01-18-2025, 02:17 PM
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#3181
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,359
Real Name: 3 Bears
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,359
Real Name: 3 Bears
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolo-
Thanks for the info! do you know if there is a way to get rid of those cods without swapping the ECU. I have seen some things about shorting some wires or resisters or such but have not found any concrete info on what exactly to do.
Any info would be much appreciated.
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when I lived in oregon there was a shop in creswell oregon called something like toyota only swaps
their specialty was doing what you are looking to do, and they sold parts etc related
they did more than that stuff and they did some mods on one of my 3rrd gens for me, thats how I knew about them but that was maybe 8 years ago so dont know if still around
__________________
2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
2002 tundra ac v8 4wd
1969 kharmann ghia
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01-19-2025, 11:43 PM
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#3182
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2025
Location: California
Posts: 9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2025
Location: California
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears
when I lived in oregon there was a shop in creswell oregon called something like toyota only swaps
their specialty was doing what you are looking to do, and they sold parts etc related
they did more than that stuff and they did some mods on one of my 3rrd gens for me, thats how I knew about them but that was maybe 8 years ago so dont know if still around
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It seems like they may have the stuff im looking for but they dont have any stock so they must be out of business.
Thanks for the info
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01-20-2025, 11:09 AM
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#3183
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,127
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,127
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Engaged the rear locker the other day to back out of my spot at home. We had about 7 or 8 inches of icy sleet/snow mix. Hit the button, it locked normally, I backed out of the spot. Got to the street and turned the locker off and. nothing happened. The lock light stayed on and steady. I tried turning it off and on, no change at all. I had to go to work, it's not far, so I just drove it with the rear locked. Pushing straight in corners, chirping tires on tighter turns, ah well.
After a couple of days the weather turned a bit less miserable so I was able to do some diagnostication on it.
No fuses blown, there are potentially 2 involved, one for the gauges that will prevent the light from lighting, clearly not an issue as the 'lock' light stays on (and the ABS off). And the '4WD' fuse, also in fine shape.
I briefly crawled under the rear to double check that the wires were still plugged into the actuator, all good under there.
Then I pulled the driver kick panel and did some basic multimeter tests at the locker ecu plug, all seemed good (although, derp, I was a wee bit confused when the transfer case wire wasn't doing what it was supposed to do, but then I recalled I did the gray wire mod on it 15 years ago, d'oh). Nothing seemed wrong here, other than what I couldn't easily test.
So I pulled the carpet up in the LR area, consulted a wiring diagram, and used a spare 12V battery to apply current directly to the M1/M2 pins. The motor locks or unlocks based on which way around the 12V+/GND is applied to them. Applied it one way, nothing. Applied it the other way, could clearly hear the actuator moving. So I got a jack, lifted one rear tire, and applying the current back and forth the axle would lock and unlock normally. Interesting. Left it 'manually' unlocked, and plugged the rear axle harness back in, and tried the dash locker button. And it locked normally (well mostly, it seemed a bit weaker?). Tried to unlock it, absolutely nothing. Looking carefully, I could see the dash lights dim every so slightly when I'd engage the locker via the button, for about 4 or 5 seconds (the amount of time the locker ECU will attempt to run the motor), then they'd return to normal. Nothing at all happened when I tried to unlock it.
So I unplugged it and manually unlocked it again with the spare battery. Plugged it back in and this time, trying to lock it via the dash button it made a little noise, but didn't fully lock The ECU not sending it enough current to actuate? Unplugged and locked/unlocked it several times via the spare battery, it worked normally.
Seems like enough suspicion on the locker ECU at this point, so I got on the internets and found one for $26 shipped, ordered it. That's an easy swap to see if anything changes.
__________________
'99 Highlander 5-spd manual e-locker no-running-board
SS 3" suspension lift/1" body lift/33" tires/'Snowflake' TRD Taco wheels/231mm Tundra brakes/bumpers/armor/sliders/winch/Sherpa Matterhorn rack
Manual front hubs, NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler, second gas tank
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01-20-2025, 01:45 PM
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#3184
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,359
Real Name: 3 Bears
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,359
Real Name: 3 Bears
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc
Engaged the rear locker the other day to back out of my spot at home. We had about 7 or 8 inches of icy sleet/snow mix. Hit the button, it locked normally, I backed out of the spot. Got to the street and turned the locker off and. nothing happened. The lock light stayed on and steady. I tried turning it off and on, no change at all. I had to go to work, it's not far, so I just drove it with the rear locked. Pushing straight in corners, chirping tires on tighter turns, ah well.
After a couple of days the weather turned a bit less miserable so I was able to do some diagnostication on it.
No fuses blown, there are potentially 2 involved, one for the gauges that will prevent the light from lighting, clearly not an issue as the 'lock' light stays on (and the ABS off). And the '4WD' fuse, also in fine shape.
I briefly crawled under the rear to double check that the wires were still plugged into the actuator, all good under there.
Then I pulled the driver kick panel and did some basic multimeter tests at the locker ecu plug, all seemed good (although, derp, I was a wee bit confused when the transfer case wire wasn't doing what it was supposed to do, but then I recalled I did the gray wire mod on it 15 years ago, d'oh). Nothing seemed wrong here, other than what I couldn't easily test.
So I pulled the carpet up in the LR area, consulted a wiring diagram, and used a spare 12V battery to apply current directly to the M1/M2 pins. The motor locks or unlocks based on which way around the 12V+/GND is applied to them. Applied it one way, nothing. Applied it the other way, could clearly hear the actuator moving. So I got a jack, lifted one rear tire, and applying the current back and forth the axle would lock and unlock normally. Interesting. Left it 'manually' unlocked, and plugged the rear axle harness back in, and tried the dash locker button. And it locked normally (well mostly, it seemed a bit weaker?). Tried to unlock it, absolutely nothing. Looking carefully, I could see the dash lights dim every so slightly when I'd engage the locker via the button, for about 4 or 5 seconds (the amount of time the locker ECU will attempt to run the motor), then they'd return to normal. Nothing at all happened when I tried to unlock it.
So I unplugged it and manually unlocked it again with the spare battery. Plugged it back in and this time, trying to lock it via the dash button it made a little noise, but didn't fully lock The ECU not sending it enough current to actuate? Unplugged and locked/unlocked it several times via the spare battery, it worked normally.
Seems like enough suspicion on the locker ECU at this point, so I got on the internets and found one for $26 shipped, ordered it. That's an easy swap to see if anything changes.
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hope you get it sorted out, 26 is cheap for one. I engage mine at least one time a month to keep it all working and not gum up
__________________
2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
2002 tundra ac v8 4wd
1969 kharmann ghia
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01-21-2025, 09:50 AM
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#3185
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,127
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,127
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Lol, I meant to post that in the 'what did you do to your 4Runner today' thread.
__________________
'99 Highlander 5-spd manual e-locker no-running-board
SS 3" suspension lift/1" body lift/33" tires/'Snowflake' TRD Taco wheels/231mm Tundra brakes/bumpers/armor/sliders/winch/Sherpa Matterhorn rack
Manual front hubs, NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler, second gas tank
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01-28-2025, 02:03 PM
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#3186
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Galveston
Posts: 2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Galveston
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky 97Runner
I'm wondering the same thing and now that I think about it, most of that post seems completely absurd. Pretty sure I was duped by AI ridiculousness.
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I’m sorry nope you weren’t duped at all. I’m a truck driver and haven’t been home to work on it until now. We ended up replacing the UCAs with new joints already in pressed. I learned a lot of lessons on this project and how to correctly measure ball joints.
When we bought her the entire front suspension was froze. Torches and lube weren’t loosening anything so we cut it most of it down and now own half of Harbor Frieght now too! When we replaced the UCAs the first time with the ball joints pressed in and then we got the steering knuckles in with ball joints and with my infinite wisdom cut the studs off the UCA side and then realized my mistake. And I couldn’t find the replacement for them and the ones (Moog) from the steering knuckles were too small. I mean frustrated and defeated said “screw it” and replaced the UCAs again. This time I didn’t fafo and am happy.
I do want to thank y’all for responding to my post though!! You guys are awesome.
Last edited by Isle Disaster; 01-28-2025 at 02:05 PM.
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01-29-2025, 11:59 PM
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#3187
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Fair Oaks, CA (Sacramento)
Posts: 323
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Fair Oaks, CA (Sacramento)
Posts: 323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isle Disaster
I’m sorry nope you weren’t duped at all. I’m a truck driver and haven’t been home to work on it until now. We ended up replacing the UCAs with new joints already in pressed. I learned a lot of lessons on this project and how to correctly measure ball joints.
When we bought her the entire front suspension was froze. Torches and lube weren’t loosening anything so we cut it most of it down and now own half of Harbor Frieght now too! When we replaced the UCAs the first time with the ball joints pressed in and then we got the steering knuckles in with ball joints and with my infinite wisdom cut the studs off the UCA side and then realized my mistake. And I couldn’t find the replacement for them and the ones (Moog) from the steering knuckles were too small. I mean frustrated and defeated said “screw it” and replaced the UCAs again. This time I didn’t fafo and am happy.
I do want to thank y’all for responding to my post though!! You guys are awesome.
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Glad to hear you got it all sorted out.
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1997 Toyota 4Runner
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02-01-2025, 09:16 PM
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#3188
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2025
Location: Canada
Posts: 2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2025
Location: Canada
Posts: 2
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Electrical problems
Hey y’all, I got a ‘96 4Runner and it has been giving me some issues as of lately, just wondering if some of you have gone through this issue as well or may know where to start with my problem. Today driving to work in a snow storm I missed my corner and I hit the brakes the abs system kicked on and killed all my lights and power to the engine vehicle literally just died. I put it in park and it fired back up. I went to start it after work and it was dead, all I got was a click when turning it over I boosted it and it ran fine. It drove normally on the way home but it did it again when I hit the brakes near my house or if I turn on the 4 way flashers you can tell noticeably that the headlights dim. I have changed the alternator last week as the battery light was on and that seemed to solve my problem till now, I have also replaced the battery. I’m not sure what the issue is hopefully you guys got some ideas. Thank you!
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02-06-2025, 08:08 PM
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#3189
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bentonville, AR
Posts: 45
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bentonville, AR
Posts: 45
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Door seal help?
I am looking to replace the upper door trim/weatherstripping/seal (no idea the correct name) that goes from the front to rear door at the top. I need to replace the passenger side but I am not having any luck on here or the interwebs. Any ideas other than the junk yard?
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02-06-2025, 09:20 PM
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#3190
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official vendor
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
Posts: 754
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official vendor
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
Posts: 754
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Do you mean these?
If so, it's PN 62381-35011, and is unfortunately discontinued.
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02-07-2025, 07:26 PM
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#3191
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bentonville, AR
Posts: 45
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bentonville, AR
Posts: 45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering
Do you mean these?
If so, it's PN 62381-35011, and is unfortunately discontinued.
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Yes, that is it! Sucks it is discontinued, mine is a pancake lol
Anyone have any leads to these available somewhere?
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02-07-2025, 08:14 PM
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#3192
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 147
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beer Hounds
Yes, that is it! Sucks it is discontinued, mine is a pancake lol
Anyone have any leads to these available somewhere?
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pick n pull/any junkyard is where I've had luck getting those in the past
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'99 Limited, 260k
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Today, 06:59 AM
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#3193
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: St. Charles MO
Posts: 7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: St. Charles MO
Posts: 7
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Intake water hose part number
Has anyone replaced those tiny hoses that are behind the fuel rails? on the 3.4. I've searched high and low and cant find a part number
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Today, 10:09 AM
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#3194
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St. Louis area
Age: 57
Posts: 1,894
Real Name: Throws like a girl
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St. Louis area
Age: 57
Posts: 1,894
Real Name: Throws like a girl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyDa_3rd
Has anyone replaced those tiny hoses that are behind the fuel rails? on the 3.4. I've searched high and low and cant find a part number
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Yes. Pic w/part numbers post#3721 habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 187 - YotaTech Forums
Howdy from across the river.
__________________
'96 4Runner SR5, assorted baubles and doodads. Stuff happened to it. Stuff is still happening to it. Okay, now the stuff is just getting ridiculous.
'99 4Runner SR5 Highlander, manual w/locker. Stuff is starting to happen to this one too...too much stuff! Too much stuff!!
http://www.yotatech.com/f200/habaner...thread-201751/
Quote:
Originally Posted by PWD4R
I know this is a weird ass question but do you shave your legs or something?
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Last edited by habanero; Today at 10:16 AM.
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