[RogueWaive]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

CA vs. Fed emissions have completely different front sensors (narrow band vs. AFR sensor) for '99/'00 years. All 01/02 use the same sensors (50-state emissions) and all '96-'98 use the same sensors.

Use the CA emissions compliant front AFR sensor if you have 2 cats.

-Charlie

OK, so my concern was legit. Thanks!

But I'm a bit confused. I was only planning to replace the O2 sensors. Is the front sensor (at the bend just ahead of the pre-cat) actually an AFR? Or...?

[mpeezy]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Most of the time the squeak is the entire stroke, but occasionally it's the bottom or top half. I removed the spring to make sure that wasn't causing issues. My next step is to remove the master cylinder and see if the squeak is still present.

let me know what you find! am gonna take a look this weekend it drives me crazy

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by RogueWaive

OK, so my concern was legit. Thanks!

But I'm a bit confused. I was only planning to replace the O2 sensors. Is the front sensor (at the bend just ahead of the pre-cat) actually an AFR? Or...?

Yes, it is an AFR sensor. Looks externally like a normal O2 sensor, but it is more advanced. Not quite a modern full wideband sensor, but it works pretty well. Replacing both the front AFR and rear O2 sensors should be part of chasing down P0420 problems... Even if it just to save the new cats you might have to install.

There will be a number of OEM part numbers - they are different RWD vs. 4WD and CA vs. Fed emissions (and then there are 4-cylinder options in there...). RWD vs. 4WD are clip locations (nothing serious), but the CA vs. Fed front sensor is critical.

-Charlie

[RogueWaive]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

Yes, it is an AFR sensor. Looks externally like a normal O2 sensor, but it is more advanced. Not quite a modern full wideband sensor, but it works pretty well. Replacing both the front AFR and rear O2 sensors should be part of chasing down P0420 problems... Even if it just to save the new cats you might have to install.

There will be a number of OEM part numbers - they are different RWD vs. 4WD and CA vs. Fed emissions (and then there are 4-cylinder options in there...). RWD vs. 4WD are clip locations (nothing serious), but the CA vs. Fed front sensor is critical.

-Charlie

So you're basically saying the stealer gave me the wrong part numbers for both... by going off the VIN. Unless the tech would've caught it, it sounds like, if I had them do the job, they would've installed the wrong parts, eh?

[mpeezy]

so I'm having an issue with my power locks. whenever it rains or the car gets wet, the locks seem to actuate-themselves. when im driving or when its sitting, the car will lock and unlock itself, setting off the horn alarm.

everything I found is related to door actuators themselves, etc. however this only happens when the car gets wet. any thoughts?

[RogueWaive]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

Yes, it is an AFR sensor. Looks externally like a normal O2 sensor, but it is more advanced. Not quite a modern full wideband sensor, but it works pretty well. Replacing both the front AFR and rear O2 sensors should be part of chasing down P0420 problems... Even if it just to save the new cats you might have to install.

There will be a number of OEM part numbers - they are different RWD vs. 4WD and CA vs. Fed emissions (and then there are 4-cylinder options in there...). RWD vs. 4WD are clip locations (nothing serious), but the CA vs. Fed front sensor is critical.

-Charlie

OK, called and spoke with my service agent at the stealer. He's been our guy since the '80s. He sent me to his preferred parts guy. I told him the situation. Also mentioned that you said it should be an AFR. He said that sounded right to him, as well. As on the Denso site, he found 4 upstream (front) possibilities. But based on the Cali designation, he narrowed it down to the 234-9002. Sure enough. This is an AFR.

The downstream he gave me is the 234-4153, which also makes sense. That's the Cali version of the one the other guy gave me yesterday. I'm guessing the only difference here is the length of the pigtail.

Looks like we solved it. So glad I didn't simply accept those part numbers.

Thanks again!

[aatheiss]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

Yes, it is an AFR sensor. Looks externally like a normal O2 sensor, but it is more advanced. Not quite a modern full wideband sensor, but it works pretty well. Replacing both the front AFR and rear O2 sensors should be part of chasing down P0420 problems... Even if it just to save the new cats you might have to install.

There will be a number of OEM part numbers - they are different RWD vs. 4WD and CA vs. Fed emissions (and then there are 4-cylinder options in there...). RWD vs. 4WD are clip locations (nothing serious), but the CA vs. Fed front sensor is critical.

-Charlie

@phattyduck sounds like you have done some research on these so I'm hoping I can get your thoughts on my specific case.

I have a 4-cyl Hilux Surf, the upstream sensor is an O2 (89465-39835), I figure I can replace that with little difficulty. However, it has an EGT sensor (89425-80033) on the downstream, plugged into the back of the cat itself instead of an O2 sensor a little farther down in the pipe. The EGT sensor is discontinued and not available anywhere I can find. My guess is they are not interchangeable, but I'm hoping I can find an alternative when I inevitably need to replace it or my cat. Am I correct in assuming there would be a different signal or voltage being sent to the control module if I tried an O2 sensor?

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by mpeezy

so I'm having an issue with my power locks. whenever it rains or the car gets wet, the locks seem to actuate-themselves. when im driving or when its sitting, the car will lock and unlock itself, setting off the horn alarm.

everything I found is related to door actuators themselves, etc. however this only happens when the car gets wet. any thoughts?

Assuming you have a 99-02? If so, the rear hatch has the wireless receiver in it and may be having moisture issues.

The other possibility is the front - how is the large grommet where the wiring from the engine bay fuse box enters the body? (above the driver's dead pedal) Water flows over that when the truck gets wet and it MUST be sealed well.

-Charlie

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by aatheiss

@phattyduck sounds like you have done some research on these so I'm hoping I can get your thoughts on my specific case.

I have a 4-cyl Hilux Surf, the upstream sensor is an O2 (89465-39835), I figure I can replace that with little difficulty. However, it has an EGT sensor (89425-80033) on the downstream, plugged into the back of the cat itself instead of an O2 sensor a little farther down in the pipe. The EGT sensor is discontinued and not available anywhere I can find. My guess is they are not interchangeable, but I'm hoping I can find an alternative when I inevitably need to replace it or my cat. Am I correct in assuming there would be a different signal or voltage being sent to the control module if I tried an O2 sensor?

The EGT sensor is likely only connected to an idiot light on your dash... that's how Toyota did a lot of the non-North-American vehicles. Basically just closes a switch to ground when the EGTs are too high. To verify, you'll need to get a wiring diagram for your vehicle (the US/Canada diagram won't have it).

That's how my 3s-gte was done. I just deleted that feature (along with the cat in that location, but that's a different story!).

-Charlie

[mpeezy]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

Assuming you have a 99-02? If so, the rear hatch has the wireless receiver in it and may be having moisture issues.

The other possibility is the front - how is the large grommet where the wiring from the engine bay fuse box enters the body? (above the driver's dead pedal) Water flows over that when the truck gets wet and it MUST be sealed well.

-Charlie

thanks for this - will see if i can trigger it with the hose, didn''t know about the receiver in the hatch. cheers

[Mimck]

New here, but having issues with my 4x4 light on my 2002 4Runner SR5. The car shifts into 4wd seemingly fine and the light will turn on green with all 4 wheels. However, sometimes the light flashes in the car when I’m in 2wd. Not only does it blink, but it also will be glitchy and sporadically blink as well. It usually doesn’t happen until I’m going highway speeds and take my foot off the accelerator/brake. It usually will stop after a while, but when I hit a bump or go over a bridge it will flash for a second. It almost seems like a loose connection somewhere, but I can’t figure out why it is so random.

Let me know what anyone thinks- not sure where to go from here.

[thisMF]

Afternoon, I bought it a week ago knowing it was gonna need some $ in it. Ran great for 500miles. Now it idles around 500rpm runs rough like a misfire and sounds like it backfires (may not be backfiring) if I accelerate lightly. Thermal sensor shows a cold #4 cylinder. I got plugs, wires, coils, fuel filter, I intend to pick up a MAF, a IACV and a pcv valve. Does it sound like I'm on the right track. I've looked up and down threads and this is the direction I gather I should head in. Also will be looking at injectors. Any thoughts tips and tricks?

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by thisMF

Afternoon, I bought it a week ago knowing it was gonna need some $ in it. Ran great for 500miles. Now it idles around 500rpm runs rough like a misfire and sounds like it backfires (may not be backfiring) if I accelerate lightly. Thermal sensor shows a cold #4 cylinder. I got plugs, wires, coils, fuel filter, I intend to pick up a MAF, a IACV and a pcv valve. Does it sound like I'm on the right track. I've looked up and down threads and this is the direction I gather I should head in. Also will be looking at injectors. Any thoughts tips and tricks?

Make sure the parts you are putting on are quality stuff. Plugs/wires/coils - NGK or Denso. MAF and IAC should be cleaned before trying to replace (early MAF is EXPENSIVE!). Easy enough to check the PCV before replacing. Get a new grommet and hose if you are doing that.

A "hollow" or "backfire" type feeling is likely a misfire, any check-engine light?

-Charlie

[thisMF]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

Make sure the parts you are putting on are quality stuff. Plugs/wires/coils - NGK or Denso. MAF and IAC should be cleaned before trying to replace (early MAF is EXPENSIVE!). Easy enough to check the PCV before replacing. Get a new grommet and hose if you are doing that.

A "hollow" or "backfire" type feeling is likely a misfire, any check-engine light?

-Charlie

It was on since I had purchased it. Code is for wheel speed sensor. Previous owner stated it has been replaced. And had always been on since they had it.

The parts I already purchased were intermotor from Bumper to Bumper.

No code as to rough running. Will scan again when I get home. Gonna stop and get my own obd2 any recommendations as to which ones work best?

[mpeezy]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Most of the time the squeak is the entire stroke, but occasionally it's the bottom or top half. I removed the spring to make sure that wasn't causing issues. My next step is to remove the master cylinder and see if the squeak is still present.

circling back -- replacing my master cylinder fixed the issue