07-25-2020, 07:10 PM
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#106
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: MS
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Real Name: Mark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywonger
Do you know where the ABS computer is located or is it the same part that i replaced?
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Part of module you replaced
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07-31-2020, 12:49 PM
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#107
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: Canada
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
Part of module you replaced
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Oh yes, that's what i replaced. I ended up pulling ABS1 fuse and its drive-able. Thoughts if the black module on the brake master cylinder could be causing the ABS to go off while i brake every time (with ABS1 fuse in).
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07-31-2020, 03:44 PM
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#108
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Riverside, California
Posts: 169
Real Name: Joshua
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
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Real Name: Joshua
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The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
Alright I'm stumped..
My side mirrors will not move anymore from the controls.. I have checked the fuses. They're all good. I replaced the controller on the drivers door still no luck. For some odd reason there is no power going to the controller..
Any ideas are much appreciated
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07-31-2020, 04:37 PM
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#109
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaDudee
Alright I'm stumped..
My side mirrors will not move anymore from the controls.. I have checked the fuses. They're all good. I replaced the controller on the drivers door still no luck. For some odd reason there is no power going to the controller..
Any ideas are much appreciated
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Where the wiring runs out of the body and into the door is a known failure point on these cars. That would be the first thing I would check. I'm not sure if a broken wire in one door would affect both mirrors though.
This video is for the rear hatch, but covers the same issue of broken wires and how to repair them if needed.
Edit: Just reread that you don't have power going to the the controller, have you actually checked to see if you have power at the connector that plugs in to the switch panel?
Last edited by Skulking; 07-31-2020 at 04:40 PM.
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07-31-2020, 04:57 PM
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#110
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1
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Is this a fair price? I have never purchased a 4runner before, and I would like some experienced advice.
Here is the info from the sale post:
Listed price: 8500
Mileage: 213k
"I have a 3rd Generation 1998 4Runner 4x4 in decent condition with a few exceptions.
The good: everything works on it and it's ready to roll. Lots of maintenance has been completed using Toyota parts
Complete rebuild on the heads (213k mi)
Pass CV Boots/Joints/Axle (213k)
Oil Pan Gasket (213k)
New battery from Toyota (213k)
New plugs and coils (209k)
New radiator belts and hoses (209k)
Driver CV Boots/Joints/Axle (209k)
Timing belt and water pump @ 209K (I always had those done at the same time)
New Brakes (200k)
New rack & pinion (190k)
New automatic window switches (recently, but don't remember miles)
SS Lift Kit (175k)
New rear axle seals (175k)
New Borla exhaust (175k)
Lift Kit (175k)
Torque converter (150k)
New Rubber Door Seals (150k)
New plug wire harness (150k)
You can tell by the photos I installed a suspension lift and tire/wheel package, its the Sonora Steel 1.2 lift with a set of 33's so its got a nice ride height. The interior is in great condition for the age. Those seat covers were originally sold at Toyota and still look amazing. I added a pair of hood struts so I didn't have to deal with that wacky half-baked prop-up stick. Also replaced the tail-gate struts. I've had this truck since 2002 and am the 2nd owner. It runs great and its been my daily driver for some time but I'm working from home now so miles probably won't increase too much. Never, ever, smoked in.
Now the rough: sadly, it has a couple dings, one on the rocker panel and one on the back tail gate."
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07-31-2020, 10:01 PM
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#111
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,196
Real Name: Devan
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Is there any particular reason why people run Tundra TRD coils in front but NOT the rear?
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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07-31-2020, 11:10 PM
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#112
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Riverside, California
Posts: 169
Real Name: Joshua
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
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The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skulking
Where the wiring runs out of the body and into the door is a known failure point on these cars. That would be the first thing I would check. I'm not sure if a broken wire in one door would affect both mirrors though.
This video is for the rear hatch, but covers the same issue of broken wires and how to repair them if needed.
Edit: Just reread that you don't have power going to the the controller, have you actually checked to see if you have power at the connector that plugs in to the switch panel?
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No there is no power going to the connector at all. (the pins show no power when I use a multimeter)
I just took apart the door panel, and all the wires look perfect. No cracks or exposed wires..
EDIT:
I actually do have power..
Only on this one pin though..
EDIT EDIT:
I have power on all pins once I press a button on the switch. Do you think possibly a bad ground could cause this? And does anyone know where the ground is for this switch
Not sure what to do now damn it..
Last edited by JoshuaDudee; 07-31-2020 at 11:43 PM.
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07-31-2020, 11:52 PM
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#113
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaDudee
No there is no power going to the connector at all. (the pins show no power when I use a multimeter)
I just took apart the door panel, and all the wires look perfect. No cracks or exposed wires..
EDIT:
I actually do have power..
Only on this one pin though.. Not sure what to do now damn it..
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What year is your 4runner? I only have electrical diagrams for my 2000, and I know that year to year there are differences, if you make the request someone else may have the diagrams for your year.
Based on the diagram for my 2000 (Attached) that is pin 9 which is the only pin which should have power. Pin 10 which is the pin to the left of the pin with power in the photo you attached should always have continuity with ground. The rest of the pins are used to distribute power based on the switches being pressed. Assuming you have a 2000 or at least the same mirror wiring as a 2000, and you have 12v pin 9 to ground and continuity pin 10 to ground, then you have power and it is either both mirror switches you have tried, or it is a problem with wiring running from the switches to the mirror motors.
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08-01-2020, 08:15 AM
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#114
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywonger
Thoughts if the black module on the brake master cylinder could be causing the ABS to go off while i brake every time (with ABS1 fuse in).
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Not being able to get the ZP Cal to complete I think is the problem.
The MC is working, it's just confused. The sensors you replaced tell orientation of vehicle to module, module telling MC to do it's thing.
3 relays for system on right inner fender could be a problem, I doubt it because system is kicking in, worth checking I'd say.
Troubleshooting Info is limited in FSM brake section, net not much help either. Toyota used last two years of 3rd gen to get it right for 4th gen.
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08-01-2020, 08:54 AM
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#115
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Member
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 84
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What are the part numbers for the gasket and bolts/nuts for the flange where the cat converter meets the exhaust pipe?
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2001 SR5 4WD
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08-03-2020, 12:43 AM
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#116
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
Not being able to get the ZP Cal to complete I think is the problem.
The MC is working, it's just confused. The sensors you replaced tell orientation of vehicle to module, module telling MC to do it's thing.
3 relays for system on right inner fender could be a problem, I doubt it because system is kicking in, worth checking I'd say.
Troubleshooting Info is limited in FSM brake section, net not much help either. Toyota used last two years of 3rd gen to get it right for 4th gen.
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Ah i see. I replaced one of those relays back in Feb. Which fixed a code problem. The other ones seem to be alright. I just don't not know what else to do to try and get to ZP cal.
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08-03-2020, 09:17 AM
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#117
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
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Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
Is there any particular reason why people run Tundra TRD coils in front but NOT the rear?
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Tundra's only have front coil springs and they don't fit in the rear of a 4Runner.
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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08-03-2020, 10:00 PM
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#118
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NOVA
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Does anyone run their ECT PWR mode full time? Is it okay to do so? I have been lately for the last couple hundred miles or so but haven’t noticed much change in MPG’s if any at all.
What has your experience with it been like?
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08-03-2020, 10:09 PM
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#119
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: UT
Age: 20
Posts: 488
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Location: UT
Age: 20
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What's the best approach to replacing the steering wheel? I know I saw one at the local junkyard but it didn't have an airbag.
Also, my engine is spitting code 'P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1'
I know there's a bunch of probable causes of this code according to Google.
What most likely is the issue?
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1998 4Runner Limited 4WD w/Rear Locker
281k Miles
Build Thread
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Last edited by RodrickHeffley; 08-03-2020 at 10:11 PM.
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08-03-2020, 10:41 PM
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#120
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 522
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Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
Does anyone run their ECT PWR mode full time? Is it okay to do so? I have been lately for the last couple hundred miles or so but haven’t noticed much change in MPG’s if any at all.
What has your experience with it been like?
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It's fine. It just adjusts the shift points to help you stay in the power band more when towing. Obviously it does impact mileage some, but if you aren't noticing a difference, then the impact is likely negligible for your driving patterns.
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