[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by DJRodriguez88

I don't have a means to read the temperature but the needle gets up near the H on the dash temp gauge temporarily and it comes down within a few seconds of higher rpm.

I haven't checked the condenser I'm not sure what part that is. I thought the a/c condenser is in a separate system from the coolant. Unless you mean to check if the fins are preventing airflow then I will check it asap. I live on a dirt road and it's been real muddy this year so definitely possible.

I'll double check the coolant and bleed it. Not sure how to check if overflow is working but I suppose I can ask youtube =]

I would highly recommend a scan tool or some other way to read coolant temperature. The engine control module and the dash gauge rear from 2 different locations so it's a quick/easy way to verify that both sensors are functioning correctly.

To check the overflow/radiator cap is functioning properly put a piece of tape on the overflow reservoir where the coolant is when the engine is cold then check it again when the engine is at operating temperature for 20-30 minutes. The level in the overflow should have raised and the radiator hoses should be firm/hard to squeeze (be careful the hoses will be hot).

If you've done any work on the cooling system then you likely have an air pocket in the system. These engines are very difficult to burp. I use a spill free coolant funnel and park on the steepest incline I can find to burp the cooling system.

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by tjcl0201

I need to know, what kind of ATF to use for my '98 3.4L Automatic transmission. I have searched and searched, and cannot find a straight answer. The dipstick says "Dextron II". I cannot find Dextron II in any store...

I checked the level on the dipstick, and I had just got back from going to the store, level was just below 'cool'...which is obviously not good. My 4runner has 251K miles on it, and the fluid on it looks brownish...should I do a complete ATF change? I have never done that, I have never owned any toyotas before this one...

DexIII is backwards compatible as far as I'm aware, so you should be okay to use that. Do your research though to ensure that's 100% accurate and correct.

I have some questions though. How long have you owned the truck for? Have you ever drained and filled your transmission? Do you have any prior records of the transmission being serviced? If so, were they regular drain and fills or were they complete fluid exchanges, like with a machine? This will help you make a better informed decision on how to move forward.

Many will say if your transmission has been neglected that you probably should just leave it alone. You might be able to get ahead while you can with a few simple drain and fills. Or, if you really want, drain it, drop the pan, clean the filter and magnets, reinstall the pan and fill it up.

I personally am doing an annual drain and fill of my transmission now and the fluid comes out pretty red. Doing it at the beginning of each year. You may be able to adopt a schedule similar to that, however your liking is.

Also, throw in a transmission cooler while you're at it. They're inexpensive and will ensure longevity and prevent problems down the road.
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[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by tjcl0201

I need to know, what kind of ATF to use for my '98 3.4L Automatic transmission. I have searched and searched, and cannot find a straight answer. The dipstick says "Dextron II". I cannot find Dextron II in any store...

I checked the level on the dipstick, and I had just got back from going to the store, level was just below 'cool'...which is obviously not good. My 4runner has 251K miles on it, and the fluid on it looks brownish...should I do a complete ATF change? I have never done that, I have never owned any toyotas before this one...

Search this has been discussed fully on type of fluid and changing.

[Spiker Engineering]

Originally Posted by 96RedRunner

Amazing till you want to take it off I used 3M's version in electrical industry.
What ever you cover wires etc. it will fuse to it eventually especially under warm hot conditions.
Trick is to wrap what your covering with electrical tape sticky side out first then this stuff,
here's to hoping this stuff is different.

Agreed, I would not use it like electrical tape to wrap directly over wires. I use it to overwrap existing wire harnesses that have tape peeling off at the ends - this stuff locks that tape nicely in place.

[JoeT4R]

Has anyone renewed their coolant within the last, say, year or so? Did you use Toyota red or the 50/50 pre-diluted pink stuff? I've only used the Toyota red full strength and diluted it myself with distilled water, but from what I'm seeing online, it looks like the full strength stuff has been discontinued?

I haven't been to the local dealer in a while nor have I looked for it specifically either. But I'm approaching 60K miles/5 years on this coolant so I'm thinking it's probably overdue at this point. No overheating or temp. issues but just trying to think ahead is all. Worse case scenario I may just have to use the 50/50 pre-diluted pink stuff. Any input?

[JoeT4R]

Disregard my last.

EDIT: But I would like to know if we in the 3rd gen community are still swearing by the red stuff or have any of us began to use the 50/50 pre-diluted stuff?

[Bad Luck]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

Disregard my last.

EDIT: But I would like to know if we in the 3rd gen community are still swearing by the red stuff or have any of us began to use the 50/50 pre-diluted stuff?

I used only Toyota red coolant diluted with distilled water in my current 4Runner and my last one. First one came with red so I stuck with that. Current one had green coolant, but I had red left over from the first 4Runner so I went with red again after flushing with distilled water several times.

[fatherohenry]

Thought I'd do something simple today like replace alternator brushes.


Turns out this nut seems to be stripped. I've tried back pressure on the adjacent adjustment bolt but I got nothing.


Any thoughts other than trying to cut it off with a Dremel? I don't want to cause additional damage.





EDIT: Couldn't get a Dremel in there straight so had to go at it from different angles before I could knock it loose.

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

I used only Toyota red coolant diluted with distilled water in my current 4Runner and my last one. First one came with red so I stuck with that. Current one had green coolant, but I had red left over from the first 4Runner so I went with red again after flushing with distilled water several times.

Word. I'm debating on what kind I'm going to go with for this next flush and fill. A buddy of mine with a Taco wants to do his but wants to use the pre-diluted stuff. I told him if we could get, say, 6 containers from Toyota at a discounted price then I'd throw in for half and he'd pay the other half. The thing is, I've only ran the full strength stuff before.

I don't foresee any issues with using the 50/50 mix but wanted to put a feeler out there to gather some input. Thanks Patrick.

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[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by fatherohenry

Thought I'd do something simple today like replace alternator brushes.


Turns out this nut seems to be stripped. I've tried back pressure on the adjacent adjustment bolt but I got nothing.


Any thoughts other than trying to cut it off with a Dremel? I don't want to cause additional damage.





EDIT: Couldn't get a Dremel in there straight so had to go at it from different angles before I could knock it loose.

Three words. Flare nut wrench.

If you've already tried that and it's only becoming worse by rounding off more, just leave it alone and obtain a bolt extractor set. They can be found relatively cheaply from many different places, like Harbor Freight for example. Hopefully you have one nearby.

Extract that thing and throw on a new nut at the end. OR, try to apply heat to it as carefully as possible and take a pair of vice grips to it if you can articulate them well enough in that space.

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[fatherohenry]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

Three words. Flare nut wrench.

If you've already tried that and it's only becoming worse by rounding off more, just leave it alone and obtain a bolt extractor set. They can be found relatively cheaply from many different places, like Harbor Freight for example. Hopefully you have one nearby.

Extract that thing and throw on a new nut at the end.

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It was stripped on the inside. Or the bolt threads were stripped. Either way, the nut wasn't coming off by turning. I cut it off with a Dremel once I had replacement parts in hand.

[96RedRunner]

Originally Posted by fatherohenry

I cut it off with a Dremel once I had replacement parts in hand.

Best way to skin that cat, a nut splitter wouldn't have worked on that nut.

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by fatherohenry

It was stripped on the inside. Or the bolt threads were stripped. Either way, the nut wasn't coming off by turning. I cut it off with a Dremel once I had replacement parts in hand.

Hey at least you got it done so I'm happy for you about that. Dealing with stripped things is such a pain to me, I absolutely cannot stand it.

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[ColMntDad]

This is part technical and part judgement. For some reason my 97 4Runner has grown on me. It has grit. My son drives it as his first car. I daily drive my 5th Gen.

When we got Auzz, the idea was to restore it and use it to start teaching basic mechanics to my boys. Mods, Colorado and Utah trails and camping, etc….

Well ice and snow happened and a tree into the left rear quarter panel. How hard is it to fix something like this? Due to the age, body shops are talking about totaling it due to potential inner liner damage. I’m not a fan of trashing a perfectly running car. Body panels look to be rare and most likely will come from a used doner some where.

Mechanically he is still way strong. Before us it was a well cared for Runner.

Should I keep pushing for the professional repair, try to pull it out myself and cover it up, just give in a total it? If your in the Denver area and have knowledge of good body shops willing to restore let me know.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by JoeT4R

Disregard my last.

EDIT: But I would like to know if we in the 3rd gen community are still swearing by the red stuff or have any of us began to use the 50/50 pre-diluted stuff?

I've used both Peak and Zerex, concentrate and 50/50, in my rigs with no issues.

I like Peak red/pink from Amazon, super affordable.

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