[Canlady44]

Originally Posted by alia176

Your ABS ecu is engaging the ABS solenoid valves because it thinks your wheels are locked up. The sensors are magenetic hall effect sensors so I'd pull them out and clean off the metal shavings stuck to the tip. This should be a five min job/corner.

Let us know if this works!

Would it be safe to assume the issue is in the front since the issue only occurs when in 4wd? Also just to be sure you're suggesting to pull each ABS sensor on the wheel hub and clean the sensors?

May have nothing or something to do with this issue but when draining my front differential recently it was noticeably darker than my other differential as well as the t-case. Just trying to provide as much info for this as possible seeing that it's been happening for while

[evamoly]

Having some residual idling issues after fuel injector replacement on my 1999 with 205k.

Sorry it's a bit long winded but potentially relevant backstory-
Last August I was in the middle of a road trip when I got flashing CEL and drove (gently) it about 50 miles to the nearest shop with a pronounced misfire (car shaking badly). Tried a new plug and coil pack, but ultimately injector #1 was replaced. Once replaced, it ran well, sounded fine, and I drove it from the Mojave back to the Bay Area. Since then, I’ve noticed poor fuel economy but wasn’t sure whether this was always the case or I’m just doing more city driving.

A couple weeks ago, flashing CEL again, code read cylinder 4 misfire. I thought it has to be the fuel injector since #4 was probably the same age as #1 that gave out. I ordered a set of 6 flow matched injectors from Motor West and installed them myself thanks to some helpful video tutorials. I replaced the plugs with all dual ground plugs at the same time, and noticed a little bit of grease on the plug interface of the #1 coil pack (from the mechanic who did injector #1?). The misfire persisted despite the CEL no longer showing. I finally went ahead and did what I should have done earlier and replaced the wires and applied dielectric grease on the plug connections. No more misfire!

While the misfire is thankfully gone, I've driven about 30 miles and the engine sounds a little different and is idling differently as well. It almost sounds like a small diesel engine. Typically during a cold start, it used to rev to about 1500 and within a minute come down to around 750. Now, it lingers around 1350 until the engine is fully warmed up, but won’t drop below 1000 unless I put it in gear. Even after driving around it tends to idle around 1000 for a bit before coming down. And strangely, tonight after a short trip across town, I put it in park and it reverted to the quiet, normal (non-diesel sound) idle that I’m used to.

So with this background info, would anyone have a suggestion for what to look at to get it back to normal idling condition?

A couple ideas…
-while doing the injectors, I disturbed or did not properly replace a vacuum hose (nothing hanging loose as far as I can see and i was careful to tape the corresponding connections)
-could some valve damage have occurred during the misfiring episode(s)?
-dielectric grease is causing connection issues?

Thanks for any ideas.

[I❤️4runners]

I've been wanting to swap the rear drums on my '96 3rd gen to disks and decided to wait to do so until I needed to do a brake job. That time is almost upon me so I was wondering if anyone has done this and could recommend a good disc brake swap kit? Thanks!

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by I❤️4runners

I've been wanting to swap the rear drums on my '96 3rd gen to disks and decided to wait to do so until I needed to do a brake job. That time is almost upon me so I was wondering if anyone has done this and could recommend a good disc brake swap kit? Thanks!

How are you at fabricating? There was one guy that made a kit, but he’s not making them anymore. Apart from that there’s a few different options that people have custom fabbed. Try looking through some of these options by putting this in google: site:toyota-4Runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/ rear disc brakes

[Toya!]

Hopefully a quick question, i cannot seem to get my handbrake to work. I have gone through almost everything regarding the handbrake setup from the FSM and it will not hold the truck. Now it will "hold the truck" on a completely flat surface but not on an angle. The handbrake is very tight, where 5 clicks would use a ton of strength. My buddies 3rd gen pulls very easy to 9 clicks and would hold the truck on any kind of angle. Everything moves freely (bell cranks, auto adjuster, hand brake, and cable). What the heck is going on? It is stock height so I dont think it would be stretched out or kinked. Anyone ran into this problem?

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Toya!

Hopefully a quick question, i cannot seem to get my handbrake to work. I have gone through almost everything regarding the handbrake setup from the FSM and it will not hold the truck. Now it will "hold the truck" on a completely flat surface but not on an angle. The handbrake is very tight, where 5 clicks would use a ton of strength. My buddies 3rd gen pulls very easy to 9 clicks and would hold the truck on any kind of angle. Everything moves freely (bell cranks, auto adjuster, hand brake, and cable). What the heck is going on? It is stock height so I dont think it would be stretched out or kinked. Anyone ran into this problem?

The pivot equalizer arm on the diff moving freely?

[Aurastyz]

I bought a 99 4Runner Limited 2x4 that has no master key/keys.
So I've been scouring Facebook Market place looking for donor parts.
Keys & Fobs, Ignition, Immobilzer, and an ECU- (maybe? I have one) All from one vehicle. But I see a recurring theme-

I see that 99 4Runner Limited ECUs (used) but why is it just the ECU?
Doesn't the ECU need the whole ignition system in order for the engine to start? Do I need to buy 2x4 ECU or do I just get the whole ignition system?
Can a separate ignition + immoblizer be pair with my current ECU?
I'm wanting to buy a whole dash with all the components so that it's plug and play. But people selling for the majority are without the ECU.

[Toya!]

Originally Posted by spartacus

The pivot equalizer arm on the diff moving freely?

Is this the arm that translates the movement from the driver side drum to passenger? If so then yes it is

Edit* I should also state that it pulls equally (at least I am 99% sure it does)

[spartacus]

[QUOTE=Toya!;3788016]Is this the arm that translates the movement from the driver side drum to passenger? If so then yes it is

Edit* I should also state that it pulls equally (at least I am 99% sure it does)[/QUOTE

yup that's the pivot arm. The bell crank can be adjusted by removing the rubber plug on the back plate also driving in reverse and pulling the hand brake might help. The fsm suggest 7 to 9 clicks to set the parking brake.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Aurastyz

I bought a 99 4Runner Limited 2x4 that has no master key/keys.
So I've been scouring Facebook Market place looking for donor parts.
Keys & Fobs, Ignition, Immobilzer, and an ECU- (maybe? I have one) All from one vehicle. But I see a recurring theme-

I see that 99 4Runner Limited ECUs (used) but why is it just the ECU?
Doesn't the ECU need the whole ignition system in order for the engine to start? Do I need to buy 2x4 ECU or do I just get the whole ignition system?
Can a separate ignition + immoblizer be pair with my current ECU?
I'm wanting to buy a whole dash with all the components so that it's plug and play. But people selling for the majority are without the ECU.

The immobilizer is in the ECU. You will need to find someone capable of wiping all the keys learned in the immobilizer and programming new keys with transmitters.

[Toya!]

[QUOTE=spartacus;3788024]

Originally Posted by Toya!

Is this the arm that translates the movement from the driver side drum to passenger? If so then yes it is

Edit* I should also state that it pulls equally (at least I am 99% sure it does)[/QUOTE

yup that's the pivot arm. The bell crank can be adjusted by removing the rubber plug on the back plate also driving in reverse and pulling the hand brake might help. The fsm suggest 7 to 9 clicks to set the parking brake.

Bell cranks were adjusted per FSM and drums were adjusted using the parking brake. the parking brake went from very easy to pull (but never holding) to very difficult to pull (again never holding and even over adjusting)

[ColoMtnMan]

I moved my happy self and dinged 3rd G 4Runner to Flagstaff. Looking for knowledgeable friendly shop. Also, interested in some aftermarket under armor and bumps.

Thanks in advance!

[BartT4R]

I’ll try and leave this brief

I have a 2000 T4R hassling me with a crank no start. Motor is a 5VZ. Backstory is I noticed a leak coming from my water pump and decided to do a timing belt change while I was in there (I’m at 197k so it’s about due anyways).

I get done with timing belt and after everything is bolted back together, crank no start. For just a second it really sounded like it wanted to. This T4R ran great before doing this job, no issues.

I initially believed maybe I messed up the timing and pulled the dust cover. After several manual rotations everything still lined up to TDC. No missing teeth on crank gear. I read approx 190-210 RPM on OBDII when cranking.

I didn’t unplug much in the sense of connections while doing the job, and all plugs and vacuum hoses are connected. All grounds appear to be grounded with no corrosion.

No blown fuses, all relays seem to be in working order (COR and EFI relay good).

I pulled plug boots off on driver side and had weak spark from all 3. Initially I changed just the plugs (NGK 3967), still weak spark. I changed the wires (NGK 4412) and now I have no spark. Even tried putting the factory wires back on and still no spark. Fuses still check out.

Ignition packs are receiving ~12.25V with key to ON position.

I am getting fuel to the cylinders as one time I forgot to pull the EFI fuse while checking spark and plugs came out smelling of gas. I’ve also tried using starter fluid to get it to start, no luck.

Compression is low amongst cylinders but not much difference between the 6. Compression test was done with a cold engine.

Ignition packs OHM out within spec. Spark plug wires OHM out to spec from what I can find on the forums (both old OEM and new NGK)

Of course Now I am leaning towards possibly a bad ICM or even the ECM. But I want to pick y’all’s mind and maybe I’ve missed or ignored something up to this point. Any ideas? Don’t want to dive too deep if it’s in fact something simple I’ve overlooked

Thanks for any suggestions

[PeteCain]

Hey all,

Yesterday, after driving behind a very slow Hummer for a few miles, my CEL popped on. Ran the code and it came back with a P0420. I've read a handful of the threads on here about it but haven't really found any answers.

A little background:
- I just passed emissions on February 27th
- Coolant was really low last night, so I topped that off
- I don't have any rotten egg smell or rattling that would lead me to believe it's a Cat issue
- I tend to let my car warm up for possibly too long on the cold Utah mornings. I read something about that being problematic...?

Should I start with O2 sensors? Anything else to look for to be able to pinpoint a diagnosis? I just did my head gasket in March of 2021, so I'm hoping it's nothing as big as that. Thanks for your collective wisdom

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by PeteCain

Hey all,

Yesterday, after driving behind a very slow Hummer for a few miles, my CEL popped on. Ran the code and it came back with a P0420. I've read a handful of the threads on here about it but haven't really found any answers.

A little background:
- I just passed emissions on February 27th
- Coolant was really low last night, so I topped that off
- I don't have any rotten egg smell or rattling that would lead me to believe it's a Cat issue
- I tend to let my car warm up for possibly too long on the cold Utah mornings. I read something about that being problematic...?

Should I start with O2 sensors? Anything else to look for to be able to pinpoint a diagnosis? I just did my head gasket in March of 2021, so I'm hoping it's nothing as big as that. Thanks for your collective wisdom

Slow driving like you are describing is known to cause P0420 code to appear. I would clear the code and keep driving. If it comes back then I would start diagnosing it.