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Old 01-28-2023, 07:54 AM #1966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatherohenry View Post
[B]Can I get some thoughts on this squeak?
Can of silicone spray, control arm bushings strut stem bushing is strut stem nut tight enough.
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Old 01-28-2023, 08:00 AM #1967
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Originally Posted by fatherohenry View Post
Can I get some thoughts on this squeak?

This started a month or so ago, after a ton of rain. It only seems to be coming from front right. It also only seems to occur when it's maybe 45° or colder.

I've read other posts that seem to indicate this could simply be bushing noise but I could use someone else's opinion.

I replaced rack, sway bar, and end link bushings with Energy Suspension about a year and a half ago. 9 months ago I replaced upper and lower control arm bushings with OEM rubber and replaced the front end links after dropping a control arm off the press and bending the attached end link. These were cheap Moog end links with their own bushings. All ball joints and tie rods have been replaced within the last 3,500 miles.

OME 881s & Bilstein 5100s fwiw.

Thanks!

This video is me pushing up on the bumper.

I'm going to say this is bushing noise. I just recently replaced my rear shocks and the driver side rear is making a similar noise, but it does it regardless of weather. I can stand on the back of the truck and bounce it and hear it. Not sure why it's making that sound, because everything is tight and everything was installed properly. So I'm curious to hear others' input on this as well.
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Old 01-28-2023, 01:45 PM #1968
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Originally Posted by slothy49 View Post
Hey all, posting again! Ended up purchasing the 2001 Limited I checked out the other day. For 260k it's in great condition. It's got the slightest cyl 3 misfire on a very cold start. Only lasts a couple seconds before it clears up. In the process of hunting that down, and keeping in mind that I may need to do a HG job. Other than that it runs so smoothly.

Anyways! I'm trying to figure out suspension, which I know has been beaten to death. I want to add a winch and coastal bumper in the front. In the rear I'll have a rooftop tent, fridge, probably an aux battery, and my camping gear loaded up. Trying to decide if I should go with heavier duty springs in the front and/or back. Any suggestions? I'm looking in the Bilstein/OME price range.
Can't recommend any good suspension stuff as I'm currently in the process of replacing mine. However, when it comes to bumpers I recommend that you look at True North Fabrications. They have some awesome coastal bumpers. also look at Yota Mafia. If you're looking at making your own bumper, Austin Niemela has some great bumper templates for sale. Then you just have to buy your steel and cut it out according to his specs. Links below👇.

Coastal Offroad 3rd Gen 4Runner Top Front Bumper DIY Kit - YotaMafia

96-02 3rd Gen 4Runner
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1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner Front Winch Bumper Build Templates – AVR Customs
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Old 01-28-2023, 03:04 PM #1969
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Does ANYBODY know what the dimensions are on OEM 1996 4Runner Tocikos front strut assemblies!? Can't find them anywhere.
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Old 01-28-2023, 03:41 PM #1970
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Originally Posted by I❤️4runners View Post
Does ANYBODY know what the dimensions are on OEM 1996 4Runner Tocikos front strut assemblies!? Can't find them anywhere.
48510-39426 Genuine Toyota Shock Absorber Assembly Front Left

Scroll down to Product Specifications.
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Old 01-28-2023, 09:17 PM #1971
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Originally Posted by fatherohenry View Post
Can I get some thoughts on this squeak?
I've been away too long. How soon we forget, eh? I knew I should've just regreased the swaybar bushings before asking questions. All quiet again. Sorry for wasting your time!
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Old 01-29-2023, 04:06 PM #1972
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Is this the radiator out hose that the thermostat is attached to? Trying to figure out if it’s stuck in the on position. When I touch that house after the car is warmed up, it’s cold.

I think the problem with my heat is the thermostat because the in/out heater core hoses both get warm/hot (could probably use a flush but it’s not 100% clogged) and the coolant level in radiator is fine.

So if my thermostat needs replacing, does it make sense to replace radiator while I’m in there? Need a good video reference for changing out thermostat Timmy doesn’t have one.
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Old 01-29-2023, 04:35 PM #1973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shlop View Post
Is this the radiator out hose that the thermostat is attached to? Trying to figure out if it’s stuck in the on position. When I touch that house after the car is warmed up, it’s cold.

I think the problem with my heat is the thermostat because the in/out heater core hoses both get warm/hot (could probably use a flush but it’s not 100% clogged) and the coolant level in radiator is fine.

So if my thermostat needs replacing, does it make sense to replace radiator while I’m in there? Need a good video reference for changing out thermostat Timmy doesn’t have one.
Yes, that's the hose that the thermostat is connected to. It goes into the water pump. If you're replacing the radiator, you might as well replace the thermostat because you have to remove it anyways to get residual coolant out. So it makes sense. Get a new OEM thermostat and gasket if you do from Toyota.
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Old 01-29-2023, 04:53 PM #1974
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You just need a 12mm socket and a 6" extension to remove the thermostat housing bolts. I've done it without draining the radiator, trying to save some coolant in the back country, but it's a mess, so remove the cap and drain it from the petcock. Jiggle valve at 6 O'Clock.
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Old 01-30-2023, 11:43 AM #1975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shlop View Post
Is this the radiator out hose that the thermostat is attached to? Trying to figure out if it’s stuck in the on position. When I touch that house after the car is warmed up, it’s cold.

I think the problem with my heat is the thermostat because the in/out heater core hoses both get warm/hot (could probably use a flush but it’s not 100% clogged) and the coolant level in radiator is fine.

So if my thermostat needs replacing, does it make sense to replace radiator while I’m in there? Need a good video reference for changing out thermostat Timmy doesn’t have one.
It's really not hard to do. I did it recently in mine. It's just three bolts, the hose comes off and the thermostat is right behind it; just need to pop it out and put the new one in. I did drain my radiator. I know you can do it without draining it but it makes a crappy mess. At least if you drain the radiator you can catch the coolant in a clean bucket and and then put it back in when you're done.
Found a video on how to replace the thermostat but it's Chinese! lol. At least it gives you a really good visual on what you need to do. Is your truck overheating?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tP1-OGiMyXQ
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Old 01-30-2023, 11:53 AM #1976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shlop View Post
Is this the radiator out hose that the thermostat is attached to? Trying to figure out if it’s stuck in the on position. When I touch that house after the car is warmed up, it’s cold.

I think the problem with my heat is the thermostat because the in/out heater core hoses both get warm/hot (could probably use a flush but it’s not 100% clogged) and the coolant level in radiator is fine.

So if my thermostat needs replacing, does it make sense to replace radiator while I’m in there? Need a good video reference for changing out thermostat Timmy doesn’t have one.
That hose is attached to the thermostat, but it's the inlet hose for the thermostat. The upper hose shown in the picture is the outlet hose.

If you don't know when the radiator was replaced last I would recommend replacing it and the radiator cap. The transmission cooler in the radiator is known to fail and cause coolant and transmission fluid to mix and that will destroy the transmission unless caught quickly. $200-300 radiator is a lot cheaper than $3000+ transmission.
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Old 01-30-2023, 12:13 PM #1977
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Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
That hose is attached to the thermostat, but it's the inlet hose for the thermostat. The upper hose shown in the picture is the outlet hose.

If you don't know when the radiator was replaced last I would recommend replacing it and the radiator cap. The transmission cooler in the radiator is known to fail and cause coolant and transmission fluid to mix and that will destroy the transmission unless caught quickly. $200-300 radiator is a lot cheaper than $3000+ transmission.
+1. Add an external trans cooler while you're at it, they can be had for less than $100 and keep things nice and cool.
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Old 01-31-2023, 01:32 PM #1978
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When replacing CV axles, is it necessary to use new LBJ bolts after the install?

I just installed new OEM LBJ's last year with new bolts. I can't remember if I used red loctite but if I did i would be pretty sad about having to use a torch so close to a basically brand new rubber boot.
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Old 01-31-2023, 01:47 PM #1979
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When replacing CV axles, is it necessary to use new LBJ bolts after the install?
Pull it apart at the BJ stud not the mounting bolts.
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Old 01-31-2023, 02:00 PM #1980
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Pull it apart at the BJ stud not the mounting bolts.
yeah i thought the same thing, but 2 youtube how-to's in a row pulled the mounting bolts

I'll try the stud first, thanks!
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