[habanero]

Originally Posted by clearock

@habanero also pointed out one can... mine info is either dated or completely incorrect even before 2024, I've been going off what a yard told me yrs ago. I tried to look up a Federal law and couldn't find anything, did find info about the hassle a yard has to go through to make sure there wasn't any recall on the airbags, guessing I was just given the "**** off" answer because they get tired of telling people they don't sell said and I have been repeating what I was told. Glad u got what u needed.

You would have been and are correct up until recently. Selling airbags (at least around here) is a newer thing- they were no way no how off limits before they weren't.
If my idea of a good time wasn't poking around the self-serve junkyards chances are I wouldn't have known that either.

[trashboy]

Originally Posted by clearock

@habanero also pointed out one can... my info is either dated or completely incorrect even before 2024, I've been going off what a yard told me yrs ago. I tried to look up a Federal law and couldn't find anything, did find info about the hassle a yard has to go through to make sure there wasn't any recall on the airbags, guessing I was just given the "**** off" answer because they get tired of telling people they don't sell said and I have been repeating what I was told. Glad u got what u needed.

to be completely honest, i think the yard that i got my airbag from is probably just doing something under the table rather than you getting a wrong answer. i cant find it either, but i do remember seeing that you can only sell airbags as a "certified" vendor (even if they are used).

the yard you went to probably was just following procedure

[alex9000]

Does anyone have info/links on installing an LED strip behind the cluster? My bulbs are out and I have a 12v strip here, just not sure about placement/getting even lighting

[TCT4Rillz]

Hey all, new to the thread and I cant get a solid answer to my problem so figured I would try to post and see if any of yall could help me out.
I had a friend help me out and lift my 2001 4runner last weekend, got bilstein 5100’s, OME springs, total chaos UCA’s, diff drop, and OME lower ball joints, plus 17” wheels w/ 33” falken rubitreks. Also have the eimkeith Panhard correction kit and extended rear brake lines but both of those are not put in yet, those will be put on soon.
Now enough backstory and to my question.
After the lift I drove it home with caution to make sure everything was fine, it was super windy that day so I was being pushed around a bit so I figured it was just wind… cut to the day after and still till today the rear end feels.. “loose” for a lack of a better term. When I am driving at low speed, say >40-45mph everything feels great, but once i get to 50 and above the rear end feels like it is wandering side to side and when it pulls too far to one side i have to SLIGHTLY correct it back to straight and if move the wheel too much it will overcorrect and then i have to fight it back to straight. It also snowed here yesterday and oh man that was bad.. i took it out in the snow slicked roads and I had to go SLOW, if i would go above say 20mph the rear end would start fishtailing and feel like it was going to spin out.. that was kinda scary lol. Anytime i hit a slick spot i feel the rear end go side to side. So I was thinking it has to be panhard bar since it is sitting an angle now and not level due to the 3” lift but anytime I research panhard bar problems its always people having problems on bumps only causing bumpsteer so now im not sure. My buddy said the rear lower control arm bushings looked fine so im not sure where i should look next if it isnt the panhard bar or lower control arms. Like I said, the eimkeith PCK will be put on very soon and I am hoping it fixes my problems but would anyone have any other ideas/has anyone had this problem?

Thanks!

[Mendoncyclesmith]

Okay, here we go. I'm verbose, but try to use language to pain a clearer picture, so I can get the best info. If long posts bug you, please move along.

I'm a vehicular mechanical moron, as my other postings should have already pointed out. I'm also really busy as a one man business, and don't have endless hours to pore over endless reams of info, all from individuals with varying degrees of knowledge, cross referencing to confirm validity etc. I'm a long time bicycle mechanic and in that world, I am well versed in how many, just horrible ideas and bad info is available for the picking, on line.....

So, with that in mind, I have two different things I need help with understanding better.

Front end suspension/wheel anatomy. I've done a bunch of stuff over the last few years, much of it without knowing WTF I was doing. What I am looking to figure out is, what, if anything else, I should be addressing on a vehicle with 140K on her, given the updates I've done, how they interact with the rest of the system, and my plans to start to use it a bit more off road.

Done:

34" tires (working on clearancing, but I'm close).

New axles/CV's since the boots all exploded seemingly at once.

New lower ball joints (OEM as strongly suggested).

2" OME suspension lift.

2.5" leveling kit pucks at the tops of the strut towers.



In the works come April when she gets out of the barn:

Lower control arm bushings.

Caster adjustment cam since mine are frozen, preventing a full, proper alignment (but I'm really close, so it drives well).

Brand new JBA upper control arms to help with moving the tires forward in the wheel wells a bit for clearance.


What else is in that system? Sway bars and Stabilizer arms. Is that it?

I know I have little boots on one of those items (sorry, told you I was clueless) that are shredded, and my mechanic said not a big deal as they seemed tight and functional, and I just drive it in the summer.

I've found sway bars that are adjustable to deal with lifts, which I have. Smart, for the price? And, are these guys a good choice if it is a good idea?

Sway Bar Links
– DRZ OFF ROAD

I don't even understand what stabilizer bars do, but my reading seems to imply they are good till they break, and not to worry otherwise. I am thinking those are the things with the torn boots though, which bugs me.



And second.

On here, I was told by a few members, in passing, that "suspension lift and leveling blocks are fine, but do have drawbacks".

I have the same 2" OME suspension lift out back, as well as a 1.25" spring block to get rid of the out of level look created when the 2.5's up front, simply flipped the problem I was trying to correct.

What other lift types exist, and how serious a safety or mechanical failure issue am I facing with the parts I have.

No rock crawling or crazy extreme articulation plans, but who knows how big a rock, or log, or something I might encounter is and I don't want the body falling off the frame or whatever befalls the less than proper lifting that's been done.

With these things answered, I'll be able to hand my mechanic a pile of smart parts come Spring, wait a week, and be driving a nice, stable, good looking, highly functional off road truck without worrying about some $100 part that I shoulda, coulda, woulda....

Thanks all!

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by alex9000

Does anyone have info/links on installing an LED strip behind the cluster? My bulbs are out and I have a 12v strip here, just not sure about placement/getting even lighting

It would be far easier to just replace the instrument cluster bulbs.

[gopokes22]

I had this issue last month but was cranking, threw it in neutral pumped the brakes and got it to start, hadn't had an issue since. This week it has been below 10 degrees most of the week, and now it won't crank at all, battery is running 12v, I am thinking it's fuel related but am not completely sure, I have read start relay could be the culprit but I don't think it is. Any help would be great!!

[Twisted Sid]

Originally Posted by TCT4Rillz

Hey all, new to the thread and I cant get a solid answer to my problem so figured I would try to post and see if any of yall could help me out.
I had a friend help me out and lift my 2001 4runner last weekend, got bilstein 5100’s, OME springs, total chaos UCA’s, diff drop, and OME lower ball joints, plus 17” wheels w/ 33” falken rubitreks. Also have the eimkeith Panhard correction kit and extended rear brake lines but both of those are not put in yet, those will be put on soon.
Now enough backstory and to my question.
After the lift I drove it home with caution to make sure everything was fine, it was super windy that day so I was being pushed around a bit so I figured it was just wind… cut to the day after and still till today the rear end feels.. “loose” for a lack of a better term. When I am driving at low speed, say >40-45mph everything feels great, but once i get to 50 and above the rear end feels like it is wandering side to side and when it pulls too far to one side i have to SLIGHTLY correct it back to straight and if move the wheel too much it will overcorrect and then i have to fight it back to straight. It also snowed here yesterday and oh man that was bad.. i took it out in the snow slicked roads and I had to go SLOW, if i would go above say 20mph the rear end would start fishtailing and feel like it was going to spin out.. that was kinda scary lol. Anytime i hit a slick spot i feel the rear end go side to side. So I was thinking it has to be panhard bar since it is sitting an angle now and not level due to the 3” lift but anytime I research panhard bar problems its always people having problems on bumps only causing bumpsteer so now im not sure. My buddy said the rear lower control arm bushings looked fine so im not sure where i should look next if it isnt the panhard bar or lower control arms. Like I said, the eimkeith PCK will be put on very soon and I am hoping it fixes my problems but would anyone have any other ideas/has anyone had this problem?

Thanks!

After doing all that work and adding on new parts, did you take it in for an alignment?

[alex9000]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

It would be far easier to just replace the instrument cluster bulbs.

It's very true but I am sort of planning to put a multi color LED strip and arduino controller behind the OEM knob so I can rave out down the highway

[TCT4Rillz]

Originally Posted by Twisted Sid

After doing all that work and adding on new parts, did you take it in for an alignment?

So my friend did the alignment for me right after doing all the work. He works at a shop so he had everything there. I was thinking maybe i should take it for another alignment just to double check but I was going to wait till after the eimkeith PCK was added. Should I just get another alignment done before that anyways you think?

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by TCT4Rillz

So my friend did the alignment for me right after doing all the work. He works at a shop so he had everything there. I was thinking maybe i should take it for another alignment just to double check but I was going to wait till after the eimkeith PCK was added. Should I just get another alignment done before that anyways you think?

The PCK will have no bearing on front end alignment so it doesn't matter, but it will most certainly help the rear end track. Sounds like your bushings are shot too. I know that exact feeling you're talking about; went away after new trailing arm and panhard bushings for me
Unless you have little faith and trust in your friends I don't see much reason to get another alignment. I would chalk my tires and check wear first personally if you're skeptical for some reason

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by Mendoncyclesmith

2" OME suspension lift.

2.5" leveling kit pucks at the tops of the strut towers.


I have the same 2" OME suspension lift out back, as well as a 1.25" spring block to get rid of the out of level look created when the 2.5's up front, simply flipped the problem I was trying to correct.

What other lift types exist, and how serious a safety or mechanical failure issue am I facing with the parts I have.

If you really have 4.5" of lift on the front and 3.25" on the back, you are setting yourself up for problems - especially that much lift in the front. There will be very little droop travel in the front (like, 1"?) that will make things very harsh and unsafe and ruin off road performance. There are similar issues in the rear that can be somewhat mitigated by longer shocks and bump stop spacers - but the link geometry still isn't great with tall lifts.

If you want the truck up that high, reducing the suspension lift and adding a body lift might be better overall, and will help you clear those 34" tires.

Your swaybar bushings and links may be worn out, but the bars themselves are probably fine. They will also be needed for 'stable' on road performance, but the front can be removed if you want better off road performance. The rear doesn't limit articulation and aides in stability.

-Charlie

[Endlessblockades]

Originally Posted by TCT4Rillz

So my friend did the alignment for me right after doing all the work. He works at a shop so he had everything there. I was thinking maybe i should take it for another alignment just to double check but I was going to wait till after the eimkeith PCK was added. Should I just get another alignment done before that anyways you think?

Which OME springs are you running in the rear?

[Endlessblockades]

Originally Posted by Mendoncyclesmith

I've found sway bars that are adjustable to deal with lifts, which I have. Smart, for the price? And, are these guys a good choice if it is a good idea?

Sway Bar Links
– DRZ OFF ROAD

I don't even understand what stabilizer bars do, but my reading seems to imply they are good till they break, and not to worry otherwise. I am thinking those are the things with the torn boots though, which bugs me.

Those end links look a lot like the original Heim joint design that occasional t4r.org forum member @MStudt of Overland Custom Designs sells. I was under the impression he made them in-house. He still sells the Heim versions but released an updated forged ball joint version for more $ (and less headaches?). I have heard of noise issues but have never heard a peep out of my forged sets. OCDs are fully rebuildable and he sells all the small parts. You can find sway bar end link info at the OCD site:

Heim Joint Sway Bar Links
– Overland Custom Design

(not trying to drive business away from the other seller - just sharing info)

[TCT4Rillz]

Originally Posted by Devbot

The PCK will have no bearing on front end alignment so it doesn't matter, but it will most certainly help the rear end track. Sounds like your bushings are shot too. I know that exact feeling you're talking about; went away after new trailing arm and panhard bushings for me
Unless you have little faith and trust in your friends I don't see much reason to get another alignment. I would chalk my tires and check wear first personally if you're skeptical for some reason

Thanks for the input man. I definitely trust my friend haha I am just always a double checker with things. But little update.

I checked the tire pressures and they were all at 29psi. I am running 285/70/17 E load Falken Rubitreks and I looked up what most people are running their 285/70/17s at and I was seeing a lot of 36-45psi answers so I went with 38psi on all tires.
Took it out for a test ride and handling immediately felt so much better. ESPECIALLY in turns where i always felt worried in since the back end would feel delayed and wobble. I still felt a little bit of wandering but pretty minimal and mostly when i went over bumps. Still have the bumpsteer too.
I also did a bushing check I saw on YouTube. I looked underneath at the track bar as my dad turned the wheel left and right and I saw absolutely no movement in the bar at either mounting point. If you or anyone have any other suggestions on how to spot bad bushings I am all ears! Also all ears on tire PSI.. I am thinking about going up to ~44psi maybe and seeing how it feels then going down as needed but for now 38 feels good.