[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by alex9000

Are there any resources kicking around for a LHD to RHD swap? Thinking about shipping my 4runner down under...

The whole firewall is different LHD to RHD, along with everything that bolts to it (inside and out), dash, wiring harnesses, AC lines, steering rack and crossmember on frame, etc.

Get a JDM Surf imported from Japan, and you can have the diesel manual of your dreams - it'll be cheaper since you basically need all the parts from one to do the conversion.

-Charlie

[woodjunkie]

Originally Posted by spartacus

COR = circuit opening relay. It functions to energize the fuel pump whike starting and motor running. In our trucks it's the EFI relay.

Not so fast there, Boss.

I am looking at the Toyota Shop Manual for the 1997 4runner.

Page DI-148 is a 'Parts Location' diagram.

It shows an 'EFI Main Relay' as being located in the fuse box under hood the driver's side.

It ALSO shows a 'Circuit Opening Relay' as being located in a nebulous no-man's-land that may be under the hood, but may be under the dash!

I have been struggling with a crank-no start mystery, and this shop manual lists the COR as something that must be checked if there's no voltage at the pump.

I have been beating my head against the wall for the better part of a day and a half trying to locate that silly ^&$%#@#$$@, and I'm beginning to believe it's a hoax.

Any ideas?

Edited to add, I have been trying to upload the relevant page from the shop manual, but I guess I don't have those privileges yet.

Help!

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by woodjunkie

Not so fast there, Boss.

I am looking at the Toyota Shop Manual for the 1997 4runner.

Page DI-148 is a 'Parts Location' diagram.

It shows an 'EFI Main Relay' as being located in the fuse box under hood the driver's side.

It ALSO shows a 'Circuit Opening Relay' as being located in a nebulous no-man's-land that may be under the hood, but may be under the dash!

I have been struggling with a crank-no start mystery, and this shop manual lists the COR as something that must be checked if there's no voltage at the pump.

I have been beating my head against the wall for the better part of a day and a half trying to locate that silly ^&$%#@#$$@, and I'm beginning to believe it's a hoax.

Any ideas?

Edited to add, I have been trying to upload the relevant page from the shop manual, but I guess I don't have those privileges yet.

Help!

#5 is the COR link shows location. TOYOTA 4RUNNERVZN185L-GKPZKA - ELECTRICAL - SWITCH RELAY COMPUTER | Japan Parts EU

[woodjunkie]

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

#5 is the COR link shows location. TOYOTA 4RUNNERVZN185L-GKPZKA - ELECTRICAL - SWITCH RELAY COMPUTER | Japan Parts EU

OK. I sure am glad that makes sense to somebody, and I'm damn near depressed that it makes no sense to me.

I'm pretty sure I am such a newb that I can't upload images yet, or I would mark up that page of the catalog you posted to try and get a handle on this thing. . .

OR, I could look in the service manual! HAHA HA! I'm an even bigger moron than I ever suspected! I bought a copy of the service manual the day after I dragged this beast home, and I have yet to comprehend its immense power.

The most expensive book I ever bought.

According to the Manual, the reason I can't find the COR is because I haven't dismantled enough of the dashboard!

I do appreciate your response, RedRunner, and when I get her going, I'll crack a coldie in your honor.

Thanks!

John

[woodjunkie]

So, yeah. I've been looking for that thing for a couple of days. I had the answer in a book right in front of me the whole time, and once I figured that out I removed, tested and reinstalled it in less than 10 minutes.

Ugh!

[96RedRunner]

That's called trouble with the curve. The learning curve that is, all been there.

[toyhoda14runner]

Welp. Just like everyone else, was able to disconnect the rear nut to tank. Front one is 1000% seized. Spent days preparing by spraying free all before i even touched the thing. I tried flare wrench, vise grips and more but to no avail, needless to say i rounded the nut off. Ive seen people have success with cutting it out and replacing it using those fuel line repair kits. I guess my question is what specifically do i need? Im
fine with going rubber, i dont care. I just need it the filter replaced asap, even more so because when i got the rear nut loose the fuel that came out from the filter was very dark brown. This is my first post so my apologies if its in the wrong place or if i did something wrong. Please someone help me. I took a couple pics for reference but i dont see an upload image button anywhere!!

[DJRodriguez88]

Originally Posted by toyhoda14runner

Welp... Front one is 1000% seized... i rounded the nut off

You can pull that whole hard line out of another 4runner from the junkyard or someone's parts car on craigslist/offerup. It's only held in by some clips and 2 flare nuts.

[toy0da]

Hello,

I just had a tune-up which included oil change, plugs/wires, air/fuel filters, timing belt, PCV valve, o2 sensors, etc. All of the parts were from eBay. The timing belt claimed to be OEM (and it was packaged in Toyota packaging) but I had a friend who works at Toyota install it for me and he said that it wasn't OEM.

Anyways, since the install, I have 2 issues. One of them is my CEL with code P0125 (replace thermostat), and the other is my gas mileage decreasing. I used to get steady mid 15s. Now I get low 15s, high 14s, and recently hit mid 14s. There is no difference in the way the vehicle drives, the way I drive it, the gas I put in it, where I live/drive it, etc. What could be causing this? My friend who installed it said that he had to reuse the o2 sensor gaskets and recommended I change those out for new ones. And also, the o2 sensors were eBay too.

And about the CEL, how important is this? The coolant is fine (no leaks) and temps seem to be operating as usual. Again, this did not come on until after the major tune-up, and there is no difference in the way vehicle runs. Also, I had to change my battery and the CEL remained. So a "reset" didn't fix it either.

TIA

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by toy0da

All of the parts were from eBay.

Well, you are lucky the 5VZ is non-interference. Unless those parts came from a verified/real Toyota dealer selling parts on eBay (there are a few), then EVERYTHING you got is a knock-off and is unlikely to work as designed.

For the coolant temp CEL, get an OBD-II reader that can report live data and see what it says. It should be between 185-195*F at basically all operating conditions after warm up (3-5 minutes unless really cold).

-Charlie

[woodjunkie]

Originally Posted by toyhoda14runner

Welp. Just like everyone else, was able to disconnect the rear nut to tank. Front one is 1000% seized. Spent days preparing by spraying free all before i even touched the thing. I tried flare wrench, vise grips and more but to no avail, needless to say i rounded the nut off. Ive seen people have success with cutting it out and replacing it using those fuel line repair kits. I guess my question is what specifically do i need? Im
fine with going rubber, i dont care. I just need it the filter replaced asap, even more so because when i got the rear nut loose the fuel that came out from the filter was very dark brown. This is my first post so my apologies if its in the wrong place or if i did something wrong. Please someone help me. I took a couple pics for reference but i dont see an upload image button anywhere!!

Hey, man!

I just got done with a fuel pump swap on my '97, and yes, somebody on the assembly line must have got his Newtons mixed up with his inch-pounds, 'cause the fittings on that fuel line were cinched up tighter'n Dicks hat band. WAY over tightened to the point where the threads had been stretched out of spec. I finally just unscrewed it from the filter and took the whole assembly to the bench room, and we're talking STANDING ON THE WRENCHES to get them to turn. I got about 6 turns on one of those couplings and it dawned on me that it didn't MATTER if I ever got the joint to separate because the threads were ruined the day that truck came off the line.

I cut away the ruined portion and replaced it with injector-rated rubber and 2 of the injector-rated clamps on each end.

No issues with the redneck retrofit SO FAR, but I'm guessing the purists will be along shortly . . .

[woodjunkie]

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

#5 is the COR link shows location. TOYOTA 4RUNNERVZN185L-GKPZKA - ELECTRICAL - SWITCH RELAY COMPUTER | Japan Parts EU

Thanks again, Red.

I got Madame Butterfly up and going yesterday, so a Ranger IPA in your honor!

I discovered that the fuel pump was locked up tight, and there was a 30-amp, in-line fuse located right behind the battery that was blown.

I don't know whether one has anything to do with the other, but she goes like stink, so I'm OK with that remaining a mystery.

Onward!

[3bears]

I have posted in the parts wanted section, ive gone on ebay, I contacted the guy in marysville washington who parts out 4runners, in the thread of jasons aftermarket spoilers I posted asking if anyone had just the feet, since they might be taking off a stock unit, , I only have 2 wrecking yards within 300 miles and no luck ( well everyone wants to sell with the deflector) and shipping of all to alaska is spendy, so I am gonna ask here


so I took off my rear wind deflector and feet to repaint, then things happened and I did not get my deflector mounted back up, then I moved, and have lost just the "feet" and all the screws that attaches the stock air deflector to the tailgate


anybody got some ?

[jimmyo]

Originally Posted by toy0da

Hello,

I just had a tune-up which included oil change, plugs/wires, air/fuel filters, timing belt, PCV valve, o2 sensors, etc. All of the parts were from eBay. The timing belt claimed to be OEM (and it was packaged in Toyota packaging) but I had a friend who works at Toyota install it for me and he said that it wasn't OEM.

Anyways, since the install, I have 2 issues. One of them is my CEL with code P0125 (replace thermostat), and the other is my gas mileage decreasing. I used to get steady mid 15s. Now I get low 15s, high 14s, and recently hit mid 14s. There is no difference in the way the vehicle drives, the way I drive it, the gas I put in it, where I live/drive it, etc. What could be causing this? My friend who installed it said that he had to reuse the o2 sensor gaskets and recommended I change those out for new ones. And also, the o2 sensors were eBay too.

And about the CEL, how important is this? The coolant is fine (no leaks) and temps seem to be operating as usual. Again, this did not come on until after the major tune-up, and there is no difference in the way vehicle runs. Also, I had to change my battery and the CEL remained. So a "reset" didn't fix it either.

TIA

This means your truck is staying in an open loop which is used on start up before the engine warms up. That is why your mileage went down. Does the engine feel warm/hot to you? If so, either there is air in your cooling system, or the coolant temp sensor is bad, or the coolant sensor wiring is bad. Since you just had your timing belt done, I would look at the wiring to the sensor, or make sure the cooling system has been properly filled. You don't want the drive around all the time with your truck ECU thinking that the engine is cold.

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by woodjunkie

Thanks again, Red.

I got Madame Butterfly up and going yesterday, so a Ranger IPA in your honor!

I discovered that the fuel pump was locked up tight, and there was a 30-amp, in-line fuse located right behind the battery that was blown.

I don't know whether one has anything to do with the other, but she goes like stink, so I'm OK with that remaining a mystery.

Onward!

3-4 fingers of 1792 full proof neat at cha for the win.

Madame Butterfly Lenny Kravitz? popped in my head.