[MelodyRad]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

You already wasted money on an aftermarket alternator and the light is still on so ya I’m suggesting buying a used OME component that has a much higher likelihood of working than the new aftermarket one.

Thanks for the input however.

[Paulmaz]

Just bought a 2002 2Wd with 290K Miles, with 16 in. wheels. Runs great, but suspension is bad and maybe original!

What are your thoughts on this configuration. Looking for a moderate lift from this (under 2 inches)

REAR:
Moog 81041 Coils
Bilstein 5100

FRONT:
Moog 81088 Coils
Bilstein 5100 24-248730
Monroe 904900 Strut-Mate Strut Mounting Kit
Gabriel 142467 Hardware Kit

any pros/cons would be very helpful!

Also buying a Spring Compression tool for the front:
ABN 11.5in Strut Spring Compressor Tool – Set of 2 (Pair) – Macpherson Spring Compression, 13/16in Socket 1/2in Drive

thanks,
Paul

[RandyBobandy]

14.6 warm sounds too high, voltage regulator on the alternator probably isn’t functioning properly

[tpdietz]

Originally Posted by tpdietz

Soooo I'm doing my valve cover gaskets, etc. I got everything off, and I'm about to deep clean the plenum and valve covers. This hose is giving me trouble on the upper plenum. It also doesn't look quite like the other hoses, so I'm hesitant to yank harder in an attempt to remove it. It appears to have a plastic fitting in the hose or something (see second image).

Question: How do I remove this? Yank harder?

BUMP!

Going to tackle this today and hopefully apply some new aluminum colored engine paint on the valve covers and plenums. Shameless bump in hopes someone knows the answer

[tpdietz]

Originally Posted by Paulmaz

Just bought a 2002 2Wd with 290K Miles, with 16 in. wheels. Runs great, but suspension is bad and maybe original!

What are your thoughts on this configuration. Looking for a moderate lift from this (under 2 inches)

REAR:
Moog 81041 Coils
Bilstein 5100

FRONT:
Moog 81088 Coils
Bilstein 5100 24-248730
Monroe 904900 Strut-Mate Strut Mounting Kit
Gabriel 142467 Hardware Kit

any pros/cons would be very helpful!

Also buying a Spring Compression tool for the front:
ABN 11.5in Strut Spring Compressor Tool – Set of 2 (Pair) – Macpherson Spring Compression, 13/16in Socket 1/2in Drive

thanks,
Paul

I haven't heard of too many folks on here running Moog coils so I can't speak to that, but the Bilstein 5100's seem like a tried and true solution that many people run. I've heard many people say having the coils pre-installed is very convenient if you can swing it. This is the route I went down, and I certainly didn't mind saving a few hours of work and the potential risk of hurting myself. YMMV. Keep in mind removing the top hats from the existing front coilovers could be a PITA depending on the current condition. When doing my lift install, removing the three bolts to get the front shocks out was the hardest part. I had to cut my rusted bolts out (every single one of them), which mean't I would've had to buy new parts anyways if I was going to install the coils on the front strut myself myself.

I recently installed a mild lift kit (Dobinsons 2-inch) and the biggest advice I can give you is to buy adjustable upper control arms upfront. It's nearly impossible to get the correct caster without and will drastically change how the truck drives. I also suggest inspecting your lower control arm cam bolts to ensure they aren't rusted/seized so you can adjust caster and camber. Mine are seized and need replacing. My next top priority purchase is adjustable upper control arms and replace my lower control arm bushings/cam bolts. My current caster is 0.3 and 0.6 degrees - ideally you want +3.5-4.5. My 4runner is a little bit like driving a shopping cart at the moment (squirrely) since my cam bolts are seized and I'm running OEM uca's.

Not sure your budget but here's a link to a couple lift kits based off the 5100 shocks:

Bilstein/OME Stage 1 Lift Kit - 3rd Gen 4Runner (1996-02) - YotaMafia (no uca's)
Bilstein/OME Stage 2 Lift Kit - 3rd Gen 4Runner (1996-02) - YotaMafia (w/ uca's)

Good luck and happy wrenching!

[Paulmaz]

Thanks for the notes. This car is for my son, so low budget! I agree with you on the front. I have not bought anything yet for that, as I would like to see if I can can find a pre-installed coil with absorber. Not a huge selection on rock auto.

For the rear, I pulled the trigger and ordered the Bilsteins and the Moogs. I have read a lot, while not best, not worst, and worst case they can be easily changed out. The pair was $48. I will do this, and see how she looks and responds then think about the front. I am thinking i should do the sway bar links while at it, because i am loosening them as i do it. Thoughts?

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Paulmaz

Thanks for the notes. This car is for my son, so low budget! I agree with you on the front. I have not bought anything yet for that, as I would like to see if I can can find a pre-installed coil with absorber. Not a huge selection on rock auto.

For the rear, I pulled the trigger and ordered the Bilsteins and the Moogs. I have read a lot, while not best, not worst, and worst case they can be easily changed out. The pair was $48. I will do this, and see how she looks and responds then think about the front. I am thinking i should do the sway bar links while at it, because i am loosening them as i do it. Thoughts?

If you haven't replaced the lower ball joints and lower ball joint bolts with OEM I would focus on that first. A failed lower ball joint has the potential to total the vehicle and potentially hurt/kill people.

[fatherohenry]

Originally Posted by tpdietz

BUMP!

Going to tackle this today and hopefully apply some new aluminum colored engine paint on the valve covers and plenums. Shameless bump in hopes someone knows the answer

Is that some sort of clamp on the end of that hose? If you can't pry it off, maybe cut it off and replace it. It's just a vacuum hose.

My '96 looks different.

[Paulmaz]

Thanks for this info. Looks like parts are about $250 but job is beyond my skill. Any idea on cost at dealer? I guess I could buy OEM and i know a mechanic who can do it with the parts I supply.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Paulmaz

Thanks for this info. Looks like parts are about $250 but job is beyond my skill. Any idea on cost at dealer? I guess I could buy OEM and i know a mechanic who can do it with the parts I supply.

Have you watched mtbtim's youtube video on it? It's really easy in my opinion, but I know some people excel in different areas. Here's the video if you want to look it over: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2329586-post17.html If you decide to get a mechanic to do it I would estimate 2-3 hours of shop labor as long as the vehicle isn't heavily rusted. I'd recommend putting the lower ball joint bolts in a sandwich bag with a note stating the torque value.

[Spiker Engineering]

[QUOTE=tpdietz;3706401] My next top priority purchase is adjustable upper control arms and replace my lower control arm bushings/cam bolts. My current caster is 0.3 and 0.6 degrees - ideally you want +3.5-4.5. My 4runner is a little bit like driving a shopping cart at the moment (squirrely) since my cam bolts are seized and I'm running OEM uca's./QUOTE]

As alternative to adjustable UCAs, you can buy non-adjustable (UCAs) that have a high caster already built into them (e.g. JBA).

I'm running them with the 2" Dobinson's lift, and have about 4 deg of caster.

[Paulmaz]

I decided against the Moogs after more reading. I cancelled the MOOGS order and ordered the OME 906 with the Bilstein 1500. For the front, I would like to get the OME 880 with the Bilsteins, and as you said, would like to have it put together already, but I cannot find that anywhere. Does anyone know who sells that as a pair?

[cl4Rk]

Originally Posted by Paulmaz

ordered the OME 906 with the Bilstein 1500. For the front, I would like to get the OME 880 with the Bilsteins

That’s what I’m running. Only about 600 miles in but so far very happy with it.

You can see more info in my build thread: Ol' Ruby build thread

Here’s my before and after ride height measurements (posts number 39 and 40): https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3692675-post39.html

[Paulmaz]

Sweet setup! thanks for posting. After more reading (I think my wife thinks i'm obsessed...) i found a site that will put the 880 together with the 5100. wheelersoffroad.com. $478 all-in for the combo. not bad!

[cl4Rk]

Originally Posted by Paulmaz

Sweet setup! thanks for posting. After more reading (I think my wife thinks i'm obsessed...) i found a site that will put the 880 together with the 5100. wheelersoffroad.com. $478 all-in for the combo. not bad!

The front 5100s are adjustable during spring installation. If you want a 1" to 1.5" lift in the front, then you'll have them set on the lowest perch.

Just fair warning, your CV axle boots will likely tear immediately after the lift. You'll want to budget either new or rebooted CV axles as part of the lift.

If you want to reboot them yourself you'll need two reboot kits 2x Toyota Part Number 0443835062 (Outboard: black grease, Inboard: tan grease)), a pair of Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers, and watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcCT4UgFUTw

Also, since you'll end up with about a 2" lift in the rear, you'll be right on the cusp of wanting a panhard correction kit (PCK). The kit is two weld-on bracket extensions that correct the angle of the panhard bar (track bar). Just something to consider. Panhard Correction Kits – eimkeith.com

EDIT: And if you're removing and reinstalling the panhard bar after adding the PCK, you'll want to replace the bushings. And if you replace the bushings on the panhard bar, you'll want to... LOL... Welcome to the forum...