[Dmorgano]

I'm looking at a 99 4runner Limited. I've asked for pictures Backside of frame/crossover bar, Rear differential, Rear mains/input shaft seal/rack seal. Not sure exactly what i should be looking for in terms of rust/wear....any expert opinions on what's problematic in these pics? Definitely no ROT.

[cl4Rk]

Originally Posted by Dmorgano

I'm looking at a 99 4runner Limited. I've asked for pictures Backside of frame/crossover bar, Rear differential, Rear mains/input shaft seal/rack seal. Not sure exactly what i should be looking for in terms of rust/wear....any expert opinions on what's problematic in these pics? Definitely no ROT.

Welcome @Dmorgano

I would ask for good photos of both inboard rear lower trailing arm mount weld seams. Go to my build thread (link in my signature) and look for the photo of mine for reference. Even my photo would have been better positioned higher up to show that the rust actually ate all the way through the weld.

If you have penetrating rust, some options include:
1) walk away
2) get the price down several grand then
2a) repair the frame if you believe there’s only one problem spot (unlikely, these frames often rust from the inside out) or
2b) swap the frame (tons of work)

Ideally you would visit in-person and hit the frame with a hammer in all the problem spots, to test if the rust is surface or penetrating.

Based on those photos alone, I personally would not be scared off. BUT, you really do need to know if it’s just surface rust or not.

In what region/climate has this truck lived its life?

[Fhcaputo]

Post count too low to start a new thread. Not sure this will be seen here but here goes.

I installed an afe stage 2 cold air intake because the factory box was crushed in a recent wreck. Since the install, the truck idles at 1500 rpm in park which it never did with the factory air box. I know the idle is computer controlled and I’ve checked to be sure all vacuum lines are secure. Wondered if anyone had this experience and what was the fix?

Thanks,
Frank

[cl4Rk]

Originally Posted by Fhcaputo

Post count too low to start a new thread. Not sure this will be seen here but here goes.

I installed an afe stage 2 cold air intake because the factory box was crushed in a recent wreck. Since the install, the truck idles at 1500 rpm in park which it never did with the factory air box. I know the idle is computer controlled and I’ve checked to be sure all vacuum lines are secure. Wondered if anyone had this experience and what was the fix?

Thanks,
Frank

Welcome @Fhcaputo

Off the top of my head: Was your MAF sensor damaged in the wreck? If not, have you already cleaned your throttle body, IAC valve, TPS; and have you cleaned or replaced your MAF sensor?

Are you getting any codes on your OBDII reader?

Also, how many drive cycles have you completed since the wreck? Seems like making changes to the intake will sometimes require a little time before the idle calms down.

Anyway, that's a start. Maybe others will chime in with their experience.

Best of luck

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Well that changes things. Does the shifter have a lot of slack in it?

I would definitely say so. Between the body lift I have and the fact that the bushings are completely gone inside the shifter

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

I would definitely say so. Between the body lift I have and the fact that the bushings are completely gone inside the shifter

I wonder if it's something in the shifter assembly moving around and clicking/clunking? Might be worth doing the bushings. They're fairly cheap and I think Timmy has a youtube video on how to do it.

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

I wonder if it's something in the shifter assembly moving around and clicking/clunking? Might be worth doing the bushings. They're fairly cheap and I think Timmy has a youtube video on how to do it.

Well, I supposed I should add that upon trying to replace the bushings and referencing Timmy’s video (great video), I was unsuccessful in getting them to press in. I ended up breaking two of the new bushings, so I literally installed it back without them. Frustrating as hell I’ve gotta admit. I may give it another go here soon, maybe trying getting some assistance from a friend might be good

[D'arce]

Hello!
Looking to make room for an engine swap...would there be a problem installing a front diff drop with no lift?

[photoleif]

Originally Posted by D'arce

Hello!
Looking to make room for an engine swap...would there be a problem installing a front diff drop with no lift?

what is coming out, and what's going in? is your 3rz getting the boot, and you want a 5vz? there were some threads on YT a while back and it seems there's a *lot* to do if this is your intended direction. someone even said new transmission. is your transmission the R150F? there are also some threads here where people are exploring a 3rz-->5vz swap. did any of those net you some hints about what they did?

[Fhcaputo]

Originally Posted by cl4Rk

Welcome @Fhcaputo

Off the top of my head: Was your MAF sensor damaged in the wreck? If not, have you already cleaned your throttle body, IAC valve, TPS; and have you cleaned or replaced your MAF sensor?

Are you getting any codes on your OBDII reader?

Also, how many drive cycles have you completed since the wreck? Seems like making changes to the intake will sometimes require a little time before the idle calms down.

Anyway, that's a start. Maybe others will chime in with their experience.

Best of luck

Thanks for that cl4Rk! All good tips and I'll get busy on all of those. With 367,000 miles, I'm sure a good cleaning is in order for those items mentioned. The truck did sit around for a month and a half while I rebuilt the front end so I'm sure that didn't help either. Come to think of it, I've only driven it for maybe 50 miles, so your point about the drive cycles may be the main issue.

Thanks again!
Frank

[D'arce]

Originally Posted by photoleif

what is coming out, and what's going in? is your 3rz getting the boot, and you want a 5vz? there were some threads on YT a while back and it seems there's a *lot* to do if this is your intended direction. someone even said new transmission. is your transmission the R150F? there are also some threads here where people are exploring a 3rz-->5vz swap. did any of those net you some hints about what they did?

3rz coming out, either TDI BEW or OM617 going in...I have both engines on hand, just not sure which direction to go.

I don't believe the R150 was available behind the 3rz. It should be the W59.

[strongbreath]

Can't start a new thread yet.

I'm looking at a 98 that from what I can tell so far was hit in front. For some reason the radiator cracked but the AC cooler is fine, so it must have hit lower.

The owner just replaced the radiator. He swears no antifreeze got into the trans, but that after several flushes the radiator fluid in the new one is still "oily"

I'm thinking of looking at it Saturday but--the only way for oil to get into a radiator is like blown head gasket sort of thing, no?

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by strongbreath

Can't start a new thread yet.

I'm looking at a 98 that from what I can tell so far was hit in front. For some reason the radiator cracked but the AC cooler is fine, so it must have hit lower.

The owner just replaced the radiator. He swears no antifreeze got into the trans, but that after several flushes the radiator fluid in the new one is still "oily"

I'm thinking of looking at it Saturday but--the only way for oil to get into a radiator is like blown head gasket sort of thing, no?

Define "oily". Coolant has a slick feeling similar to oil. If it's engine oil getting into the coolant it could also be a cracked head or a failing engine oil cooler. If you do have engine oil in the coolant it's very likely that coolant got into the engine oil so check the dipstick and the bottom of the oil fill cap to see if there is any moisture buildup or a glue like substance on it. Also check the transmission fluid to make sure it wasn't a strawberry milkshake victim and the current owner isn't trying to pull a fast one.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by D'arce

3rz coming out, either TDI BEW or OM617 going in...I have both engines on hand, just not sure which direction to go.

I don't believe the R150 was available behind the 3rz. It should be the W59.

You are correct. 3RZ had the W59 transmission behind it. Good luck with your swap! It would be a fun read if you document it!

[max777]

Sorry if this is redundant, I’ve seen other posts around blown HG’s but I’m not very mechanically inclined, I have a lot of specific questions, so I feel pretty at the end of my rope here and would appreciate any insight I could get.

After my car was stolen a month ago, the bad luck just keeps a comin’ and I bought a 98 Toyota 4Runner SR5 3.4 with 340K that ended up being an absolute hot mess. It was overheating and then I realized the radiator had a crack in it, so I replaced that and the cap. Was still overheating at idle so I replaced the thermostat and fan clutch. But then I noticed I was losing coolant with no visible leak. Uh oh, worried it’s the HG. And then the white smoke from the exhaust. Sigh. So this is where I’m at now. I’m a delivery driver and spent all the money I had saved on this being my new daily. So with the suspected blown HG this is my worst nightmare. As crazy as this sounds, part of me wants to do it myself just because I’ll never be able to afford getting the HG fixed at a shop anytime soon.
Thankfully there is no oil mixed with coolant from what I can tell, so I think the HG just blew towards the exhaust manifold and not the crankcase and there are no external leaks/puddles. So I feel like maybe I can do this.
So my question is, is this a crazy idea? I have pretty limited tools but would rather spend money on that then try to save for a mechanic to fix this. From the research I’ve done, I should do a leak down test. Recommended kits? It’s been a toss up between ones on Amazon and some elsewhere etc.
What other tools will I need for this job?
Do you have a complete HG kit you recommend that I can get online? I’m confused about everything I will need and I’ve seen so many different kits.
Can I potentially just buy all the parts (want to replace water pump, timing belt, etc also) and take it to someone independently or a shop and be charged for labor? Again, sorry if these questions are redundant.

Happily taking any advice. I also live in Oakland/SF Bay Area so if anyone knows anyone in the area that is available for advice, I would appreciate it thank you!!!