Have you checked all your fuses and relays? You can override the Brake/Park safety with the switch under the cover in front of the shifter (if you need to move the 4Runner for some reason - don't drive it that way, since you are likely missing brake lights).

-Charlie

What he said ^^^. Same thing happened to me where i couldnt shift out of park, checked fuses, 2 were blown. Changed em and everything kosher. Also, the little cap thing on the shifter in the corner, remove that and press down on it and you should be able to shift. Its for towing if its disabled.

Took me nearly 2 years to realize what that was for and boy is it handy

Going to ask here before making a new thread. I've had my 4runner for a few years and haven't really driven it all that much, it's very much a third car that I use for hauling people/things, or driving off-road. I also use it for shorter around town trips when it's warm and I can drop all the windows.

Overall I love this truck and have put a considerable amount of blood, sweat and money into it (needed an engine swap, replaced almost all of the rubber on the donor engine while it was on the stand, etc.) and I want to keep this thing for as long as I can!

Long story short the rear suspension is shot, it sags and handles zero weight. If I stand on the hitch it probably drops a foot. I've done some research, and am looking hard at the OME 906/5100 combo. I am focusing more on the rears, as the front struts were replaced with OEM at the dealer by the PO about 20k miles ago, so they've got some life left in them. I'm mechanically inclined enough to do the rears, but the fronts I'm not a fan of decompressing springs so I'll likely outsource that work. Either way, if I can spend $400 and do the rears in my garage vs $1500 for a full set I'd much rather do that, but I'm not completely against doing everything in one go. My truck has 250k on it, and I'm not sure if the front springs were replaced with the struts or not.

I have some immediate needs, and some longer term wants with my build. I don't intend on making it too geared for off-road, but want to be able to do anything I want without worry. Be it hauling hundreds of pounds, towing, light/medium off-roading, etc, and I don't mind a stiffer on road ride quality.

I'd like a suspension setup that gives me a few inches of lift, 2-3 at most, allows comfortable use of 32" A/T wheels (currently on stock wheels), probably something no more aggressive than the Nitto terragrapplers. I also have a partial set of Shrockworks sliders (gas tank and transmission/transfer case) that I've been putting off installing because the sag is so pronounced. Overall stance I like a slight bit of positive rake that levels out when the truck is loaded up.

Is there anything I can get now, that I can grow into without being horribly compromised in-between? 906/5100 seems like a combo that will work well with my existing stock front end, but will it work long term?

Thanks!

Air Lift 1000 kit #60743. They can be found for less than $100. I've had mine for years with great results and versatility, and no problems.

Amazon.com

Hadn't even considered airbags. Is this something I'd put in with my tired rear suspension?

3rd gen 4 forerunner V6 running rich.
 

Hello everyone I recently ran into an issue where my forerunner stalled out at idle and smelled raw fuel coming from the engine air filter and gas smell from the exhaust. I had to tow it home that day because it would no longer turn on. I went and looked if there was any fuel in the intake manifold and there was but it wasn’t flooded. I decided I’d replace the fuel pressure regulator and so after I replaced that it turned on and no more fuel coming from the intake manifold. The issue now is that it’s still running rich and has smell of gas coming from the exhaust. I’m not sure where to go from here. I’m thinking it needs to burn off the gas off but not sure if there’s another issue causing it to run rich. Also doesn’t help that I don’t have any engine codes.

Might be a silly question but can I remove the front driveshaft on my 4x4 and drive safely without something falling out? I know some cars the diff's input shaft or the transfer case's output shaft is only held in by the driveshaft.

The truck has a spartan locker in the front and wasn't meant to be street driven much but now i need to drive it a lot more

Absolutely. You can install now without removal of shocks or springs and also use them later if/when you choose to upgrade those components.

The CVs are required to be in place to drive (they pre-load the front wheel bearings). The prop shaft from the transfer case to the front diff can be removed - but it won't change anything with the front diff - the axles are still there and spinning. The ADD system just disconnects the right front CV from the diff.

-Charlie

You can, but it might still ride like crap with bad shocks and/or bushings.

-Charlie

5100/906 will give you the buttlift you want and will still carry some decent weight/armor. What you really need are springs if they are stock. The Sag happens to every 4runner.

lets c if this gets through, the site has been login me out anytime I click anything and I have to re-login a ridicule # of times, can't reply to msgs, post etc.

think I'm done with contributing to the site

clearock
its not just you, i keep getting logged out or the site does not load. It has been very frustrating the past few days.

Its been frustrating with this forum. The site is much faster right now.