Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-B1975
I am locked front and rear with locking hubs. I have an Toyota elocker in the rear and the Eaton/Harrop electric locker in the front and it’s completely badass, but It’s brutal to steer. I switch it on for obstacles and then switch it off. I would absolutely not recommend a drop in locker in the front especially if you don’t have locking hubs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theesotericone
OK. The only zip locker I'm familiar with is made by Yukon and it is an air locker. It's Yukons attempt to compete with ARB. Yukon does not make it for the 7.5" clamshell so if you go with air, which you should, ARB RD92 is your only choice. I think Harrop is making a electric selectable for the 7.5" now as well.
If you decide to go lunchbox you absolutely should go manual hubs if it's your daily. Once you combine the price of the manual conversion and the cost of the lunch box your damn near at the cost of an ARB and compressor. I personally would never put a lunchbox up front.
ARB's are strong as hell. You will break a chromoly shaft before you break the locker or spider gears. That's a fact that ARB has tested and proven on a dyno. The added benefit of being able to lock only when you want is huge. Steering bind can be severe in the rocks. If you can unlock you can adjust without bind then relock. Lunchboxes don't have that advantage so you just have to power through a shit line.
As some folks around here know I wheel a tiny bit. On trails that some think you need solid axles and 40's to complete. I have used my ARB front plenty of times. I only use it as a last resort. There's times when I've been welly and truly stuck. I flip that little cheat switch and drive right out without correcting anything. They are that handy when needed.
Save your money and get the ARB if you plan on wheeling hard rock gardens. Don't bother with the manual swap. It's not worth it IMO.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theesotericone
For sure RCV only makes add shafts currently. That could change with enough interest in manual shafts. It would take a lot of people wanting them for RCV to tool up for it. The cups and triploid would be the same for both so RCV already has those.
For me it's not even about the CV's. I just truly don't see the benefit to manual hubs. Most guys make the gas mileage argument. I get 15 MPG with ADD, fully armored, on 35's. If I got 16 with manual hubs that's 6.6% difference. Not worth it to me.
The other argument is "I can drive with a busted CV". I broke 11 CV's before I went with RCV. I changed all of them on the trail in way less time then anyone has ever done an manual hub conversion. You can also drive on a busted CV with ADD in 4WD. It just makes a ton of noise. Again, not worth it for me.
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These are literally the answers I was looking for.
This is awesome
Thank you I really appreciate it
Looks like I need to price some things out.
@
Smog-guy707
Here’s the answer bro let’s do it.