10-06-2021, 12:06 PM
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#616
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: KC
Posts: 823
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Location: KC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmb45678
any good recommendations for a 2inch
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Start here: 3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
EDIT:
@ Endlessblockades
beat me to it, and gave more info. Though, still consider checking out that link above as a good starting place for your research.
There are many threads on mild lifts. A popular combo seems to be Bilstein 5100 shocks all around, with Old Man Emu (often written as "OME") 880 or 881 springs in front and OME 906 springs in the back. (I went with Bilstein 5100s and OME 880/906. See build thread in my signature.)
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2000 SR-5 V6 4x4 Auto
"Ol' Ruby" - build thread
@Y2K_4X4
Last edited by cl4Rk; 10-06-2021 at 12:12 PM.
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10-06-2021, 01:22 PM
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#617
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,010
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmb45678
any good recommendations for a 2inch
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Cheapest way to go would be to buy a set of 5100 bilsteins all around 400. Use your existing front springs and adjust the perch height to 2inch. and buy 5th gen 4runner take off rear coils from CL or FB.or' for another 400 you can get ome 880, 881 for thé front and ome 906 for the rear
Look at eibach, toytec, 4wheelparts etc
In post #615
@ Endlessblockades
recommendation is a good one.
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10-06-2021, 01:35 PM
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#618
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Earth
Posts: 862
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Earth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmb45678
any good recommendations for a 2inch
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Love my Bilstien 6112/5160 combo, add in OME 906 springs for the rear lift. Not the cheapest, not the best, just a very solid upper middle solution. You could Probably get right about 3" from where you are now on a stock 2001 with these 6112's up front (and then it's just springs and/or spacers out back to match).
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'99 Limited 4x4, Millenium Silver ~ Maintenance Thread
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10-07-2021, 09:25 AM
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#619
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2
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I love McGeorge
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10-07-2021, 12:21 PM
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#620
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
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Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElJefe4130
I love McGeorge
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I love lamp...
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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10-07-2021, 02:11 PM
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#621
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
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Real Name: Devan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElJefe4130
I love McGeorge
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Used to use the shit out of them but unfortunately they no longer to ship to WA and RI :/ Something to do with "change in tax laws" but they couldn't/wouldn't tell me more beyond that
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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10-11-2021, 10:39 PM
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#622
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Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Santa Cruz
Posts: 118
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It seems that the majority of parts that break in the suspension are in the front. Is this inherent to IFS or just that "the front of the car will hit it first"?
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10-11-2021, 11:15 PM
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#623
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chapolito
It seems that the majority of parts that break in the suspension are in the front. Is this inherent to IFS or just that "the front of the car will hit it first"?
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I'd argue it's both those things, really, but definitely more the former than latter. I wouldn't doubt abuse plays a role in it but I would struggle to say it's a bigger role than the inherent "complexity" of the front suspension - there's very little to go wrong in the rear, really. "More parts means more to break" or however it goes
Though it should be mentioned solid axle vehicles definitely have their own failures too - Jeeps are a perfect example of this And I'm sure someone with a SAS would be quick to correct me how their front end is anything but simple
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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10-12-2021, 10:47 AM
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#624
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
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Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chapolito
It seems that the majority of parts that break in the suspension are in the front. Is this inherent to IFS or just that "the front of the car will hit it first"?
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The front of any vehicle will always have more stress than the rear. The rear of the vehicle only has to maintain a straight direction and move up/down as the suspension cycles, but the front suspension has to steer the vehicle as well as move up/down. That means the front suspension will inherently have more components. Add to it that the front end of most vehicles also has more weight.
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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10-12-2021, 06:52 PM
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#625
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3
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Hey guys,
I've been lurking for awhile now, so hello!
I've just gotten myself a 2002 SR5 with 150k miles and she's throwing a P0441 code on me. So I started my chase with the fuel cap, which looks to be the issue. I can smell gas at the rear after a drive and the cap doesn't look to fit properly. I don't think it's sealing 100%. OEM cap was $8 so I'm going to replace it and see what happens.
While I was poking around I noticed that I seem to be missing some sort of cover or shield for the fuel line itself, in the wheel well. Does anyone have an idea of what this part is called? I've been searching for a fuel line cover, wheel well cover, fuel line shield, but no luck so far. Thanks in advance
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10-12-2021, 08:35 PM
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#626
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,197
Real Name: Devan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
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Real Name: Devan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howother
Hey guys,
I've been lurking for awhile now, so hello!
I've just gotten myself a 2002 SR5 with 150k miles and she's throwing a P0441 code on me. So I started my chase with the fuel cap, which looks to be the issue. I can smell gas at the rear after a drive and the cap doesn't look to fit properly. I don't think it's sealing 100%. OEM cap was $8 so I'm going to replace it and see what happens.
While I was poking around I noticed that I seem to be missing some sort of cover or shield for the fuel line itself, in the wheel well. Does anyone have an idea of what this part is called? I've been searching for a fuel line cover, wheel well cover, fuel line shield, but no luck so far. Thanks in advance
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How strongly of a smell? If you can smell gas at all it's typically a very bad and dangerous idea to drive it, but if it's faint and you can't find an immediate leak then I would think you're on the right track especially if the code is for an evap leak and the smell is only after a drive - smelling it beforehand would be a huge red flag. It could be the purge valve itself too not allowing the vapors to reach the charcoal canister, causing them to build up and leak out the cap - if the cap doesn't fix it I would look into this next, actually
Here's a filler neck cover for sale, I had to snag one too initially. Before you put it on you could take the time to extend your rear diff breather up here, would be convenient timing
__________________
Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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10-13-2021, 01:05 AM
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#627
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3
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Junior Member
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Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
How strongly of a smell? If you can smell gas at all it's typically a very bad and dangerous idea to drive it, but if it's faint and you can't find an immediate leak then I would think you're on the right track especially if the code is for an evap leak and the smell is only after a drive - smelling it beforehand would be a huge red flag. It could be the purge valve itself too not allowing the vapors to reach the charcoal canister, causing them to build up and leak out the cap - if the cap doesn't fix it I would look into this next, actually
Here's a filler neck cover for sale, I had to snag one too initially. Before you put it on you could take the time to extend your rear diff breather up here, would be convenient timing
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Hey thanks for this!
It's a faint smell. My girlfriend wasn't able to smell anything, and I only caught a few whiffs before it went away. I've never smelled anything while driving, just after parking. Fingers crossed I got lucky with this one.
Awesome. I'll snag me a shield, appreciate the link!
And solid advice on the breather, I found a video from Timmy on the DIY thread for that very thing. I'll look into that.
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10-21-2021, 07:05 PM
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#628
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howother
Hey thanks for this!
It's a faint smell. My girlfriend wasn't able to smell anything, and I only caught a few whiffs before it went away. I've never smelled anything while driving, just after parking. Fingers crossed I got lucky with this one.
Awesome. I'll snag me a shield, appreciate the link!
And solid advice on the breather, I found a video from Timmy on the DIY thread for that very thing. I'll look into that.
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Well darn. I cleared my CIL after replacing the gas cap, and it stayed away for the last week but it's back now. From what I've been reading, next step is usually the purge solenoid. I went looking for it under the hood and I can't seem to find it at all. I did find some cracked hoses and a disconnected intake hose. I replaced those, but code is still present after clearing.
Anyone know where this solenoid should be? I tried following my hoses from the intake but I can't find a match to the part I found online.
Purge Solenoid #77740-35482
I also checked near the charcoal canister by the spare in the rear, and I couldn't see it. Unless it's on top of the canister or something.
Really scratching my head now.
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10-21-2021, 08:59 PM
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#629
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,010
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 3,010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howother
Well darn. I cleared my CIL after replacing the gas cap, and it stayed away for the last week but it's back now. From what I've been reading, next step is usually the purge solenoid. I went looking for it under the hood and I can't seem to find it at all. I did find some cracked hoses and a disconnected intake hose. I replaced those, but code is still present after clearing.
Anyone know where this solenoid should be? I tried following my hoses from the intake but I can't find a match to the part I found online.
Purge Solenoid #77740-35482
I also checked near the charcoal canister by the spare in the rear, and I couldn't see it. Unless it's on top of the canister or something.
Really scratching my head now.
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There are pics in the following thread
P0440 Fixed!
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10-25-2021, 02:13 PM
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#630
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
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Location: Louisiana
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I'm new user so I can't start a new thread. What is this part? When I walked up to my 4runner this morning, it was hanging down about to fall off. I tightened it back up by hand. How tight should it be? Is part of it already missing?
Thanks in advance.
Edit: I messed with it a bit and it fell off. Now I think the mechanic left it there when I had the u-joints on my drive shaft changed out in August. I'm still wondering what it is and where it goes.
Edit 2: Mystery solved. Its part of the jack / lift they used when I got new tires.
Last edited by Banzif; 10-26-2021 at 10:21 AM.
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