[DJRodriguez88]

Does anyone use any kind of rubber conditioner or some other substance on their cv boots to make sure they stay healthy for a longer time?

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by DJRodriguez88

yeah i thought the same thing, but 2 youtube how-to's in a row pulled the mounting bolts

I'll try the stud first, thanks!

For what it worth I've been doing BJ's since before YouTube and net was invented. I'm old.

[DJRodriguez88]

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

For what it worth I've been doing BJ's since before YouTube and net was invented. I'm old.

Let's call it "experienced" =]

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by DJRodriguez88

Does anyone use any kind of rubber conditioner or some other substance on their cv boots to make sure they stay healthy for a longer time?

Haven't heard of it being done.
01 bought @ 198k mi original boots/shafts. Did 2.5-3" lift with diff drop 10k mi give or take one of the four broke.

[Boom_ROASTED]

so I'm rebooting my steering rack. Driver side boot was torn but no issues with the steering at all.

I can tell my inner tie rod on the driver side seems a little more stiff than the passenger side. Can I just slop some more grease on and reboot? Is there anything I can look for that would indicate things will go south quick? There's no roughness or looseness at all, just slightly harder to move around compared to the passenger side.

also, because the boot was torn there's a bit of a mess in the driver side end. Any reason I can't spray the crud out with some brakeleen?

[clearock]

Originally Posted by Boom_ROASTED

so I'm rebooting my steering rack. Driver side boot was torn but no issues with the steering at all.

I can tell my inner tie rod on the driver side seems a little more stiff than the passenger side. Can I just slop some more grease on and reboot? Is there anything I can look for that would indicate things will go south quick? There's no roughness or looseness at all, just slightly harder to move around compared to the passenger side.

also, because the boot was torn there's a bit of a mess in the driver side end. Any reason I can't spray the crud out with some brakeleen?

IMO if I was doing all this work I'd just replace all my tie rods, unless they have just been done, if they have an unknown or a known high miles why waste all ur time and effort...

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Boom_ROASTED

so I'm rebooting my steering rack. Driver side boot was torn but no issues with the steering at all.



I can tell my inner tie rod on the driver side seems a little more stiff than the passenger side. Can I just slop some more grease on and reboot? Is there anything I can look for that would indicate things will go south quick? There's no roughness or looseness at all, just slightly harder to move around compared to the passenger side.



also, because the boot was torn there's a bit of a mess in the driver side end. Any reason I can't spray the crud out with some brakeleen?

If the boot(a) are torn, replace them. You don't want debris getting into the rack.

If the inner tie rods are bad, replace them. Loose doesn't mean bad, check for play and replace if out of spec. I usually replace them in pairs vs each if one is bad.

JM2C

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Dezert4Runner]

Originally Posted by Boom_ROASTED

so I'm rebooting my steering rack. Driver side boot was torn but no issues with the steering at all.

I can tell my inner tie rod on the driver side seems a little more stiff than the passenger side. Can I just slop some more grease on and reboot? Is there anything I can look for that would indicate things will go south quick? There's no roughness or looseness at all, just slightly harder to move around compared to the passenger side.

also, because the boot was torn there's a bit of a mess in the driver side end. Any reason I can't spray the crud out with some brakeleen?

The good tie rod is tight so the one with more play is the suspect one, if anything. If you get your hands on a new inner or outer, that’s the first thing you’ll notice. They almost don’t move without significant pressure being applied.

[wtfdissux2]

Has anyone used protune rear adjustable upper and lower arms with adjustable panhard bar? About to lift it after putting it off for last 5 years and now since I need to replace a lot of bushings anyways figured might as well

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by wtfdissux2

Has anyone used protune rear adjustable upper and lower arms with adjustable panhard bar? About to lift it after putting it off for last 5 years and now since I need to replace a lot of bushings anyways figured might as well

If you are talking about these: Upper & Lower & Track Bar Arm For 2-4" Lift Kit 4-Runner FJ Cruiser 03-09 I would be very skeptical about the fitment as they don't list what years of 4Runner they fit.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by wtfdissux2

Has anyone used protune rear adjustable upper and lower arms with adjustable panhard bar? About to lift it after putting it off for last 5 years and now since I need to replace a lot of bushings anyways figured might as well

Don't change the trailing arms for adjustable ones, there really isn't much adjustment possible given the clearances of everything back there.

I went with Rokman lower trailing arms, personally, beefy with new bushings. The upgraded, fixed length arms Sonoran Steel sells are nice too. The stock uppers are also pretty good, replacing the bushings is a chore.

I've always favored the eimkeith PCK over adjustable panhard bars, personally - weld it one and done. One less thing to come loose or unadjusted.

JM2C

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Don't change the trailing arms for adjustable ones, there really isn't much adjustment possible given the clearances of everything back there.

I went with Rokman lower trailing arms, personally, beefy with new bushings. The upgraded, fixed length arms Sonoran Steel sells are nice too. The stock uppers are also pretty good, replacing the bushings is a chore.

I've always favored the eimkeith PCK over adjustable panhard bars, personally - weld it one and done. One less thing to come loose or unadjusted.

JM2C

But what about an adjustable panhard bar with the PCK?

Sent from my SM-T220 using Tapatalk

[wtfdissux2]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Don't change the trailing arms for adjustable ones, there really isn't much adjustment possible given the clearances of everything back there.

I went with Rokman lower trailing arms, personally, beefy with new bushings. The upgraded, fixed length arms Sonoran Steel sells are nice too. The stock uppers are also pretty good, replacing the bushings is a chore.

I've always favored the eimkeith PCK over adjustable panhard bars, personally - weld it one and done. One less thing to come loose or unadjusted.

JM2C

The uppers are both bent and all bushings about shot figured adjustable even threaded all the way in would be more solid than OEM.
also wanted to retain the original pinion angle for rear diff when I drop it 4inches, also the reason for the adjustable panhard.
If could find a beefy set of 4 arms and the adj panhard would likely go that route since it is also my DD and budget is a concern the set I was looking at made good sense but havent heard of the brand before.

[wtfdissux2]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

If you are talking about these: Upper & Lower & Track Bar Arm For 2-4" Lift Kit 4-Runner FJ Cruiser 03-09 I would be very skeptical about the fitment as they don't list what years of 4Runner they fit.

similiar but the ones I saw were a different part number and did list 96-02. dont matter though since they went from 6 in stock to sold out the day I posted the question.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by wtfdissux2

similiar but the ones I saw were a different part number and did list 96-02. dont matter though since they went from 6 in stock to sold out the day I posted the question.

Strange. That’s the only part number they show on their website for 4Runners.