[Alstyn]

Originally Posted by Brian.

My gut instinct is that you have a clogged heater core and need a coolant flush (probably a power flush). Next thought is that if you need that, you're probably on borrowed time with the radiator and transmission. Radiator is #1 killer of the transmissions and one of the top 2 reasons why 4runners die (lower ball joints failing being the other reason).

All sorts of videos out there on how to flush your cooling system yourself, and this is what I'm talking about for a power flush ~ Amazon.com: OTC 6043 Blast-Vac Multipurpose Cleaning Gun : Automotive

But it could be that the seller simply disconnected the heater core because it was clogged or leaking and they didn't want to bother with fixing it for a sale. So you'd need to check that too.... Good luck!

----------------------------------------
He did mention that the radiator was just replaced, is it possible it didn't get reconnected? car runs and drives fine.

[Alstyn]

Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering

Did you confirm that the heater valve opens when set to heat? No hot water => no heat.

I have not. How can I find that out?

[Alstyn]

Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering

Did you confirm that the heater valve opens when set to heat? No hot water => no heat.

you've solved it! Heater valve is stuck or non functioning. Moved the arm myself and heat came!

[Spiker Engineering]

Originally Posted by Alstyn

you've solved it! Heater valve is stuck or non functioning. Moved the arm myself and heat came!

Awesome!

[MelodyRad]

Originally Posted by spartacus

O'Reilly' s can check your charging system and tell you if the alternator is good also if the battery is being discharged which triggers the light on the dash. They can also tell you if you have a bleed off on the charging line.

I already did this and told me that both the battery and alternator are healthy. they are new. but didnt mention anything about bleeding of charge line.

[MelodyRad]

Originally Posted by spartacus

With the motor running the battery terminals should be at 14-15V. With motor off Check battery to see if it is going down--should be 12V-12.5+V with engine off. Also check alternator fusible link in engine junction box.

its at 14.7 running. new battery and alternator.

[MelodyRad]

Originally Posted by Skulking

The bulb is part of the charging circuit, and if the bulb has been swapped to an LED that can cause the light to stay on at all times.

The entire vehicle is unmodified. It is very unlikely that light was modified or replaced.

[MelodyRad]

Originally Posted by spartacus

The battery light also indicates low brake fluid in the reservoir.Check your brake fluid level.

Edit: If the brake light is also on . The brake light on also indicates alternator charging issues.

That is crazy...
But brake fluid is at healthy level. I verified ALL fluids when purchasing and monthly.

[MelodyRad]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

What is your battery voltage while engine running cold and hot? What is your battery voltage before you start the engine? What did you replace the alternator with (brand)?

alternator level running is 14.7v.
i didnt record it not running/cold/hot.

i dont think it is relevant for brand. The light was always ON prior to replacing alternator and battery. It was ON during the entire ownership of previous owner which he has zero knowledge as to why or how the light has been always ON.

current alternator part number R110936A 70amp oreilys. Installed Turkey day 2021.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by MelodyRad

alternator level running is 14.7v.
i didnt record it not running/cold/hot.

i dont think it is relevant for brand. The light was always ON prior to replacing alternator and battery. It was ON during the entire ownership of previous owner which he has zero knowledge as to why or how the light has been always ON.

current alternator part number R110936A 70amp oreilys. Installed Turkey day 2021.

Aftermarket starters and alternators are known to be junk for these vehicles. I’d recommend buying a used oem one off eBay and trying that. Should be around $60 or so. Cold start voltage and engine warm voltage would be helpful to help you.

[tpdietz]

Soooo I'm doing my valve cover gaskets, etc. I got everything off, and I'm about to deep clean the plenum and valve covers. This hose is giving me trouble on the upper plenum. It also doesn't look quite like the other hoses, so I'm hesitant to yank harder in an attempt to remove it. It appears to have a plastic fitting in the hose or something (see second image).

Question: How do I remove this? Yank harder?

[MelodyRad]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Aftermarket starters and alternators are known to be junk for these vehicles. I’d recommend buying a used oem one off eBay and trying that. Should be around $60 or so. Cold start voltage and engine warm voltage would be helpful to help you.

I have a local parts store alternator that is new that works and is producing a healthy 14.7 volts. And you are saying buy a used product that is oem to fix this concern?

That sounds like waste.

The light has always been on with the current and previous alternator.

[MelodyRad]

Originally Posted by spartacus

With the motor running the battery terminals should be at 14-15V. With motor off Check battery to see if it is going down--should be 12V-12.5+V with engine off. Also check alternator fusible link in engine junction box.

its at 14.7 running running. new battery and alternator.

its sunday now, haven't driven since friday noon.
Engine off cold 12.5 volts
Engine on cold 14.37 volts
Engine on warm 14.61 volts
Note. Warm = engine temp at operating temp.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by MelodyRad

I have a local parts store alternator that is new that works and is producing a healthy 14.7 volts. And you are saying buy a used product that is oem to fix this concern?

That sounds like waste.

The light has always been on with the current and previous alternator.

You already wasted money on an aftermarket alternator and the light is still on so ya I’m suggesting buying a used OME component that has a much higher likelihood of working than the new aftermarket one.

[MelodyRad]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

You already wasted money on an aftermarket alternator and the light is still on so ya I’m suggesting buying a used OME component that has a much higher likelihood of working than the new aftermarket one.

That’s all opinion.