[clearock]

Originally Posted by chapolito

Is the rear seat support structural to the body? I'm thinking of removing the area around the bottle jack to fit a fridge under the sleeping platform. Would make the car a permanent 3 seater, but that's ok for what I use it for.

Mines a permanent 2 seater, removed all the rear seat floor support yrs ago and build a storage area under a flip up flat surface on one half for a larger sleeping area and on the other half a platform for a ARB fridge. On my current build I've removing the seat framing for both the rear and front seats from the floor pan.

[joeysyoda]

Hello T4R folks - new guy to the forum, but I've had a 4Runner for the majority of my driving life and, after my daughter totaled my last one, just got a new '97 SR5 to replace it. The new one is in great shape, but nobody can figure out why the brakes are EXTREMELY touchy and unpredictable. I've had two shops look at it and the best guess is a faulty ABS modulator, but no codes are being thrown. Any thoughts from the seasoned vets in the group? Brakes are all adjusted correctly. New front and back brakes and new shoes and machined drums in the back. A slight push on the brake pedal lurches the truck to almost a full stop and it will periodically pull to the right when this happens. A full push on the brakes will engage ABS immediately. My last rig didn't brake like this at all, so any ideas would be appreciated!

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by clearock

On my current build I've removing the seat framing for both the rear and front seats from the floor pan.

Thinking cage mounts that'll work.

[Hoosier1114]

I have a 2000 limited 2WD, Auto, that currently has 347,512 miles. I purchased in December 2014 @112k miles. Until last March, I lived in Marion County Florida, (which is where my Toyota was from...never in cold weather.) I have family in Louisville Kentucky, and an illness in the family led me to drive 23 round trips from Ocala to Louisville between 2016 and 2021. Never an issue...NOT ONE. Until 7 weeks ago, it was cold, I went out at 8 am to start it and get the ice off of the windows. It ran fine for almost 20 minutes. An hour later when my wife was leaving for work, it wouldn't hit a lick! Sounded like the timing belt had broken.(quicker than usual spinning of the engine) anyway, it's not the timing belt, I have since replaced the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, 6 injectors, plugs, idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, replace fuel pump, and checked and replaced all fuses and/or relays as needed! No fire to the coil packs. I 8nstalled a new igniter, no luck. Only thing left is the ECM. I pull it out and pop off the cover, three diodes, or whatever they are up in one corner is corroded all over. Tried cleaning them up, without any luck. Has anyone been in this position with their 4Runner? Someone told me that it wasn't the ECM, but my keys? I'm at the end of my rope. Almost 2 months without a vehicle! Any ideas, thoughts, or whatever would be greatly appreciated! Any way I can test my keys? Getting plenty of fuel, brand new battery, started less than 4 months old. Why isn't it getting fire. Where can I send the ECM to be properly tested, or programed? Thank you in advance for your time! Have a great afternoon!

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by joeysyoda

Hello T4R folks - new guy to the forum, but I've had a 4Runner for the majority of my driving life and, after my daughter totaled my last one, just got a new '97 SR5 to replace it. The new one is in great shape, but nobody can figure out why the brakes are EXTREMELY touchy and unpredictable. I've had two shops look at it and the best guess is a faulty ABS modulator, but no codes are being thrown. Any thoughts from the seasoned vets in the group? Brakes are all adjusted correctly. New front and back brakes and new shoes and machined drums in the back. A slight push on the brake pedal lurches the truck to almost a full stop and it will periodically pull to the right when this happens. A full push on the brakes will engage ABS immediately. My last rig didn't brake like this at all, so any ideas would be appreciated!

Check the rear parking brake mechanism. it's over tight or not adjusted properly, the bell crank are not functioning.

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Hoosier1114

I have a 2000 limited 2WD, Auto, that currently has 347,512 miles. I purchased in December 2014 @112k miles. Until last March, I lived in Marion County Florida, (which is where my Toyota was from...never in cold weather.) I have family in Louisville Kentucky, and an illness in the family led me to drive 23 round trips from Ocala to Louisville between 2016 and 2021. Never an issue...NOT ONE. Until 7 weeks ago, it was cold, I went out at 8 am to start it and get the ice off of the windows. It ran fine for almost 20 minutes. An hour later when my wife was leaving for work, it wouldn't hit a lick! Sounded like the timing belt had broken.(quicker than usual spinning of the engine) anyway, it's not the timing belt, I have since replaced the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, 6 injectors, plugs, idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, replace fuel pump, and checked and replaced all fuses and/or relays as needed! No fire to the coil packs. I 8nstalled a new igniter, no luck. Only thing left is the ECM. I pull it out and pop off the cover, three diodes, or whatever they are up in one corner is corroded all over. Tried cleaning them up, without any luck. Has anyone been in this position with their 4Runner? Someone told me that it wasn't the ECM, but my keys? I'm at the end of my rope. Almost 2 months without a vehicle! Any ideas, thoughts, or whatever would be greatly appreciated! Any way I can test my keys? Getting plenty of fuel, brand new battery, started less than 4 months old. Why isn't it getting fire. Where can I send the ECM to be properly tested, or programed? Thank you in advance for your time! Have a great afternoon!

You checked all the fuses including the sta7.5 in the cab fuse box etc. I assume it's cranking and the starter is turning since you know there is no spark at the plugs. If you replaced the ignitor then you can test the ecm per the fsm. Best replacement bet get a salvage yard your year or ebay. If it's just a click and no starter engagement then it could be the ignition, neutral safety switch, starter or a relay. In this case you can jump pin 3 and 5 at the engine fuse box after removing the starter relay which has tabs holding it down.

[octanejunkie]

Shopping for an AGM battery, it's between 2 sizes: Group 35 and 34R

The 34R is more powerful/desirable, albeit larger, it "supposedly fits" the 3rd Gen - but will it fit the plastic battery tray?

Group 35/85
9.563" x 6.75" x 7.75"

Group 34R
Size: 10.75" x 6.875" x 8"

Anyone have experience with a 34R in a 3rd Gen?
(I tried searching before posting)

EDIT
Found this
3rd Gen Battery Options
One mention of 34/34R

[Endlessblockades]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Shopping for an AGM battery, it's between 2 sizes: Group 35 and 34R

The 34R is more powerful/desirable, albeit larger, it "supposedly fits" the 3rd Gen - but will it fit the plastic battery tray?

Group 35/85
9.563" x 6.75" x 7.75"

Group 34R
Size: 10.75" x 6.875" x 8"

Anyone have experience with a 34R in a 3rd Gen?
(I tried searching before posting)

EDIT
Found this
3rd Gen Battery Options
One mention of 34/34R

Edit - I missed your Edit and now realize this doesn't answer your tray question anyway :facepalm:

I came here to ask a dumb question and will do so shortly. I happened to be reading an article earlier on the Optima site stating that a Group 34 battery will fit - the R means the positive terminal is on the Right, correct?

"When Toyota 4Runner owners move into the third generation in the 1996 model year, the battery replacement options change and scale back to either the Group 34 REDTOP or the Group 35 REDTOP or YELLOWTOP This link will trigger a popup message.. The Group 34 REDTOP is larger than the 35 and will offer more cranking amps, but like the previous generations, if your 4Runner is what would be considered a "deep-cycle" application, we would recommend the Group 35 YELLOWTOP."

[Endlessblockades]

OK.......dumb question time:

Sitting my rig warming up (yes, I still do that every time) I noticed that on the driver side there is no hand hold like there is on the passenger side in picture, but there are 2 mounting screw holes of the correct dimensions that I can feel behind the fabric - I wonder why. That's all.

Edit - I suppose it means it must have been an 'option'? Man I'm extra dumb today. Dumb In Public.

[fatherohenry]

Originally Posted by Endlessblockades

OK.......dumb question time:

Sitting my rig warming up (yes, I still do that every time) I noticed that on the driver side there is no hand hold like there is on the passenger side in picture, but there are 2 mounting screw holes of the correct dimensions that I can feel behind the fabric - I wonder why. That's all

On May 27 of last year I cut a slit in the headliner where there holes are and bolted in a handle I got from Pick-n-Pull. First time I ever really used it has been this week after an old back injury flared up. Glad I did it. (no idea why that picture makes everything look so dirty!)

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Endlessblockades

OK.......dumb question time:

Sitting my rig warming up (yes, I still do that every time) I noticed that on the driver side there is no hand hold like there is on the passenger side in picture, but there are 2 mounting screw holes of the correct dimensions that I can feel behind the fabric - I wonder why. That's all.

Edit - I suppose it means it must have been an 'option'? Man I'm extra dumb today. Dumb In Public.

It's there for right hand drive models

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Endlessblockades]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

It's there for right hand drive models

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Of course! Makes sense - I was being very LHD.

[benamaro]

Hey All,

My check engine light was on so I took it over to the local auto zone to use their scan tool. Code P0171 came up and it was suggested I replace my MAF sensor. I cleaned the MAF before a few times then decided to go to my local Toyota dealer and buy a new MAF. The check engine light turned off then after 16 miles turned back on. I've already checked for any abrasions bubbles or cuts on all rubber hoses and it all checks out, no leaks. any thoughts?

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by benamaro

Hey All,

My check engine light was on so I took it over to the local auto zone to use their scan tool. Code P0171 came up and it was suggested I replace my MAF sensor. I cleaned the MAF before a few times then decided to go to my local Toyota dealer and buy a new MAF. The check engine light turned off then after 16 miles turned back on. I've already checked for any abrasions bubbles or cuts on all rubber hoses and it all checks out, no leaks. any thoughts?

p0171 system too lean too much air not enough fuel. Check for vacuum leaks. dry, cracked hoses. Spray carb cleaner on the intake to see if there is a leak.
edit. pcv valve and hose are good.

[RandyBobandy]

Originally Posted by benamaro

Hey All,

My check engine light was on so I took it over to the local auto zone to use their scan tool. Code P0171 came up and it was suggested I replace my MAF sensor. I cleaned the MAF before a few times then decided to go to my local Toyota dealer and buy a new MAF. The check engine light turned off then after 16 miles turned back on. I've already checked for any abrasions bubbles or cuts on all rubber hoses and it all checks out, no leaks. any thoughts?

Replace your primary oxygen sensor if you haven’t already, it’s a maintenance item anyway so even if it doesn’t fix the issue it isn’t expensive and can only help