04-06-2021, 12:26 AM
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#331
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,187
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,187
Real Name: Devan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
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Ah I see the difference now comparing them on ECGS, that's major bummer. Thanks for the reply. Really don't wanna spend the money for a regearing
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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04-06-2021, 12:34 PM
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#332
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
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Not the news I wanted
Hello folks!
Well, got some shitty news today. I took my truck in to replace lower ball joints and diagnose a P0300 code. Just got a call from the shop, sounds like there's an issue with my cylinder heads. I wrote down everything he shared with me so you can get the whole picture.
-Temp gauge went to the red when he pulled the truck in (Never done that before)
-Heat wasn't blowing in the cab
-Radiator was super hot and low on coolant (hasn't found any coolant leaks yet)
-Did a block test and it came back positive. Oil or exhaust somewhere in the system
His diagnosis is that we'll need to teardown the engine and send the cylinder heads off to a machine shop and then rebuild the engine. He said roughly 4-6 weeks for the job and a rough estimate of $2000. If you've seen my posts before, you know that this is my first car I've ever purchased and I'm really a beginner.
Can anyone provide some insight on this? Trying to figure out what the best course of action is and also trying to tell myself all will be okay. Thank you in advance!
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04-06-2021, 01:29 PM
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#333
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,010
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteCain
Hello folks!
Well, got some shitty news today. I took my truck in to replace lower ball joints and diagnose a P0300 code. Just got a call from the shop, sounds like there's an issue with my cylinder heads. I wrote down everything he shared with me so you can get the whole picture.
-Temp gauge went to the red when he pulled the truck in (Never done that before)
-Heat wasn't blowing in the cab
-Radiator was super hot and low on coolant (hasn't found any coolant leaks yet)
-Did a block test and it came back positive. Oil or exhaust somewhere in the system
His diagnosis is that we'll need to teardown the engine and send the cylinder heads off to a machine shop and then rebuild the engine. He said roughly 4-6 weeks for the job and a rough estimate of $2000. If you've seen my posts before, you know that this is my first car I've ever purchased and I'm really a beginner.
Can anyone provide some insight on this? Trying to figure out what the best course of action is and also trying to tell myself all will be okay. Thank you in advance!
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Theré is a possibility that engine head is cracked or it could also be just a bad head gasket. $2000 all in is not too bad. Cheapest option would be swapping out the motor with used one from a salvage yard or someone parting out a wrecked 4runner on Craigslist , facebook market place etc, cost would be motor around $500 and labor around $500 to drop it in. Jpm import out of a Toyota van from Japan another option but are getting a little expensive. Your mechanic should be able to tell you after tear down if the heads are warpped, cracked or it is a blown head gasket. Labor cost is what makes the bill expensive. Good luck.
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04-06-2021, 05:20 PM
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#334
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 111
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteCain
Hello folks!
Well, got some shitty news today. I took my truck in to replace lower ball joints and diagnose a P0300 code. Just got a call from the shop, sounds like there's an issue with my cylinder heads. I wrote down everything he shared with me so you can get the whole picture.
-Temp gauge went to the red when he pulled the truck in (Never done that before)
-Heat wasn't blowing in the cab
-Radiator was super hot and low on coolant (hasn't found any coolant leaks yet)
-Did a block test and it came back positive. Oil or exhaust somewhere in the system
His diagnosis is that we'll need to teardown the engine and send the cylinder heads off to a machine shop and then rebuild the engine. He said roughly 4-6 weeks for the job and a rough estimate of $2000. If you've seen my posts before, you know that this is my first car I've ever purchased and I'm really a beginner.
Can anyone provide some insight on this? Trying to figure out what the best course of action is and also trying to tell myself all will be okay. Thank you in advance!
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Is it a mechanic that you trust? P0300 marks a misfire which could be caused by many many small things. If you haven't had any drivability issues and never experienced the symptoms he is describing, it's hard not to be skeptical... Just seems weird that you could drive it to the shop with the temp gauge in spec but it would spike when he pulled it in?
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04-06-2021, 07:08 PM
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#335
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreenwood75
Is it a mechanic that you trust? P0300 marks a misfire which could be caused by many many small things. If you haven't had any drivability issues and never experienced the symptoms he is describing, it's hard not to be skeptical... Just seems weird that you could drive it to the shop with the temp gauge in spec but it would spike when he pulled it in?
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I did think about that. However after a little research through the forums, I've been experiencing the other telltale signs. Rough idle on startup, white smoke for ~ 1 minute after starting, and misfire code. Is there anything else that those could be?
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04-07-2021, 12:07 AM
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#336
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 231
Real Name: Leif
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 231
Real Name: Leif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteCain
I did think about that. However after a little research through the forums, I've been experiencing the other telltale signs. Rough idle on startup, white smoke for ~ 1 minute after starting, and misfire code. Is there anything else that those could be?
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hey man. sorry to hear of your troubles. white smoke often is a HG issue. i was having that with a 3.slo in my truck, and that precipitated a swap to a 5vz-fe eight years ago this summer. we had a look after extracting the old engine, and we had caught it in time, but it was indeed a blown head gasket. we were able to get some salvage $$ for it.
we later replaced that used 5vz-fe for a reman when the first swapper threw a rod. the dead old one came out and the new short block went in, in ten hours. it was a long day but two of us made it happen.
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'99 'Highlander' 4R SR5 5VZ-FE | 5-spd | LED lighting | TBU | 265-75R17 Duratrac stuffed after some pinch-weld convincing
'95 Xtra cab 5VZ-FE swap 5-spd | 33x10.50-15 BFG AT/KOs | 4" Superlift | ARB rear locker | OME torsion bars | Total Chaos idler arm & uniball | Smittybilt bumpers | Sportsman topper | Aisin manual hubs | K&N | Dual Optimas | Extended diff breathers | Bilstein 5100s | De-striped | Hella pencil-beams
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04-07-2021, 09:53 AM
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#337
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
I was thinking of doing an elocker on a budget. You should be able to use just the 4.11 3rd member off a Tacoma right? Tim mentioned taking the whole rear axle but I don't see why not just take the diff
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You'll need to either modify your current housing, find a 4Runner elocker rear axle housing, or remove the spring perches and add all the 4Runner brackets to the Tacoma axle housing
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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04-08-2021, 01:21 PM
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#338
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
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RIP Head Gasket
Just as I suspected, I've got a blown head gasket. Good news is that the bottom is still in good shape.
My mechanic just called and gave all the work that needs to be done:
-Send the heads off to machine shop to get them planed and flattened
-Fix leaking valves
-Replace head bolts
-Replace knock sensor wire
-PCV valve
-Coolant
- He suggested cleaning the fuel injectors (extra $180)
All in, he quoted me $3080.12.
Do the fuel injectors really need to be done? Like what is the benefit of doing those? If possible, I'd rather spend the money on my LBJs but I don't want to overlook the fuel injectors if that's vital.
Thanks for any advice you guys can provide!
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04-08-2021, 02:10 PM
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#339
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 431
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteCain
Just as I suspected, I've got a blown head gasket. Good news is that the bottom is still in good shape.
My mechanic just called and gave all the work that needs to be done:
-Send the heads off to machine shop to get them planed and flattened
-Fix leaking valves
-Replace head bolts
-Replace knock sensor wire
-PCV valve
-Coolant
- He suggested cleaning the fuel injectors (extra $180)
All in, he quoted me $3080.12.
Do the fuel injectors really need to be done? Like what is the benefit of doing those? If possible, I'd rather spend the money on my LBJs but I don't want to overlook the fuel injectors if that's vital.
Thanks for any advice you guys can provide!
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Consider just getting an entirely new Longblock from Yota1 performance
5VZ 3.4L Rebuilt Toyota Engine (Complete) - Yota1 Performance, Inc.
You're just $1000 away from this with your current $3080 quote, and you get a whole new engine, not only new heads.
This is only my opinion-- might as well go all in while the engine is out-- doing this would be a lot easier than removing your heads, shipping them off, etc.
It would be a matter of ordering this engine, taking your accessories off and putting them on this, and dropping it in.
If you can scrape up the extra $1k, this is 100% what i'd suggest
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2000 SR5 4x4 | Geared, Locked and Fully restored OEM+ build.
Forged and Cammed 1UZ Single Turbo, Standalone ECU + Built R150 in process. Why, you ask? Because it makes no sense in this platform, and I love it!
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04-08-2021, 02:18 PM
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#340
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,145
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeakSauz
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You're just $1000 away from this with your current $3080 quote, and you get a whole new engine, not only new heads.
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That $3080 quote shocked me!
So, Yes I concur, if you're willing to drop +$3K for only the top, just keep going.
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
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04-08-2021, 04:05 PM
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#341
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteCain
Just as I suspected, I've got a blown head gasket. Good news is that the bottom is still in good shape.
My mechanic just called and gave all the work that needs to be done:
-Send the heads off to machine shop to get them planed and flattened
-Fix leaking valves
-Replace head bolts
-Replace knock sensor wire
-PCV valve
-Coolant
- He suggested cleaning the fuel injectors (extra $180)
All in, he quoted me $3080.12.
Do the fuel injectors really need to be done? Like what is the benefit of doing those? If possible, I'd rather spend the money on my LBJs but I don't want to overlook the fuel injectors if that's vital.
Thanks for any advice you guys can provide!
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Personally I would skip the injector cleaning. If they become a problem later they are pretty easy to access and replace.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeakSauz
Consider just getting an entirely new Longblock from Yota1 performance
5VZ 3.4L Rebuilt Toyota Engine (Complete) - Yota1 Performance, Inc.
You're just $1000 away from this with your current $3080 quote, and you get a whole new engine, not only new heads.
This is only my opinion-- might as well go all in while the engine is out-- doing this would be a lot easier than removing your heads, shipping them off, etc.
It would be a matter of ordering this engine, taking your accessories off and putting them on this, and dropping it in.
If you can scrape up the extra $1k, this is 100% what i'd suggest
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The original $3000 quote he had probably includes labor and the engine is probably still in the truck with the heads off. The labor to pull that engine and replace with a new one will add pretty considerably to the extra $1000 for a new engine. Just something for PeteCain to consider.
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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04-08-2021, 06:12 PM
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#342
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 231
Real Name: Leif
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 231
Real Name: Leif
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i got my dressed reman 5vz-fe long block for my truck from yotashop. appears you can still get either a short block or a long block from them. so far (~30 months) it runs properly and has had no issues. but that price will probably make you
Code:
https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-engine-toyota-v6-3-4l-5vz-fe-engine-dressed-long-block-4runner-t100-tacoma-tundra-1995-2004-5vz-dlb-9504/
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'99 'Highlander' 4R SR5 5VZ-FE | 5-spd | LED lighting | TBU | 265-75R17 Duratrac stuffed after some pinch-weld convincing
'95 Xtra cab 5VZ-FE swap 5-spd | 33x10.50-15 BFG AT/KOs | 4" Superlift | ARB rear locker | OME torsion bars | Total Chaos idler arm & uniball | Smittybilt bumpers | Sportsman topper | Aisin manual hubs | K&N | Dual Optimas | Extended diff breathers | Bilstein 5100s | De-striped | Hella pencil-beams
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04-08-2021, 07:18 PM
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#343
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,672
Real Name: Blair
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoleif
i got my dressed reman 5vz-fe long block for my truck from yotashop.
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4 7 0 0
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04-08-2021, 09:26 PM
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#344
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 231
Real Name: Leif
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 231
Real Name: Leif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endlessblockades
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yah, i know. i liked the short block price but didn't want them coming back to me (after a hypothetical failure) saying i didn't do this, didn't install the TB right, let us talk to your installer, blah blah woof woof. also didn't know the extent of the thrown rod damage, and upon tearing into it, turned out that the thing really did get trashed.
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'99 'Highlander' 4R SR5 5VZ-FE | 5-spd | LED lighting | TBU | 265-75R17 Duratrac stuffed after some pinch-weld convincing
'95 Xtra cab 5VZ-FE swap 5-spd | 33x10.50-15 BFG AT/KOs | 4" Superlift | ARB rear locker | OME torsion bars | Total Chaos idler arm & uniball | Smittybilt bumpers | Sportsman topper | Aisin manual hubs | K&N | Dual Optimas | Extended diff breathers | Bilstein 5100s | De-striped | Hella pencil-beams
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04-08-2021, 09:51 PM
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#345
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,672
Real Name: Blair
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,672
Real Name: Blair
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoleif
yah, i know. i liked the short block price but didn't want them coming back to me (after a hypothetical failure) saying i didn't do this, didn't install the TB right, let us talk to your installer, blah blah woof woof. also didn't know the extent of the thrown rod damage, and upon tearing into it, turned out that the thing really did get trashed.
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Oh for sure, I wasn't really tripping on the price - just goofing around. If you had the money on hand, I'm all for it. Money comes and goes but a good Toyota motor is forever (almost).
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