[RhodeRunner]

Hey everybody, I've recently done my timing belt and water pump, did a general tuneup last year with new spark plugs and wiring etc. My 98 4Runner is from North Carolina originally at 170k. it's been out here in Rhode Island for about 7 years and I keep it pretty clean and everything but the bumper started rusted out so I just went to a junk yard (or 4) to find a clean-ish one to put on this Summer. so a couple Questions:

1. what should i do to stop / inhibit underbody rust? I'm washing the undercarriage pretty regularly in the Winter, but that's about it.

2. I'm due for a front brake / rotor replacement. Now I'm seeing all this info about the Tundra brake upgrade, but the difference of like $350 for the new parts vs $120 for 4Runner brakes/rotors makes me question if it's worth it. I don't really haul anything and I know the breaks are undersized but I'm very rarely hauling anything heavy in the back.

3. My E-brake was sticking and I got it unstuck, but i'm still having this issue where my brakes will stick until i give it some gas. I'm assuming maybe the drum brakes in the back are going, or I was reading it could be axle grease gumming up the rear brakes.. question is what should I have on hand when I take the back brakes apart in case it is axle grease? I was looking at some pretty in-depth tutorials, could this turn into a really big job?

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by RhodeRunner

Hey everybody, I've recently done my timing belt and water pump, did a general tuneup last year with new spark plugs and wiring etc. My 98 4Runner is from North Carolina originally at 170k. it's been out here in Rhode Island for about 7 years and I keep it pretty clean and everything but the bumper started rusted out so I just went to a junk yard (or 4) to find a clean-ish one to put on this Summer. so a couple Questions:

1. what should i do to stop / inhibit underbody rust? I'm washing the undercarriage pretty regularly in the Winter, but that's about it.

2. I'm due for a front brake / rotor replacement. Now I'm seeing all this info about the Tundra brake upgrade, but the difference of like $350 for the new parts vs $120 for 4Runner brakes/rotors makes me question if it's worth it. I don't really haul anything and I know the breaks are undersized but I'm very rarely hauling anything heavy in the back.

3. My E-brake was sticking and I got it unstuck, but i'm still having this issue where my brakes will stick until i give it some gas. I'm assuming maybe the drum brakes in the back are going, or I was reading it could be axle grease gumming up the rear brakes.. question is what should I have on hand when I take the back brakes apart in case it is axle grease?

1) I have no experience with that so I won't pretend to know.

2) I would stay with stock brakes. If you "upgrade" you will have a softer brake pedal which bothers most people. I would recommend that you replace your front and rear soft brake lines and do a brake fluid flush. The OEM rubber hoses deteriorate over time and can be damaged internally without being visible.

3) If anything it will be gear oil from the differential making its way past the rear axle seal. Pull the drum and check for wetness. If it's wet with gear oil then you will need to replace the rear axle seals/retainers/wheel bearings. Make sure to check/replace your rear axle vent as well. Any gear oil that makes it past the axle seal washes out the grease in the wheel bearing and will cause wheel bearing failure.

Alternatively you can put the rear axle on jack stands, remove the rear wheel speed sensors and rotate the wheels while looking at the ABS tone ring (assuming you have ABS). If the tone ring has gear oil on it then you have a bad rear axle seal.

[RhodeRunner]

Hey man, thanks for the info. I've got a pretty cool shop near me that rents out lifts / has all the tools and knowledgeable staff for like $20 an hour I think. I'm sure they'll have plenty of advice since they know how the salty winters out here just eat cars.

Beats a gravel driveway... I'll probably bring it there and replace the front brakes stock and pull the drums to see what's going on. I appreciate the help!

I was also planning on buying at RockAuto which i've had good experiences with in the past, do you have any advice as to other good sites for buying 3rd Gen 4Runner stuff?

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by RhodeRunner

Hey man, thanks for the info. I've got a pretty cool shop near me that rents out lifts / has all the tools and knowledgeable staff for like $20 an hour I think. I'm sure they'll have plenty of advice since they know how the salty winters out here just eat cars.

Beats a gravel driveway... I'll probably bring it there and replace the front brakes stock and pull the drums to see what's going on. I appreciate the help!

I was also planning on buying at RockAuto which i've had good experiences with in the past, do you have any advice as to other good sites for buying 3rd Gen 4Runner stuff?

Look up Fluid Film or Woolwax, it's what guys in the rust belt use to coat their undercarriages

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[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by RhodeRunner

I was also planning on buying at RockAuto which i've had good experiences with in the past, do you have any advice as to other good sites for buying 3rd Gen 4Runner stuff?

Wheelers offroad is a good website for aftermarket parts. If you are looking to do the timing belt/waterpump look up aircabinman on ebay. He sells OEM and good quality aftermarket kits.

As always, if you don't know when the lower ball joints were replaced last I would highly recommend replacing them AND the lower ball joint bolts before failure occurs and causes a lot of damage and may even cause an accident. If you tell me what year your 4Runner is I can tell you the part numbers for that.

If you have an automatic transmission I would also recommend replacing the radiator to prevent the transmission cooler in the radiator from failing and causing the strawberry milkshake destroying your transmission. $100-200 for a radiator is a lot better than $2000+ for a new transmission.

I like to tell people that you get what you pay for with automotive parts. If you pay crap you get crap. Try to buy at least mid tier parts unless you enjoy replacing them often.

[RhodeRunner]

Hey Guys,

Will definitely look into Fluid Film / Wool Wax. And Wheelers Offroad. I just got that exact kit from aircabinman on ebay and replaced the timing belt / waterpump.

I actually got the truck from my Uncle in North Carolina at around 170k miles maybe 7 years ago. I don't put a ton of miles on it so it's at 230k now. I'll ask him about the ball joints and radiator, he was an aircraft mechanic and took incredible care of the car. He was pissed he had to sell it but his wife was pretty adamant..

And yea, I always try and go for at least mid-range or higher quality parts, especially since i'm learning to do the work myself and saving so much $ on labor

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by RhodeRunner

Hey Guys,

Will definitely look into Fluid Film / Wool Wax. And Wheelers Offroad. I just got that exact kit from aircabinman on ebay and replaced the timing belt / waterpump.

I actually got the truck from my Uncle in North Carolina at around 170k miles maybe 7 years ago. I don't put a ton of miles on it so it's at 230k now. I'll ask him about the ball joints and radiator, he was an aircraft mechanic and took incredible care of the car. He was pissed he had to sell it but his wife was pretty adamant..

And yea, I always try and go for at least mid-range or higher quality parts, especially since i'm learning to do the work myself and saving so much $ on labor

A general guideline for most of us is to replace the lower ball joints and radiator every 10 years or 100k miles, unless you have the tools and know how to check the lower ball joints for excessive play. If you offroad a good amount your lower ball joints should be checked sooner.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by RhodeRunner

And yea, I always try and go for at least mid-range or higher quality parts, especially since i'm learning to do the work myself and saving so much $ on labor

Just stick to Toyota parts for the most part. They are not that much more expensive and the quality is irrefutable. Things that you can comfortable substitute from factory/OEM:
- belts
- fluids
- bushings (poly/offroad specific)
- shocks/springs (offroad specific)
- brake pads, shoes, rotors

Most consumables or offroad specialty parts when upgrading are fine. I prefer not to skimp on things like ball joints, tie rods or engine components.

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[octanejunkie]

Getting ready to put my sequoia rims on the 4WD with fresh 245/75s mounted.

From what I have been able to research, the stock 16" 4runner rim (16x7) is a +15mm offset

The sequoia rim is 17x7.5, but according to this post, has the same +15mm offset as the 16" 4runner rim.

When I used to run the sequoia rims on my 2WD with 265/70 Grabbers I ran a 1.5" spacer with factory UCAs and never rubbed.

Now, with SPC UCAs and 245/75s, I'm wondering if I need a spacer at all, or if I do, maybe 3/4"~1" at the most.

Lets go to the tape

I measured the 17x7.5 sequoia rim's backspace as 122mm (8.5" outside rim vs bead surface) which equals 4.80315 inches

I then measured the 16x7 stock split 3-spoke rim's backspace (8" outside rim vs bead surface) and got 117mm, which is 4.6063 inches

We know the sequoia rim is 1/2 inch wider than the 4runner rim, which is a 0.25" per side difference.

The difference between 4.80315" and 4.6063" is just under 0.2 inch (0.19685) which I can potentially attribute crude measuring, old eyes, etc.

So it seems very likely that the sequoia rim and the stock 4runner rim have the same or very similar backspacing, and no spacer is necessary ASSUMING the aspect ratio of the tire on each rim is the same/in the same ballpark.

It stands to reason that with the 245/75 on the sequoia rim, no spacer will be necessary, especially with a slightly narrower tire (vs 265/70 or 265/75 16)

Seems like a Tommy Want Wingy moment, what you guys think?

[Shmuckatelly]

Hi, I just had a question regarding the combination of manual hubs with a locked differential. Solo Motorsports has an adaption in there long travel kit to have dana 44 manual locking hubs. I figured I could do those and then get a spool piece for the front instead of a locker. Street would just have hubs unlocked, and off road they would be locked. There doesn't seem to be much information on this topic, can anyone explain to me why this wouldn't work?

[RandyBobandy]

Originally Posted by Shmuckatelly

Hi, I just had a question regarding the combination of manual hubs with a locked differential. Solo Motorsports has an adaption in there long travel kit to have dana 44 manual locking hubs. I figured I could do those and then get a spool piece for the front instead of a locker. Street would just have hubs unlocked, and off road they would be locked. There doesn't seem to be much information on this topic, can anyone explain to me why this wouldn't work?

If you’re going to the trouble of going into the front diff id just get a lunchbox locker to put in it, would probably be easier on the front end than a spool.

I have a lunchbox locker in the front and lockout hubs, I lock one hub if I want to use it on the street in snow or something like that, lock both if you want the front end locked

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by RandyBobandy

If you’re going to the trouble of going into the front diff id just get a lunchbox locker to put in it, would probably be easier on the front end than a spool.



I have a lunchbox locker in the front and lockout hubs, I lock one hub if I want to use it on the street in snow or something like that, lock both if you want the front end locked

Which lunch box locker did you put up front?

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[RandyBobandy]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Which lunch box locker did you put up front?

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I have a Spartan locker, I’ve also used the Aussie locker in the rear, both are good choices. I’d only get a front lunchbox locker when combined with manual hubs as locking one hub lets you use it like an open diff, kind of like a budget selectable. Rear lunchbox lockers behave pretty well with an auto trans but are way too clunky with a manual

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by RandyBobandy

I have a Spartan locker, I’ve also used the Aussie locker in the rear, both are good choices. I’d only get a front lunchbox locker when combined with manual hubs as locking one hub lets you use it like an open diff, kind of like a budget selectable. Rear lunchbox lockers behave pretty well with an auto trans but are way too clunky with a manual

I put an Aussie in my 2WD and learned to love it but hadn't considered adding one to my front diff, although I am going to manual hubs...

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[octanejunkie]

Looking for a headlight switch with a fog light drum/switch. Yes my truck is wired for dogs but didn't come with them from the factory

My VIN at the dealer doesn't offer me the correct PN, just the headlight dimmer w/o fog

Even calling the dealer with the VIN of my 2WD Sport doesn't get me the correct PN

Searching online I find 84140-14120 but I can't validate it will work/fit.

Help?