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Old 05-29-2020, 08:50 AM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da_crew10 View Post
Actually pieces it together cheaper from the same place I ordered my lbj.

Can someone chime in and see if I ordered correctly

Part# 1121360202 x2 valve cover gaskets

Part# 1119370100 spark plug seal x 6


P.s just cleaned up under the tranny area. I dont think it's my rear main seal. Leak comes from way up above most likely the valve cover gaskets and half noon things . Yall are some o.gs knowing all this lol.

I'm doing most of everything myself. But a rear main seal job would be something I wouldn't do due to time and tools.
You'll also need FIPG, camshaft plugs, and either clean the half moons or replace them. I chose to replace them. It's also a good idea to order all the valve cover bolt grommets as well.
I ordered:
11213-62020 (x2) Valve Cover Gasket
11193-70010 (x6) Valve Cover Gasket (spark plug tube gasket)
17176-62040 (x2) Plenum Gasket
90210-05007 (x16) Washer Seal
11188-62010 (x2) Plug
11183-62010 (x4) Plug Semicircular
00295-00103 Trans Pan Sealer/Valve Cover FIPG
12204-62010 PCV Valve
90480-18001 Grommet
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Last edited by Bad Luck; 06-01-2020 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 05-29-2020, 02:19 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
You'll also need FIPG, camshaft plugs, and either clean the half moons or replace them. I chose to replace them. It's also a good idea to order all the valve cover grommets as well.
I ordered:
11213-62020 (x2) Valve Cover Gasket
11193-70010 (x6) Valve Cover Gasket (spark plug tube gasket)
17176-62040 (x2) Plenum Gasket
90210-05007 (x16) Washer Seal
11188-62010 (x2) Plug
11183-62010 (x4) Plug Semicircular
00295-00103 Trans Pan Sealer/Valve Cover FIPG
12204-62010 PCV Valve
90480-18001 Grommet
I don't mean to derail this too much, but since I'm preparing to deal with leaking VCGs myself, is it typical to replace spark plugs and spark plug wires (19037-62050) when doing this work? And the throttle body gasket (22271-62040)?
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Old 05-29-2020, 02:39 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beklemmung View Post
I don't mean to derail this too much, but since I'm preparing to deal with leaking VCGs myself, is it typical to replace spark plugs and spark plug wires (19037-62050) when doing this work? And the throttle body gasket (22271-62040)?
I did spark plugs and wires when I replaced my valve cover gaskets. I didn't replace the throttle body gasket because I just replaced it but would be a good idea to replace if your's is older.
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Old 05-30-2020, 10:47 AM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
You'll also need FIPG, camshaft plugs, and either clean the half moons or replace them. I chose to replace them. It's also a good idea to order all the valve cover grommets as well.
I ordered:
11213-62020 (x2) Valve Cover Gasket
11193-70010 (x6) Valve Cover Gasket (spark plug tube gasket)
17176-62040 (x2) Plenum Gasket
90210-05007 (x16) Washer Seal
11188-62010 (x2) Plug
11183-62010 (x4) Plug Semicircular
00295-00103 Trans Pan Sealer/Valve Cover FIPG
12204-62010 PCV Valve
90480-18001 Grommet

Screenshot-20200530-094348-Samsung-Internet


Actually bought all that same day I was asking all my newb questions about the gaskets. And luckily I have an almost full deal of FIPG left over from the tacoma.
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Old 05-31-2020, 02:03 AM #35
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Gonna get ready to tackle on all this valve cover work and suspension work.

Suspension wise. What is the easiest way to go about this? Since I have to replace the lbj is there a way to not make it complicated? Replace the lbj first or last? Or bilsteins first then lbj?
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:32 AM #36
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If you do the floor jack spring compression method then undo the ball joint at the beginning and install the new one after you have the struts assembled.


I’ve got a question:

The front billsteins don’t come with the lower stem bushing. It’s supposedly supposed to be fixed to the top hat. My original bushings are no longer fixed to the top hat, and are shot.
I know some folks buy new top hats, but what does everyone else do?

I purchased Nolathane Bushings to use. Will see how that works.
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:47 AM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
If you do the floor jack spring compression method then undo the ball joint at the beginning and install the new one after you have the struts assembled.


I’ve got a question:

The front billsteins don’t come with the lower stem bushing. It’s supposedly supposed to be fixed to the top hat. My original bushings are no longer fixed to the top hat, and are shot.
I know some folks buy new top hats, but what does everyone else do?

I purchased Nolathane Bushings to use. Will see how that works.
Good question, I was just planning on using wtv is on my shocks now and transfering that over. Or is there an alternative I have yet to research on?
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Old 05-31-2020, 12:02 PM #38
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I’m thinking the best route is to purchase new top hats.
Researching that, I find folks complain of Monroe isolators turning to mush.
I bought the Tundra isolators from Wheelers. (Brand ?)
Rock Auto has Moog top hats????

I bought these. They look the part, but I’m not sure on fit. The lip that is supposed to keep the shock shaft from contacting the top hat bore will be a tight fit, if it fits. I’ll know today.

Amazon.com: Nolathane REV126.0006 Black Shock Absorber Bushing (Upper Front): Automotive
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Old 05-31-2020, 03:54 PM #39
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So.........none of the Tundra bushings fit. I don’t know what folks are doing. If you buy new top hats but then try and use the bushing supplied with the Tundra billsteins it won’t fit into the top hat to keep the shock shaft centered.

Best guess I can make is that the center hole in the Tundra top hat is larger.

I drilled my top hats out to 22/32 so that now the Nolathane and billstein bushings fit properly and keep the shaft centered.
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Old 06-01-2020, 07:52 PM #40
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Just got these in today:
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner - Bilstein 5100 Series Leveling Strut / Shock (Adjustable 0" to 2.5" FRONT Lift) - F4-BE5-D558-T0 | SuspensionConnection.com


They came set at that top perch. I am assuming that's set at 2.5 inches? Can anyone verify?



20200601-184534
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Old 06-01-2020, 08:02 PM #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
So.........none of the Tundra bushings fit. I don’t know what folks are doing. If you buy new top hats but then try and use the bushing supplied with the Tundra billsteins it won’t fit into the top hat to keep the shock shaft centered.

Best guess I can make is that the center hole in the Tundra top hat is larger.

I drilled my top hats out to 22/32 so that now the Nolathane and billstein bushings fit properly and keep the shaft centered.
Btw I think this is what you and I need:

Front Strut Stem Cushion and Washer Kit
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:30 PM #42
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I saw those while I was searching for solutions. Had I known I’d of ordered them when I ordered the other lift parts.

If I have to address front shocks again I’ll just order new top hats.
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:27 PM #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da_crew10 View Post
Screenshot-20200530-094348-Samsung-Internet


Actually bought all that same day I was asking all my newb questions about the gaskets. And luckily I have an almost full deal of FIPG left over from the tacoma.
the only thing you might want to add is the rubber ring that fits into the oil fill cap.Those can leak too when they get old with a little blow by pressure....not meaning rings ...meaning just normal pressure in the engine. Some are so brittle that they look like hard plastic and part of the cap.
sorry dont have the part # handy
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Old 06-04-2020, 01:15 AM #44
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Got the fronts done super easy. Used a spring conpressor and both transfered easy. Used the botle jack method on top of the UCA.

Moved on to the ball joints. Arrived as I was wrapping up the front strut replacement. Only to find that Toyota sent me two LH lbj. That was a bummer, but again easy to do.

Proceeded to do the rears. Rear springs were a breeze to remove. Only to come to a halt. Both rear top nuts were either seized to hell or I am too weak.

Question. I am considering cutting them off. If so where do y'all recommend I do so?
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Old 06-04-2020, 01:37 AM #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da_crew10 View Post
Got the fronts done super easy. Used a spring conpressor and both transfered easy. Used the botle jack method on top of the UCA.

Moved on to the ball joints. Arrived as I was wrapping up the front strut replacement. Only to find that Toyota sent me two LH lbj. That was a bummer, but again easy to do.

Proceeded to do the rears. Rear springs were a breeze to remove. Only to come to a halt. Both rear top nuts were either seized to hell or I am too weak.

Question. I am considering cutting them off. If so where do y'all recommend I do so?
Below the shock mount above the top washer on the shock, a Sawzall will make short work out of it.
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