[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by Garandman

Which model Bilstein shocks for stock height 2001?

Front shocks (either option will work): Bilstein 5100 Height Adjustable Front Shock Set for 96-02 4Runner
Rear shocks: 5100 Rear Shock Set for 1996-2002 4Runner (0"-2" Lift)

[jcmb45678]

I have a dent in my front right chrome bumper on my 01.I tried to hammer it out in various ways but it would not budge. Any ideas on how to fix this?

[JoeT4R]

Alright, I’ve been running my SS 1.2 (classic system) for almost 95K miles, an have 5100’s in the front & rear. Getting curious about the Tokico’s p/n 48531-69417. Is now a good time to swap them out? Not wheeling my rig anymore these days, mainly daily driving and have the family in it more often. Lots of long distance driving as well. Is it worth the time/investment/effort? Will I notice any difference In overall ride quality? Opinions, please, especially those with the SS 1.2! Thanks in advance

[Gpowell101]

Just bought a 99 4Runner and all the lights worked perfectly. I pulled out and returned a couple fuses to check for a burned one due to the radio not working. Couple days later my left turn signal activates solid when the brake is pressed and the lights blink when the left blinker is activated. They are tied together in a sense. Any ideas?

[Brian.]

Originally Posted by Gpowell101

Just bought a 99 4Runner and all the lights worked perfectly. I pulled out and returned a couple fuses to check for a burned one due to the radio not working. Couple days later my left turn signal activates solid when the brake is pressed and the lights blink when the left blinker is activated. They are tied together in a sense. Any ideas?

First thought is the wiring bundle that goes into the hatch is a known weak spot. Check there for broken/damaged wires.

[Devbot]

Probably a dumb question but is it alright to go through an automated car wash with a tire carrier in the back? Really need a wash but it's 40 degrees and raining for the next month or three

[Dezert4Runner]

Originally Posted by Devbot

Probably a dumb question but is it alright to go through an automated car wash with a tire carrier in the back? Really need a wash but it's 40 degrees and raining for the next month or three

I do almost weekly and have a swing out bumper with spare tire and full length rack. The automated washes haven’t done any damage but I guess there’s always a small risk something on the machinery will get hung up on a vehicle’s aftermarket parts and tweak something. I wouldn’t worry about it.

[Devbot]

Originally Posted by Dezert4Runner

I do almost weekly and have a swing out bumper with spare tire and full length rack. The automated washes haven’t done any damage but I guess there’s always a small risk something on the machinery will get hung up on a vehicle’s aftermarket parts and tweak something. I wouldn’t worry about it.

Thanks, I couldn't find anything about saying otherwise so I assumed this was the case

[Snory]

Long time lurker second time commenting. Well first off a huge thank you to all of the great contributors to this site for the amazing amount of detailed and informative content that was been a lifesaver, for both myself and my wallet over the last few years. I’m so glad this site is around!

Alright onto business. So I had a bad bearing in the drivers rear a few weeks back, and after weighing my options I realized it was much more cost friendly to my student budget to not replace the bearing and instead to just buy a used left axle shaft with all the bits still on and just do a quick direct swap. Unfortunately I had zero time to do this myself so I had to take it to the shop to get it installed, which reportedly was quick and a painless. Well it has been about a month since with no prior problems, but when I was lubing the driveshaft and having a poke around the other day I noticed that my left tire has 12–6 o’clock play similar to what a bad bearing would exhibit, however there is no current signs of a bad bearing and I gave the part a very close inspection when I bought it and it seemed mint to me.

My question then is; if it is indeed not a bad bearing again what could this vertical north—south play in the wheel be caused by? TIA!

[Tin Ark]

2000 Limited thoughts on value ? Found a one owner Limited with 99,000 on the clock, allegedly unmolested and no accidents. From photos, very good condition. Leather drivers seat normal cracks and normal nicks in front end from driving much like any car will get. White in color not that it makes a world of difference. Used car prices in general are ridiculous and I am not in a rush but if something comes up at a good price, I'd buy. Southern car, no rust.

What do you feel is a realistic price ?

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Snory

Long time lurker second time commenting. Well first off a huge thank you to all of the great contributors to this site for the amazing amount of detailed and informative content that was been a lifesaver, for both myself and my wallet over the last few years. I’m so glad this site is around!

Alright onto business. So I had a bad bearing in the drivers rear a few weeks back, and after weighing my options I realized it was much more cost friendly to my student budget to not replace the bearing and instead to just buy a used left axle shaft with all the bits still on and just do a quick direct swap. Unfortunately I had zero time to do this myself so I had to take it to the shop to get it installed, which reportedly was quick and a painless. Well it has been about a month since with no prior problems, but when I was lubing the driveshaft and having a poke around the other day I noticed that my left tire has 12–6 o’clock play similar to what a bad bearing would exhibit, however there is no current signs of a bad bearing and I gave the part a very close inspection when I bought it and it seemed mint to me.

My question then is; if it is indeed not a bad bearing again what could this vertical north—south play in the wheel be caused by? TIA!

Take the tire off and check the wheel studs and lugs, the hub assembly, also the surface on the inside of the wheel. It'could be the its'not sitting right on the hub ring.

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Tin Ark

2000 Limited thoughts on value ? Found a one owner Limited with 99,000 on the clock, allegedly unmolested and no accidents. From photos, very good condition. Leather drivers seat normal cracks and normal nicks in front end from driving much like any car will get. White in color not that it makes a world of difference. Used car prices in general are ridiculous and I am not in a rush but if something comes up at a good price, I'd buy. Southern car, no rust.

What do you feel is a realistic price ?

Depending on your market. I would guess 10k plus.

[Brian.]

Originally Posted by Tin Ark

2000 Limited thoughts on value ? Found a one owner Limited with 99,000 on the clock, allegedly unmolested and no accidents. From photos, very good condition. Leather drivers seat normal cracks and normal nicks in front end from driving much like any car will get. White in color not that it makes a world of difference. Used car prices in general are ridiculous and I am not in a rush but if something comes up at a good price, I'd buy. Southern car, no rust.

What do you feel is a realistic price ?

I bought mine before the wu-flu insanity, a bit less than double the miles but otherwise the same for $6500. Not sure why people think less miles is better (to a point), just means it wasn't driven as much so there's more potential for plastic/rubber part failure. I've seen low mile motorcycles with engine gaskets that leaked because they dry-rotted... talking 40 year old engines with a thousand or two miles. But if the seller is one of those who thinks low miles always means more money, it'll be listed too high for an economical daily driver (you're still going to have to replace all the parts as a 200, 300 or 400k vehicle, actually probably more as the higher mileage units will likely have had some replacements).

Todays market, a "needs everything maintenance/consumable" is probably a good deal at $7k, gives you the ~$3k needed to buy the parts and do the work yourself, landing at a $10k vehicle that *MIGHT* sell for $10k. If you're willing to eat some money on the deal, decide how much and rise the initial price from there. A 4r with 100k miles has a little more room for that BaT magic, but those are the oddball exceptions and I wouldn't bet my next months mortgage on it.

[fatherohenry]

I can't find a number or any specs for the bolt that attaches the fuel return line bracket to the plenum. I'm guessing it's the same as the ground strap bolt but I can't find that either. I've previously tried an 8x1.25 so I know it's not that. It's currently raining too hard to go outside and check the ground strap bolt for markings.

Can anyone enlighten me?

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by fatherohenry

I can't find a number or any specs for the bolt that attaches the fuel return line bracket to the plenum. I'm guessing it's the same as the ground strap bolt but I can't find that either. I've previously tried an 8x1.25 so I know it's not that. It's currently raining too hard to go outside and check the ground strap bolt for markings.

Can anyone enlighten me?

It's one of these part numbers

91611-60614
91611-60616 superseded by 91611-B0616
or 91651-40610