[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by chapolito

I guess my attempt to use dropbox has failed. Updated with an attached image.

I can see it now, but have no clue what that might be for.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

I can see it now, but have no clue what that might be for.

Now I'm curious...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Fractured]

I’ve got no time on my hands, just like all of you. So, here’s the question.

I bought a 2002 4runner SR5 Sport. Great right? Not yet. Second day after getting it home the upper ball joint decided 230,000 miles was enough. It’s sitting in front of garage. Where’s the question right?

I have a gmc k1500 sitting right next to it. The gmc had new BFG 285/75/16 on it. The truck needs new cv axles then it’s going to be sold. Do you see the trade coming up?

I want to put the new BFG’s on the Toyota.

What is the absolute “right” way to achieve this? I’m guessing from what I’ve read that I’ll need:

Quality 3” Suspension
Performance upper support arms
1 inch body lift

That’s where it gets clouded. Is anything needed for steering adjustments? Front differential? I don’t know. I can only afford to do this one time. The sale of the GMC is going into the Toyota.

That’s where I’m at. I have some mental issues that greatly reduces my ability to visualize a project from start to finish. I used to. I was a carpenter for 25 years. I could build a given project in head from start to finish. I would figure every detail in my head. Now, I can’t. I can do anything, but it has to be broken down into steps. It sucks, but that’s just what it is. I’ve read about every post there is regarding this project, but I’m afraid of skipping over something and having to redo what was already done.

Hey, if your still reading this your attention span is better than mine.

A list of what’s needed, in order, would be awesome. I don’t need super details, I can figure things out if I know what the following task should be.

Thanks. Every single person is busy working and living. If you don’t have time or are in the same boat I’m in, no problems. I pretty sure of I keep reading through the posts I’ll figure it out. like I said, I’m lazy.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Fractured

I’ve got no time on my hands, just like all of you. So, here’s the question.

I bought a 2002 4runner SR5 Sport. Great right? Not yet. Second day after getting it home the upper ball joint decided 230,000 miles was enough. It’s sitting in front of garage. Where’s the question right?

I have a gmc k1500 sitting right next to it. The gmc had new BFG 285/75/16 on it. The truck needs new cv axles then it’s going to be sold. Do you see the trade coming up?

I want to put the new BFG’s on the Toyota.

What is the absolute “right” way to achieve this? I’m guessing from what I’ve read that I’ll need:

Quality 3” Suspension
Performance upper support arms
1 inch body lift

That’s where it gets clouded. Is anything needed for steering adjustments? Front differential? I don’t know. I can only afford to do this one time. The sale of the GMC is going into the Toyota.

That’s where I’m at. I have some mental issues that greatly reduces my ability to visualize a project from start to finish. I used to. I was a carpenter for 25 years. I could build a given project in head from start to finish. I would figure every detail in my head. Now, I can’t. I can do anything, but it has to be broken down into steps. It sucks, but that’s just what it is. I’ve read about every post there is regarding this project, but I’m afraid of skipping over something and having to redo what was already done.

Hey, if your still reading this your attention span is better than mine.

A list of what’s needed, in order, would be awesome. I don’t need super details, I can figure things out if I know what the following task should be.

Thanks. Every single person is busy working and living. If you don’t have time or are in the same boat I’m in, no problems. I pretty sure of I keep reading through the posts I’ll figure it out. like I said, I’m lazy.

If you are only concerned about clearing those tires at ride height then a suspension lift is all you need. If you are going to Offroad or flex any then you’ll need to clearance the body and probably the bumper. Here’s a good read that should explain it better Clearing 35” Tires at any Ride Height - Coastal Offroad

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by Fractured

I’ve got no time on my hands, just like all of you. So, here’s the question.

I bought a 2002 4runner SR5 Sport. Great right? Not yet. Second day after getting it home the upper ball joint decided 230,000 miles was enough. It’s sitting in front of garage. Where’s the question right?

I have a gmc k1500 sitting right next to it. The gmc had new BFG 285/75/16 on it. The truck needs new cv axles then it’s going to be sold. Do you see the trade coming up?

I want to put the new BFG’s on the Toyota.

What is the absolute “right” way to achieve this? I’m guessing from what I’ve read that I’ll need:

Quality 3” Suspension
Performance upper support arms
1 inch body lift

That’s where it gets clouded. Is anything needed for steering adjustments? Front differential? I don’t know. I can only afford to do this one time. The sale of the GMC is going into the Toyota.

That’s where I’m at. I have some mental issues that greatly reduces my ability to visualize a project from start to finish. I used to. I was a carpenter for 25 years. I could build a given project in head from start to finish. I would figure every detail in my head. Now, I can’t. I can do anything, but it has to be broken down into steps. It sucks, but that’s just what it is. I’ve read about every post there is regarding this project, but I’m afraid of skipping over something and having to redo what was already done.

Hey, if your still reading this your attention span is better than mine.

A list of what’s needed, in order, would be awesome. I don’t need super details, I can figure things out if I know what the following task should be.

Thanks. Every single person is busy working and living. If you don’t have time or are in the same boat I’m in, no problems. I pretty sure of I keep reading through the posts I’ll figure it out. like I said, I’m lazy.

That's about the long and skinny of it. Would be a good time to do lower ball joints too just for the preventative measure. Longer brake lines will be needed and longer sway bar links too (1 inch longer for both if I'm not wrong, there's a couple ways to go about this). Extended parking brake bracket is a good touch to have so you don't stress out the cable

Nothing required for the diffs, but you might benefit from things like a diff drop or the ECGS clamshell bushing.

Regarding the whole "steering adjustments" thing that's where the UCAs come into play; you'll see a lot of talk about SPC control arms (or the copies from Mevotech) that have an adjustable ball joint which will give a technician a TON more options for setting your alignment much more akin to what's achievable in stock configuration. If you were talking about longer tie rods, that's not necessary (at least not that I'm aware of, I foolishly didn't buy a body lift so if there's something related in that regard then I wouldn't be aware)

In your position I would start making a list of things, as from a grand overview like you've established there's really not a lot to it - however I think you'll find there's a lot of little things you'll be trying to keep track of as you go forward that will ultimately serve as a pain in the ass. For example the differences between shocks and coils (both front+rear) and anything that's needed to install them (certain bushings, washers, etc.) Even in the event you were to skip the hassle and buy a kit from someone, there's also lots of things you might end up needing but aren't entirely necessary for installing a lift (diff drop, ECGS bushing, CV boot stretch, new driveline, etc) or certain things you might find very convenient to repair while you're at it. If you haven't already you can browse through the Lift FAQ and pretty readily find the majority of these little extras, if not all of them.

[JoeT4R]

Why is it that my 2001 T4R 3.4L calls for the YZZD1 oil filter whereas my Dad’s 2003 Taco 3.4L calls for the YZZD3? I’ve been running the D3’s for the last few years but really want to know what the difference is and why Toyota decided that.

[3bears]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

Why is it that my 2001 T4R 3.4L calls for the YZZD1 oil filter whereas my Dad’s 2003 Taco 3.4L calls for the YZZD3? I’ve been running the D3’s for the last few years but really want to know what the difference is and why Toyota decided that.

well as you have discovered ....you can run the D3 on the 4runner.....I do on mine. Difference is you pick up more filter area and about 1/4 qt more oil. There is no difference other than that, that I know of

But why toyota had a different filter for the 3.4 taco I dont know. Is there more frame clearance ? A bigger filter for a "work" vehicle ?

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by 3bears

well as you have discovered ....you can run the D3 on the 4runner.....I do on mine. Difference is you pick up more filter area and about 1/4 qt more oil. There is no difference other than that, that I know of

But why toyota had a different filter for the 3.4 taco I dont know. Is there more frame clearance ? A bigger filter for a "work" vehicle ?

I read some commentary on another forum post that discussed potential differences and how running an oversized filter could potentially harm your engine as opposed to providing a better filtering component. I don’t know what to believe. I’ve ran the D3’s for years and would like to believe they filter “somewhat” better than the D1’s. Only logical explanation would be what you said about different framework. Thanks for the input!

[NCThundercloud]

What's going in fellow 3rd gen owners, I'm new to the community and am looking for some guidance and most updated info on the dreaded tundra trd front coil lift.

I purchased this coils already but can not seem to find the proper strut to use if some guidance could be given I would greatly appreciate this.

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

I read some commentary on another forum post that discussed potential differences and how running an oversized filter could potentially harm your engine as opposed to providing a better filtering component. I don’t know what to believe. I’ve ran the D3’s for years and would like to believe they filter “somewhat” better than the D1’s. Only logical explanation would be what you said about different framework. Thanks for the input!

I mean if you were running a filter double the size or if you had some newer, more sensitive car - yeah I could potentially see that - but the difference between the two isn't that large all things considered. I take a lot of oil discussion with a big grain of salt; case in point being the BOITG forum. Some of those guys are straight geniuses and know just about everything there possibly is to know about oil, additives, filters, what have you - but then they turn right around and recommend Fram above anything else

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by Devbot

I mean if you were running a filter double the size or if you had some newer, more sensitive car - yeah I could potentially see that - but the difference between the two isn't that large all things considered. I take a lot of oil discussion with a big grain of salt; case in point being the BOITG forum. Some of those guys are straight geniuses and know just about everything there possibly is to know about oil, additives, filters, what have you - but then they turn right around and recommend Fram above anything else

Thanks for the feedback. Heh, Fram... I cry.

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by NCThundercloud

What's going in fellow 3rd gen owners, I'm new to the community and am looking for some guidance and most updated info on the dreaded tundra trd front coil lift.

I purchased this coils already but can not seem to find the proper strut to use if some guidance could be given I would greatly appreciate this.

You need adjustable front shocks for a 1999-2006 Toyota Tundra. Popular choice is Bilstein BIL-24-261425. You'll also need the top strut hat/mount/bushing/hardware for a 1996-2002 4Runner to complete the shock/strut assembly.

[mcrkitek]

I currently have a 2020 limited and am considering buying this 2001 limited 4Runner and would appreciate opinions. 2001 limited, 102,000 miles, 1 owner vehicle. The owner has serviced the vehicle every 6 mos. The vehicle was purchased new in Minnesota, after 18 mos the owners moved to California and has been there ever since. 18,000

[Devbot]

Personally I would instead take that $18k and buy some sense
Genuinely and honestly asking here: what makes you believe that is worth that kind of money? It seems like every month thse cars cost more and more but everyone questions the pricetag less and less; the prices get worse but the interest grows bigger. It makes absolutely no sense, even from the inside

[Brian.]

Originally Posted by mcrkitek

$18,000

Repos are current going through the roof as defaults are on the upswing... and this is the Start of a readjustment period. Used car prices are going to tank in the next year (if trends follow sub-prime loan balloon bursts in other markets). I sure as heck wouldn't spend that kind of money on a 3rd gen 4runner ~ that's honest collector car money, something with Limited production runs (not 750 million units sold in the US alone).

Miles are too high to be a in the desirable range for "survivor collector". Condition is too nice to be a daily driver. It's treading no-mans land, fishing for the one person out of a couple billion who's foolish enough to part with that kind of money for something so unremarkable.