09-17-2021, 10:56 PM
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#586
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: badlands
Posts: 30
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: badlands
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
The rear bump stops are located on the rear frame as seen in this picture: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1286499-post1.html The cone bumper in the spring is a softer rubber than the frame bumpstop and meant to act as a cushion to slow the axle down some before contacting the stiffer/harder frame bumpstop. The cone bumper in the spring isn't entirely necessary and can be removed or trimmed as needed, but should not cause a problem if the spacer is placed between the spring and the cone.
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Hmmm, that is interesting. The external bump stop you show should work then. The spacers are installed by pulling the cone out of the spring, inserting the cone into the spacers, then inserting the remaining cone into the spring. This adds a couple inches to the length of the spring, lifting the rear.
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5th4runner doesn't mean 5th gen.
Last edited by 5th4runner; 09-17-2021 at 11:08 PM.
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09-18-2021, 02:03 AM
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#587
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: US
Posts: 3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: US
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endlessblockades
I'm no expert but roughly calculated, the bigger size is about +1.5" in diameter and about .5" narrower, so you could visually add about .75" to the current tire where it comes closest to the fender/well while cycling lock-to-lock to get an idea of fit. Shouldn't have any UCA/spring clearance issues as you said. I'm not sure how to pre-calculate rubbing under suspension compression, however, but you say you don't expect to flex much. Not sure how you be able to resist hitting some trails though.......
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Easily!! Closest legal/public land trails are 3hrs from home
Thanks for the reply!
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09-18-2021, 10:15 PM
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#588
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1
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3rd gen exhaust issue
Alright. This is my first post on here so be easy on me. I have a 3rd gen 99 4runner 2.7 liter. My tailpipe has now been “removed” from the main exhaust system for the 4th time now after owning it for 7 years. It’s been welded and rewelded on, and I think it’s time for a new base exhaust system. Has anyone had to do this? Did you DIY? Brought it into a muffler place? Avg cost? Trying to figure out what the avg cost could be (I am not a rich person) and how long I can go with the tailpipe secured w/ wire onto the frame 😅 (I know there are issues w idling/CO issues!) TIA!
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09-19-2021, 01:50 AM
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#589
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,686
Real Name: Blair
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,686
Real Name: Blair
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehnat36
Alright. This is my first post on here so be easy on me. I have a 3rd gen 99 4runner 2.7 liter. My tailpipe has now been “removed” from the main exhaust system for the 4th time now after owning it for 7 years. It’s been welded and rewelded on, and I think it’s time for a new base exhaust system. Has anyone had to do this? Did you DIY? Brought it into a muffler place? Avg cost? Trying to figure out what the avg cost could be (I am not a rich person) and how long I can go with the tailpipe secured w/ wire onto the frame 😅 (I know there are issues w idling/CO issues!) TIA!
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A good resource is the Search function. Scroll down the results a bit and you'll find lots of threads on the forum about cost-effective exhaust. Sounds like you should probably replace everything behind your Cat if it's original.
For example:
Best cost option for new cat-back exhaust system?
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260K - Y2K/E - Clock still works
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09-20-2021, 09:09 AM
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#590
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: dunwoody
Posts: 27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: dunwoody
Posts: 27
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I am looking to lift my third-gen 4runner 3in. Does anyone know an estimate of the cost of labor for this typically?
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09-20-2021, 10:26 AM
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#591
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,011
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmb45678
I am looking to lift my third-gen 4runner 3in. Does anyone know an estimate of the cost of labor for this typically?
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About $800 around here. More if you get the uca and diff drop.
Or $0.00 dollars if you do it your self.
ToyTec Boss Complete Suspension Lift Installation - YouTube
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09-21-2021, 08:29 PM
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#592
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NOVA
Posts: 1,457
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NOVA
Posts: 1,457
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Alright, after extensive reading through threads I’ve come to a certain idea for a conclusion but would also like to get other input.
My 01 with 305K on the clock exhibits this sort of “jumping” or “skipping” when around 50 mph, going up hill or just after driving for an extended period of time, like road trips especially. The info I’ve gathered is that it’s either related to plugs or coil packs. I replaced my plugs less than 30K ago, and I’ve got Denso plugs with Denso wires in there, so I’d like to think that isn’t my issue. But I’m curious about my coil packs. Still on the original Toyota/Denso ones. $150 for 3 new ones, not horrible but I’d rather not spend that if it isn’t needed. Any ideas?
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09-21-2021, 09:14 PM
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#593
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,198
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,198
Real Name: Devan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
Alright, after extensive reading through threads I’ve come to a certain idea for a conclusion but would also like to get other input.
My 01 with 305K on the clock exhibits this sort of “jumping” or “skipping” when around 50 mph, going up hill or just after driving for an extended period of time, like road trips especially. The info I’ve gathered is that it’s either related to plugs or coil packs. I replaced my plugs less than 30K ago, and I’ve got Denso plugs with Denso wires in there, so I’d like to think that isn’t my issue. But I’m curious about my coil packs. Still on the original Toyota/Denso ones. $150 for 3 new ones, not horrible but I’d rather not spend that if it isn’t needed. Any ideas?
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You know those are supposed to be replaced with spark plugs, right? You're well overdue
__________________
Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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09-21-2021, 10:36 PM
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#594
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: miami
Posts: 36
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: miami
Posts: 36
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2002 4R limited.
whats the low down with lower ball joints ?
Are you supposed to change them asap like a recall or after a certain number of miles ? is rockauto the place to go for this ?
also anyone know what kind of computer you need to read the engine light codes ?
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09-21-2021, 11:12 PM
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#595
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,011
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
Alright, after extensive reading through threads I’ve come to a certain idea for a conclusion but would also like to get other input.
My 01 with 305K on the clock exhibits this sort of “jumping” or “skipping” when around 50 mph, going up hill or just after driving for an extended period of time, like road trips especially. The info I’ve gathered is that it’s either related to plugs or coil packs. I replaced my plugs less than 30K ago, and I’ve got Denso plugs with Denso wires in there, so I’d like to think that isn’t my issue. But I’m curious about my coil packs. Still on the original Toyota/Denso ones. $150 for 3 new ones, not horrible but I’d rather not spend that if it isn’t needed. Any ideas?
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Take the plugs out and check their condition. Are tips worn covered in carbon etc. the gaps are good. Check the coil boots they might be worn causing a short at the block check the coil pack resistance Resistance
primary cold 0.67 - 1.05 Ω
Hot 0.85 - 1.23 Ω
seccndary cold.9.3 -16.0 kΩ
Hot 11.7 - 18.8 kΩ
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09-21-2021, 11:36 PM
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#596
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,011
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpelletier
2002 4R limited.
whats the low down with lower ball joints ?
Are you supposed to change them asap like a recall or after a certain number of miles ? is rockauto the place to go for this ?
also anyone know what kind of computer you need to read the engine light codes ?
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LBJ replacement every 100k or so miles or so, sooner if you off road. I've gone longer but I check for play every so often.
Oem from a dealer. lot of fake oems out there on ebay etc. There are dealers online that you can get two for around $200 but they don't come with a new Castle nut or cotter pin. If you buy them individually they come with castle nut and cotter pin but are little more money. Also order the right bolts for your year.
If you don't have the rubber dust cover, 8 flange head bolts torque 59ft lbs
If you do have the dust covers, 8 bolts with washers torque 37ft lbs.
Buy any decent Obd-II scanner then download Torque app on your phone or tablet and connect it via blue tooth.
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09-22-2021, 12:37 AM
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#597
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,198
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,198
Real Name: Devan
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Would upgraded injectors help with leaning out at higher rpms, or is the only solutions adding a 7th?
__________________
Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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09-22-2021, 08:16 AM
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#598
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: badlands
Posts: 30
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: badlands
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
The rear bump stops are located on the rear frame as seen in this picture: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1286499-post1.html The cone bumper in the spring is a softer rubber than the frame bumpstop and meant to act as a cushion to slow the axle down some before contacting the stiffer/harder frame bumpstop. The cone bumper in the spring isn't entirely necessary and can be removed or trimmed as needed, but should not cause a problem if the spacer is placed between the spring and the cone.
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Thanks everybody for the help. Results are in:
Used this spacer:
kt09107bk | Rear Leveling Kit -1-1/2 in | 4Runner 96-02| Daystar $42/set new.
Using these instructions:
https://www.daystarsuspensionparts.c...tar/p10503.pdf
Added the step of unbolting the parking brake cable bracket.
Forgot to unbolt the pan-hard bar on the driver's side. That made life difficult.
In addition to the floor jack it took the stock screw jack and a (small) bottle jack to adjust the axle up and or down on each side to jockey the springs.
The jack stand on the fuel tank side was a bit iffy (no room to straddle the frame, had to turn 90 deg.) so left the floor jack on the hitch beam at all times. It took a 4X6 on edge on the floor jack to lift the wheels off the ground from back there.
Took less than 3 hours including finding all the tools. What really helped was squirting penetrant into all threads a few days before, then loosening the bolts the day before without jacking up the vehicle. Took an impact wrench as things are rusty.
Everything went back in with a lot of waterproof moly grease.
Gave a bit less than the advertised 1.5" lift, didn't measure exactly.
__________________
and no
5th4runner doesn't mean 5th gen.
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09-22-2021, 09:11 AM
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#599
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: miami
Posts: 36
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: miami
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
LBJ replacement every 100k or so miles or so, sooner if you off road. I've gone longer but I check for play every so often.
Oem from a dealer. lot of fake oems out there on ebay etc. There are dealers online that you can get two for around $200 but they don't come with a new Castle nut or cotter pin. If you buy them individually they come with castle nut and cotter pin but are little more money. Also order the right bolts for your year.
If you don't have the rubber dust cover, 8 flange head bolts torque 59ft lbs
If you do have the dust covers, 8 bolts with washers torque 37ft lbs.
Buy any decent Obd-II scanner then download Torque app on your phone or tablet and connect it via blue tooth.
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Thanks !
Also are LBJ only in the front or also in the rear ?
Are the front ones the only ones of concern ?
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09-22-2021, 10:56 AM
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#600
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official vendor
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
Posts: 699
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official vendor
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
Posts: 699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpelletier
Thanks !
Also are LBJ only in the front or also in the rear ?
Are the front ones the only ones of concern ?
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Just the front .
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