing the wheel cylinders (during bleeding I noticed hardly any fluid was coming out) I have some new brake shoes on the shelf to throw on as well. I tried to do the fine tuning by pulling the ebrake but noticed it would get far too tight too fast, I am only able to pull the ebrake now 4-5 clicks using all my strength (and my purse).

I have never been able to get the hum from the ABS motor priming either. no ABS codes are logged and I can hear the ABS relay click so I know there is power. I feel like a damn doctor trying to diagnose this!!!

To get the abs pump to cycle enough to get air out usually requires hard braking/sliding/skidding on wet or dirt roads which causes the ABS to activate. That will also let you know if your ABS is working or not. If you lock up and skid without the brake pedal pushing back/vibrating then the ABS pump isn't working.

[Toya!]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

To get the abs pump to cycle enough to get air out usually requires hard braking/sliding/skidding on wet or dirt roads which causes the ABS to activate. That will also let you know if your ABS is working or not. If you lock up and skid without the brake pedal pushing back/vibrating then the ABS pump isn't working.

Idk if there can be more than one GOAT but you would be one!

I have attempted to activate the ABS multiple times on multiple different terrains. I can never fully tell if it is just late 90s tech activating or if it is the rotors slipping past the pads.

I've also tried to make my friends '97 ABS come on (hers does prime when the key is first turned) and her ABS light (either the ABS light or the BRAKE light) comes on when braking hard enough. My 2008 Civic SI has a very distinct ABS feel so it is really difficult for me to say confidently that I have made my ABS engage

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Toya!

Idk if there can be more than one GOAT but you would be one!

I have attempted to activate the ABS multiple times on multiple different terrains. I can never fully tell if it is just late 90s tech activating or if it is the rotors slipping past the pads.

I've also tried to make my friends '97 ABS come on (hers does prime when the key is first turned) and her ABS light (either the ABS light or the BRAKE light) comes on when braking hard enough. My 2008 Civic SI has a very distinct ABS feel so it is really difficult for me to say confidently that I have made my ABS engage

Thank you for the kind words. If you aren't getting a vibrating/pushing back in the brake pedal then your ABS pump isn't working properly or at all. The key difference between ABS activation and brake rotor/pad issue is the brake pedal pushing back during ABS activation.

[Toya!]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Thank you for the kind words. If you aren't getting a vibrating/pushing back in the brake pedal then your ABS pump isn't working properly or at all. The key difference between ABS activation and brake rotor/pad issue is the brake pedal pushing back during ABS activation.

ABS aside though, the FSM says nothing about bleeding the ABS system for resolving a squishy/soft pedal. Like I had said previously my ebrake cable is super tight so on tonights list is to throw on the drum shoes and bleed until I have gone through enough brake fluid to fill a hotel swimming pool

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Toya!

ABS aside though, the FSM says nothing about bleeding the ABS system for resolving a squishy/soft pedal. Like I had said previously my ebrake cable is super tight so on tonights list is to throw on the drum shoes and bleed until I have gone through enough brake fluid to fill a hotel swimming pool

Have you verified that your bell cranks are moving and adjusted properly?

[Toya!]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Have you verified that your bell cranks are moving and adjusted properly?

I have, which is leaving me even more perplexed. I bought it as a 23 year old dessert car so there is zero rust that would cause the bell cranks to be out of wack. My assumption is that the rear shoes are enough worn down to the point it has taken all of the slack out of the ebrake cable

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Toya!

I have, which is leaving me even more perplexed. I bought it as a 23 year old dessert car so there is zero rust that would cause the bell cranks to be out of wack. My assumption is that the rear shoes are enough worn down to the point it has taken all of the slack out of the ebrake cable

If your shoes are adjusted correctly and your bell cranks are moving freely and adjusted correctly then the shoe material thickness does not matter in the equation. The adjuster accounts for brake shoe wear.

The pdf in this post is the correct procedure for adjusting bell cranks: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1554624-post4.html Did you follow that procedure? There's also an adjustment on the parking brake for loosening the parking brake cable.

Did your master cylinder get replaced or go empty at any point?

[Toya!]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

If your shoes are adjusted correctly and your bell cranks are moving freely and adjusted correctly then the shoe material thickness does not matter in the equation. The adjuster accounts for brake shoe wear.

The pdf in this post is the correct procedure for adjusting bell cranks: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1554624-post4.html Did you follow that procedure? There's also an adjustment on the parking brake for loosening the parking brake cable.

Did your master cylinder get replaced or go empty at any point?

Alright time for a check in, followed the procedure you posted and even disassembled/regreased everything and still the same issue.

New brake shoes and bell crank/drums were adjusted yet at 9 clicks it refused to do anything but lightly slow the truck down. Bell cranks move easily and there is no locking or freezing at all. One thing I did notice while the drums were dissasembled was the driver side seemed to auto adjust ~3-4 clicks while the passenger side only clicked ~1-2 times but only at 9 e-brake clicks. Getting super frustrated with this thing

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Toya!

Alright time for a check in, followed the procedure you posted and even disassembled/regreased everything and still the same issue.



New brake shoes and bell crank/drums were adjusted yet at 9 clicks it refused to do anything but lightly slow the truck down. Bell cranks move easily and there is no locking or freezing at all. One thing I did notice while the drums were dissasembled was the driver side seemed to auto adjust ~3-4 clicks while the passenger side only clicked ~1-2 times but only at 9 e-brake clicks. Getting super frustrated with this thing

Tighten the rear adjusters until you cannot rotate the rear tires (one at a time) with one finger, then back off 2-3 clicks

Your final handbrake lever setting should be 5-7 clicks

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