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Old 05-28-2020, 10:18 PM #16
Big-B1975 Big-B1975 is offline
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I am locked front and rear with locking hubs. I have an Toyota elocker in the rear and the Eaton/Harrop electric locker in the front and its completely badass, but Its brutal to steer. I switch it on for obstacles and then switch it off. I would absolutely not recommend a drop in locker in the front especially if you dont have locking hubs.
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Old 05-28-2020, 11:25 PM #17
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Front locker whos got one ?

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Originally Posted by Big-B1975 View Post
I am locked front and rear with locking hubs. I have an Toyota elocker in the rear and the Eaton/Harrop electric locker in the front and its completely badass, but Its brutal to steer. I switch it on for obstacles and then switch it off. I would absolutely not recommend a drop in locker in the front especially if you dont have locking hubs.


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Originally Posted by theesotericone View Post
OK. The only zip locker I'm familiar with is made by Yukon and it is an air locker. It's Yukons attempt to compete with ARB. Yukon does not make it for the 7.5" clamshell so if you go with air, which you should, ARB RD92 is your only choice. I think Harrop is making a electric selectable for the 7.5" now as well.

If you decide to go lunchbox you absolutely should go manual hubs if it's your daily. Once you combine the price of the manual conversion and the cost of the lunch box your damn near at the cost of an ARB and compressor. I personally would never put a lunchbox up front.

ARB's are strong as hell. You will break a chromoly shaft before you break the locker or spider gears. That's a fact that ARB has tested and proven on a dyno. The added benefit of being able to lock only when you want is huge. Steering bind can be severe in the rocks. If you can unlock you can adjust without bind then relock. Lunchboxes don't have that advantage so you just have to power through a shit line.

As some folks around here know I wheel a tiny bit. On trails that some think you need solid axles and 40's to complete. I have used my ARB front plenty of times. I only use it as a last resort. There's times when I've been welly and truly stuck. I flip that little cheat switch and drive right out without correcting anything. They are that handy when needed.

Save your money and get the ARB if you plan on wheeling hard rock gardens. Don't bother with the manual swap. It's not worth it IMO.


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Originally Posted by theesotericone View Post
For sure RCV only makes add shafts currently. That could change with enough interest in manual shafts. It would take a lot of people wanting them for RCV to tool up for it. The cups and triploid would be the same for both so RCV already has those.

For me it's not even about the CV's. I just truly don't see the benefit to manual hubs. Most guys make the gas mileage argument. I get 15 MPG with ADD, fully armored, on 35's. If I got 16 with manual hubs that's 6.6% difference. Not worth it to me.

The other argument is "I can drive with a busted CV". I broke 11 CV's before I went with RCV. I changed all of them on the trail in way less time then anyone has ever done an manual hub conversion. You can also drive on a busted CV with ADD in 4WD. It just makes a ton of noise. Again, not worth it for me.


These are literally the answers I was looking for.
This is awesome
Thank you I really appreciate it
Looks like I need to price some things out.
@Smog-guy707
Heres the answer bro lets do it.
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Old 05-29-2020, 12:17 AM #18
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I'm late to the party but I'm also locked front and rear with arbs and came from open open. The rear locker was a great upgrade but after having the front I won't ever own a wheeler without it.

When it's on steering is tough but that's not a huge deal if you plan ahead. Can it lead to broken CVs? Yes. But imo you gotta be pretty oblivious to what the truck is doing to break them. I've wheeled mine on a lot of rough shit and only broke 1 CV and when it went I wasn't surprised. Full lock with the passenger tire burried under a rock.

In a lot of cases the front locker actually makes things easier on the front end because you've got that extra wheel pulling. I use it on almost every ledge I come to now because that tire is helping to pull the truck up rather than just jamming the tire into it and brute forcing it up and over. This also makes the truck way less likely to bounce and get out of control. Also a huge fan of the arb locker because it's instant, as soon as you flip the switch it's on or off there's no rolling delay like some of the other locker options out there.

One other thing is strength. I blew up two sets of stock spider gears in the front end within about 8 or 9 months and know of at least 5 others that have done the exact same thing. Not an issue with the arb because the tolerances are tighter, gears are stronger, and there's twice as many of them.
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Old 05-29-2020, 12:55 AM #19
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Another vote for ARB. My Tacoma and my 4Runner are both locked front and rear with ARBs. Both are also running manual hubs. Both get daily driven.

The ARB is great with IFS because you can choose when to turn it on and off. Use it for an obstacle then turn it back off. If you feel something binding, turn it off. If you need to turn in a tight spot to reposition, turn it off. Obviously they're great on the street because it's like they aren't there. My sister's TJ has a Detroit in the rear and you can feel it kicking in all the time on the street. It's very annoying.

If you can't swing the selectable locker, my next vote would be the Detroit Truetrac. Should give minimal input on the street and help on trails. You can drag the brakes to trick it into locking up if you need extra help on an obstacle.
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Old 05-29-2020, 09:48 AM #20
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Also, for what it's worth, limited slips are great in snow and slippery. Dual limited slip is even better.
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