[highmilage4runner]

I am new here but a long time lurker. I cannot start a new thread so I thought Id take a shot asking here. Recently purchased a '02 4 runner 4wd limited with 328k on the clock. Started to have a slight hesitation at highway speeds from 2-3k rpm. This progressed and got way way worse to the point it cannot go up hills anymore. Cannot rev past 3500 anymore unless the A/F sensor is unplugged. Idles fine, and is recently taking a longer time to crank.
Things that have been replaced or swapped with no change
Plugs
coils
wires
MAF
A/F and rear O2 sensor (both OEM)
Entire throttle assembly (TPS, throttle motor, etc.)
Crank sensor
According to first dealer Compression and fuel pressure are perfect.
No vaccum leaks
CAT allegedly is good but I may check again.
Timing belt water pump and all tensioners were done in last 25k miles.
ECU swap with programmed unit from flagship one.

Of note: it does not hesistate in limp mode. When in regular mode it smells like straight fuel out of the exhaust. Running extremely rich. Out of limp mode it will rev and then drop 300-500 revs like someone took their foot off the throttle.

The issue progressively got worse.
Im down to about 40 hp or less these days. Shop and dealer have no idea what is happening and have never seen anything similar.

Does anyone know something else I should try/test/check that could cause this? Dealer said car is mechanically perfect and they're quite confused.

Thanks,

Wyatt

[isaakc004]

Does anyone know the thread size for part #90168-40122 ? The screws for my corner/marker lights disappeared and I need some new ones

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by highmilage4runner

I am new here but a long time lurker. I cannot start a new thread so I thought Id take a shot asking here. Recently purchased a '02 4 runner 4wd limited with 328k on the clock. Started to have a slight hesitation at highway speeds from 2-3k rpm. This progressed and got way way worse to the point it cannot go up hills anymore. Cannot rev past 3500 anymore unless the A/F sensor is unplugged. Idles fine, and is recently taking a longer time to crank.
Things that have been replaced or swapped with no change
Plugs
coils
wires
MAF
A/F and rear O2 sensor (both OEM)
Entire throttle assembly (TPS, throttle motor, etc.)
Crank sensor
According to first dealer Compression and fuel pressure are perfect.
No vaccum leaks
CAT allegedly is good but I may check again.
Timing belt water pump and all tensioners were done in last 25k miles.
ECU swap with programmed unit from flagship one.

Of note: it does not hesistate in limp mode. When in regular mode it smells like straight fuel out of the exhaust. Running extremely rich. Out of limp mode it will rev and then drop 300-500 revs like someone took their foot off the throttle.

The issue progressively got worse.
Im down to about 40 hp or less these days. Shop and dealer have no idea what is happening and have never seen anything similar.

Does anyone know something else I should try/test/check that could cause this? Dealer said car is mechanically perfect and they're quite confused.

Thanks,

Wyatt

How long you've been using that ECU? I would highly suspect it over anything else if it hasn't been long.

[96RedRunner]

What he said @Devbot . Where does ecu fit into timing of fubar?

[AldoDector]

No Crank No Power

I have a 1998 4runner SR5 3.4. As the title states it has no crank no start, as soon as I click the key onto on everything dims except for some lights on the dash. This has been an issue for a couple months now I just never was able to get to work on it/ didn’t know where to start I did have a crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor code but I cleared it and was able to start up. I had a mechanic looking at it for like 1-2 months, however Iknow he wasn’t putting in the amount of effort I required because he gave up. Anyways, I decided to take a look and plugged in my obd scanner to see if anything came up and noticed that I got full power and it started right up, it did die as soon as I turned my lights on, signals made it bog down but went back up to idle. I read someone say they had a loose pcm (this is ecu right?) ground cable and it fixed it, according to the diagrams below the ground I checked was fine and I even checked it in another location, which was on the left side intake manifold. I decided to look at fuses and noticed my power 30A was missing, interior driver side fuse box, i think the guy looking at it must’ve took it out and never replaced it because he did say he was messing with them but never specified what he did. What do you guys think the issue could be? Bad ground + the power fuse? My ECU? This all happened when I was going over a bunch of dirt bumps and it just died on me so I could suspect something came loose.

[Boom_ROASTED]

hoping for some battery/starter related direction before I start poking around

My 2000 sat for nearly 2 months if not more, during which I crank it up a few times besides the last 2 or 3 weeks and then I got in it yesterday and it won't start. Not a peep. I charged the battery ~18 hours (LED shows green "charged") and everything seems normal inside, lights on etc, but nothing happens when I turn the key. I was able to jump it off of my girlfriend's car and let it run for ~10 minutes, turned it off and notice a lack-of-sound where I expected a sound (starter?) immediately after turning off the ignition. I immediately try to crank it bank up and again, not a peep.

The battery is maybe a year old, definitely less than 2, so I'm thinking starter but I am not good with electrical stuff. Like I said it sat for a while so I'm also thinking a bad connection to the starter could also be a possibility.

I just wanted to see what you folks thought about it before I get in there.

Thanks!

[AuSeeker]

Originally Posted by Boom_ROASTED

hoping for some battery/starter related direction before I start poking around

My 2000 sat for nearly 2 months if not more, during which I crank it up a few times besides the last 2 or 3 weeks and then I got in it yesterday and it won't start. Not a peep. I charged the battery ~18 hours (LED shows green "charged") and everything seems normal inside, lights on etc, but nothing happens when I turn the key. I was able to jump it off of my girlfriend's car and let it run for ~10 minutes, turned it off and notice a lack-of-sound where I expected a sound (starter?) immediately after turning off the ignition. I immediately try to crank it bank up and again, not a peep.

The battery is maybe a year old, definitely less than 2, so I'm thinking starter but I am not good with electrical stuff. Like I said it sat for a while so I'm also thinking a bad connection to the starter could also be a possibility.

I just wanted to see what you folks thought about it before I get in there.

Thanks!

I would say not your starter or jumping it wouldn't work, more likely a bad battery connection and or bad ground connection

[AuSeeker]

Originally Posted by Boom_ROASTED

hoping for some battery/starter related direction before I start poking around

My 2000 sat for nearly 2 months if not more, during which I crank it up a few times besides the last 2 or 3 weeks and then I got in it yesterday and it won't start. Not a peep. I charged the battery ~18 hours (LED shows green "charged") and everything seems normal inside, lights on etc, but nothing happens when I turn the key. I was able to jump it off of my girlfriend's car and let it run for ~10 minutes, turned it off and notice a lack-of-sound where I expected a sound (starter?) immediately after turning off the ignition. I immediately try to crank it bank up and again, not a peep.

The battery is maybe a year old, definitely less than 2, so I'm thinking starter but I am not good with electrical stuff. Like I said it sat for a while so I'm also thinking a bad connection to the starter could also be a possibility.

I just wanted to see what you folks thought about it before I get in there.

Thanks!

I would say not your starter or jumping it wouldn't work, more likely a bad battery and or connection and or bad ground connection, just looking to see if the "charged" light is on doesn't tell you the condition of the battery, you need to check the voltage with a multimeter, should be at least 12.3 or more volts.

[Boom_ROASTED]

Jumping it did work though. I really doubt the battery is bad but I guess anything is possible. I'll go check it with a multimeter asap tonight

[Boom_ROASTED]

Originally Posted by AuSeeker

I would say not your starter or jumping it wouldn't work, more likely a bad battery and or connection and or bad ground connection, just looking to see if the "charged" light is on doesn't tell you the condition of the battery, you need to check the voltage with a multimeter, should be at least 12.3 or more volts.

Well shit I tested it and it read ~5.5V

I called batteries plus who confirmed I bought it in 2021, older than I realized but still within the warranty period I guess. They said I had to bring it in to test it and confirm whether or not it's defective or wasn't properly maintained. Any idea how they test it and know the difference?

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by Boom_ROASTED

Any idea how they test it and know the difference?

They want you in there to sell you a new battery...

And for future reference, running the engine for 10 minutes (idling) is NOT GOOD for it. Put it on a battery tender (plug in or solar if not near a plug) and leave it alone or take it for a real drive (10+ miles).

-Charlie

[Boom_ROASTED]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

They want you in there to sell you a new battery...

And for future reference, running the engine for 10 minutes (idling) is NOT GOOD for it. Put it on a battery tender (plug in or solar if not near a plug) and leave it alone or take it for a real drive (10+ miles).

-Charlie

Had the rear axles out so I was trying to do the best, (I thought), I could. Thank you for that info though.

So it's possible the defect vs owner's fault "test" is bs?

[Humboldt4]

2001 4runner trd supercharged 350k miles. Trans out of lkq installed 30k ago and now when I come to a stop it just stalls out. It seems like the tc is staying locked up or the trans isn't shifting out of 3rd. Runs great while on the road just when you stop it stalls.

[Thatgoodfellow]

I’ve got some 906’s on the way for 4Runner and I was wondering if anyone knows the part number for the trim packer. I see the have a 10mm and a 5 mm. Thanks

[Crich1]

Hello everyone, I'm having a rough time with an electrical issue and hoping someone can give some advice. A little background on the 4runner, it is a 97 4cyl and we had an issue last year when the solenoid on the starter was stuck open and killed the battery, after replacing that it ran fine for a couple months and then died again on the highway.

Now it will start but the instrument panel doesn't work and I cannot shift out of park. I thought it might have something to do with the ecm because there was exposed wires in the wiring harness and the engine coolant sensor was fried, I patched up the harness, replaced the sensor and had the ecm tested but after all that I have the same issue. Has anyone seen anything this strange? I'm ready to role it off a cliff at this point.