[Storm01]

Hey all. I figured I'd ask here since you all are incredibly helpful with the issues with my rig. My T4R; a 2001 with the 5VZ-FE has been making this knocking sound for roughly a year and a half almost two years, runs great other than the noise. She has 310,000 overall but only 110,000 on rebuilt motor. This truck is my daily/hunting/wheeling rig. During the summer, I drive through the mountain pass every weekend for my job in Garden City @ 50-65MPH around 2000-3000RPM. No loss of power, still pulls strong; especially in the low end. The knock tends to be the loudest in gear, cold. The knock gets much less noticeable once she's up to temp and warm. Once it's in Reverse or Drive, she knocks the loudest; put it in neutral/park and it almost vanishes but you can still slightly hear it. The knock seems to be loudest near the bottom half of the engine bay/transmission area. The knock can be heard from idle to roughly 1800-2000RPM then it vanishes or gets drowned out by the exhaust/fan. It gets quieter as RPMs increase. I cut open my oil filter every oil change to try and find evidence of maybe a Rod/Crank bearing wearing out and no metal at all . Always comes out smooth and good oil pressure. I tried running my automotive magnet that I use for Diesel work through it and no metal that I'm able to see/pick up. I understand that the 3.4 is a very strong motor but if this was a major, catastrophic issue, she would have blown up a long time ago. Any advice? Here's some videos I recorded of the sound, sorry if they aren't the best. I'm thinking the flexplate/TC or maybe a piston issue? Any help is appreciated.
5VZFE initial cold start knock - YouTube
5VZFE knock: Cold at idle - YouTube
5VZFE knock: warm at idle - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpGfh1TECq4

[jrm]

Noticed that reman calipers are going for $120 w/o a core or $91 ea. with a core. And that the same calipers from a junk yard can be had for at least half that. What are risks buying calipers from a junk yard? Is there a way to test um to make sure they still work?

Cheers

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by jrm

Noticed that reman calipers are going for $120 w/o a core or $91 ea. with a core. And that the same calipers from a junk yard can be had for at least half that. What are risks buying calipers from a junk yard? Is there a way to test um to make sure they still work?

Cheers

Remans are already rebuilt and hopefully under some QC and testing process. Junkyard calipers is like gambling unless you rebuild them.

I have a set of new calipers, drilled and slotted rotors and pads for sale that I'm not using, $200 complete. Where are you located?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[jrm]

Sorry i didnt mention that im after tundra 213 calipers...Im in Alameda,Ca.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by jrm

Sorry i didnt mention that im after tundra 213 calipers...Im in Alameda,Ca.

Casting 13WL is what you're after

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Devbot]

Anyone ever throw vinyl seats in their 4Runner? We have them in our Jeep and it's easily some of the best money ever spent; you almost NEVER have to clean them and when you do it's a simple wipe down with a rag. I'm curious to see what they'd look like in our vehicles, I think they have the potential to fit right in if you get a matching color

[96RedRunner]

@Devbot , vinyl seat covers ah hell no my azz stuck to burnt legs first 18 yrs of my life.

Like the idea 2017-18 I checked into using marine grade more boat shops than auto shops my area.
Colors close required Fr & Rr for me, not looking for that at the time.
20 yr old Boats taken care of can look good figure it'd be same better in Runner.

[96RedRunner]

I'm seeing 187-192* 22k mi on everything plus condensor OE T-stat @ 06:00.

That's Spec, courious what people are actually seeing.
Came to mind browsing parts other day, would a 170* T-stat have any benefit ?

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

@Devbot , vinyl seat covers ah hell no my azz stuck to burnt legs first 18 yrs of my life.

Like the idea 2017-18 I checked into using marine grade more boat shops than auto shops my area.
Colors close required Fr & Rr for me, not looking for that at the time.
20 yr old Boats taken care of can look good figure it'd be same better in Runner.

I wasn't talking about covers, I was talking about a full replacement and reupholstery, I think seat covers look and feel very cheap personally. Vinyl does indeed get hot but nothing worse than leather. I actually prefer cloth 9/10 times however I work a job that gets incredibly dirty sometimes (diesel tech/engineer for power generation), so I'm willing to put up with toasty seats instead some that are all black and stained from carbon. I don't even own a pair of shorts so it shouldn't be a problem really
Marine grade is a clever idea, there's some good automotive upholstery around me but I also live on the coast in a port town, so definitely no shortage of boat shops either. I'll keep that in the back of my mind

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by Devbot

I wasn't talking about covers, I was talking about a full replacement and reupholstery..

We on the same page.

[Qsilver5150]

Hey I blew my efi fuel fuse on my 1999 v6 manual today because my o2 sensor was fried. I accidentally ran it over the exhaust which melted the inside wires. I got the fuse replaced and just disconnected the sensor. I still need to pass smog though so I need it connected. I was wondering if I could repair it by splicing in new wires or if I need to buy a new one. I just don’t know if it fried the entire sensor or just the wires and I don’t feel like buying another fuse so I kinda need a for sure answer. Thanks!

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by Qsilver5150

Hey I blew my efi fuel fuse on my 1999 v6 manual today because my o2 sensor was fried. I accidentally ran it over the exhaust which melted the inside wires. I got the fuse replaced and just disconnected the sensor. I still need to pass smog though so I need it connected. I was wondering if I could repair it by splicing in new wires or if I need to buy a new one. I just don’t know if it fried the entire sensor or just the wires and I don’t feel like buying another fuse so I kinda need a for sure answer. Thanks!

Why not just splice new wires and give it a gamble? Worst case scenario you're out 10 cents worth of red+black and 10 minutes of your time, best case you saved yourself like $50

[Qsilver5150]

Originally Posted by Devbot

Why not just splice new wires and give it a gamble? Worst case scenario you're out 10 cents worth of red+black and 10 minutes of your time, best case you saved yourself like $50

Ok I’ll give it a try. I hope it works.

[Mnoland1015]

What are yalls thoughts on buying an already built 2000 4runner with 215,000 miles on it. But it has been baselined along with upgrades and well maintained vs buying a stock 4runner with lower mileage and doing the baseline and upgrades yourself.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Mnoland1015

What are yalls thoughts on buying an already built 2000 4runner with 215,000 miles on it. But it has been baselined along with upgrades and well maintained vs buying a stock 4runner with lower mileage and doing the baseline and upgrades yourself.

I always prefer to do my own mods, upgrades and maintenance, but there is a market for "built" vehicles.

It all comes down to:
1. Do you like what the PO did, does it align with your use-goals?
2. Do you trust their word/records?
3. Does the price being asked represent value to you?

No matter what 20+ year old vehicle you buy, always plan on doing a share of maintenance and updates for piece of mind.

I'll always check and/or replace fluids, brakes and plan on LBJs, radiator, timing belt, tires, etc. I budget $2-3K for that on top of the purchase price to freshen up the rig; not including any mods.

At the very least, if you are not in love with the rig and what the PO did, you may want to think twice - especially at a premium price.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk