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Old 06-01-2020, 11:29 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnderFire View Post
My advice to you if you're set on a factory elocker setup would be to install a setup with matching factory gears. Your tire size will be around 32", not near enough to warrant a regear. This is coming from someone who's perfectly fine with 3.4, auto, 4.10s and 35's. But I've had just about every setup your can think of with the same tire size and 33's as well, 4.56, 4.88, 3.73, 3.58, etc. I 100% would not regear a truck with 33s.

If you're expecting the gears to somehow make you feel like your truck is a rocket ship you are sorely mistaken. The drawbacks of high cruising RPM and being basically stuck in higher gears at lower speeds due to the engine being wound out will outweigh any gains in acceleration. You are better off staying close to stock overall.

Grimmjeeper has a great calculator that you can use to figure out all the numbers gear wise.

There are also a lot of locker options people on this forum choose to not explore. Mechanical lockers are my preference, the selectable lockers do work though, but with a chance of failure I don't necessarily like.

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Ha no definitely not expecting it to turn into some kind of rocket ship. Its a 18 year old v6 that wasnt known for its power to begin with. I know what i have. The idea was i didnt want to lose acceleration with bigger tires and if i was going to regear i might as well regear above to what stock acceleration would feel like with bigger tires. If that made sense.

You make a good point as others have about not over doing it. I might just gkeep the gears as is, put the money into something else and just get the 265/75/16 tires and call it good.
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Old 06-02-2020, 12:28 AM #17
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1) mine came with 275/75/16 from P.O so I dont know the difference if smaller tires would make much difference
2) my 2000 4x4, 3.4 auto came with 4:10 which several have told me is not normal for the year supposedly earlier manual trannys had that ratio...but that is what the door sticker says and thats what it is. It was actually difficult to find a bolt in elocker drum to drum in that ratio, I dont really know the facts...just what mine is and what I went through to find a drum to drum elocker in that ratio...like at the time none in Oregon...had to drive to washington to get it.
3) you say its your daily and you cant be more than a weekend...well if all parts and tools on hand it wont take long....not including making the harness. I swaped my rear out in a few hours so bet a person dedicated to the weekend could do both...just no surprises
4) yes coastal Oregon has some nice back roads too..I miss oregon forest service roads
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Old 06-02-2020, 12:57 AM #18
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I just have odd luck. Every 3rd gen I’ve owned has been 4:10 geared. 2 manuals and an auto. I also have a spare 4:10 locker 3rd, spare rear locker housing, and a 4:10 open 3rd that needs rebuilt.

I guess I should round up a front, then I could send a pair out to be rebuilt and geared.
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:02 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom8706 View Post
Ha no definitely not expecting it to turn into some kind of rocket ship. Its a 18 year old v6 that wasnt known for its power to begin with. I know what i have. The idea was i didnt want to lose acceleration with bigger tires and if i was going to regear i might as well regear above to what stock acceleration would feel like with bigger tires. If that made sense.



You make a good point as others have about not over doing it. I might just gkeep the gears as is, put the money into something else and just get the 265/75/16 tires and call it good.
It'll be nearly imperceptible. It's really not a huge difference in size, the weight change is more drasti.if you're going with load range E's. Still not going to make much of a difference though.

Keep in mind that 99% of the lifted trucks on the road are running stock gears, most of which are 4.10s or 3.73s. That includes the big ol full sizes running 37's. I'm not saying it's never worth it, but I am saying it's rarely 100% necessary.

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Old 06-02-2020, 01:27 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnderFire View Post
It'll be nearly imperceptible. It's really not a huge difference in size, the weight change is more drasti.if you're going with load range E's. Still not going to make much of a difference though.

Keep in mind that 99% of the lifted trucks on the road are running stock gears, most of which are 4.10s or 3.73s. That includes the big ol full sizes running 37's. I'm not saying it's never worth it, but I am saying it's rarely 100% necessary.

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Was considering Open Range A/T LT265/75R-16/6 which have a C rated load range. Thoughts?
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:31 AM #21
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Originally Posted by Dom8706 View Post
Was considering Open Range A/T LT265/75R-16/6 which have a C rated load range. Thoughts?
Seem to be a good fit for midsized vehicles. Smooth wear and good construction. Very similar overall to the Falken AT3/W. Close cousins.

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Old 06-02-2020, 02:03 AM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
I just have odd luck. Every 3rd gen I’ve owned has been 4:10 geared. 2 manuals and an auto. I also have a spare 4:10 locker 3rd, spare rear locker housing, and a 4:10 open 3rd that needs rebuilt.

I guess I should round up a front, then I could send a pair out to be rebuilt and geared.
I was just going by what I was told...to get mine came out of a 98....so maybe 2000 is a weird one to have 410s. I really dont know. I know that I had to look far for one. even the wrecking yards (B&R is a big one) could not find one. 2 4runner specialty shops could not find one. I had to find my self in washington from deathcougar and he said he was surprised I had a 2000 auto with 410s. Mind you thats a 410 4runner....lots of people were able to chase down just a 410 elocker pumpkin out of a tacoma but I was looking drum to drum
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Old 06-02-2020, 02:16 AM #23
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Quote:
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I was just going by what I was told...to get mine came out of a 98....so maybe 2000 is a weird one to have 410s. I really dont know. I know that I had to look far for one. even the wrecking yards (B&R is a big one) could not find one. 2 4runner specialty shops could not find one. I had to find my self in washington from deathcougar and he said he was surprised I had a 2000 auto with 410s. Mind you thats a 410 4runner....lots of people were able to chase down just a 410 elocker pumpkin out of a tacoma but I was looking drum to drum
I wasn’t intending to disagree with you. I fully agree with you that they are much less common. Almost every locker 4 runner I see is a limited with 4:30 gears.

I just end up with the 4:10 ones for some reason. Mine are all SR5 as well.

I want to try 4:88’s just because, but if I had 4:30’s I’d want less.
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Old 06-02-2020, 09:00 AM #24
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No i dont plan on going any bigger than 265/75/16. I just read on a few posts they fit nicely on these rigs.
I would really see regearing as a waste of money unless you get a good deal on a matching front and rear elocked diff from a 4Runner (typically 4.30 ratio) or get an elocked rear from a tacoma (typically 4.10 which is probably your current gear ratio) and modify to fit in your housing. You are only increasing the tire size by 1 inch. Here's a calculator to compare different gear ratio's and/or tire sizes: Gear Ratio Calculator select tacoma/fj transfer case to get the proper gear reduction ratio.
Summary:
70 mph 265/70R16 4.10 gearing = 2237 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 4.10 gearing = 2163 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 4.30 gearing = 2269 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 4.56 gearing = 2406 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 4.88 gearing = 2575 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 5.29 gearing = 2791 rpm
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Old 06-02-2020, 12:23 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
I would really see regearing as a waste of money unless you get a good deal on a matching front and rear elocked diff from a 4Runner (typically 4.30 ratio) or get an elocked rear from a tacoma (typically 4.10 which is probably your current gear ratio) and modify to fit in your housing. You are only increasing the tire size by 1 inch. Here's a calculator to compare different gear ratio's and/or tire sizes: Gear Ratio Calculator select tacoma/fj transfer case to get the proper gear reduction ratio.
Summary:
70 mph 265/70R16 4.10 gearing = 2237 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 4.10 gearing = 2163 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 4.30 gearing = 2269 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 4.56 gearing = 2406 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 4.88 gearing = 2575 rpm
70 mph 265/75R16 5.29 gearing = 2791 rpm
Based off of that I have 4.3 which isn't bad at all really.
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:07 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
I wasn’t intending to disagree with you. I fully agree with you that they are much less common. Almost every locker 4 runner I see is a limited with 4:30 gears.

I just end up with the 4:10 ones for some reason. Mine are all SR5 as well.

I want to try 4:88’s just because, but if I had 4:30’s I’d want less.
I did not mean to come across as an argument either. Just saying how it worked for me.
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:29 PM #27
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Gearinstalls.com has some great pictures of what is involved in swapping gears. It’s pretty technical — I would not do it myself.
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:54 PM #28
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Based off of that I have 4.3 which isn't bad at all really.
4.30 was only in 4Runner's with e-lockers. You most likely have 4.10 gearing. If you look on your driver door frame you should be able to tell. Check post #7 in this thread for more info: Gear Ratio
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Old 06-02-2020, 02:07 PM #29
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4.30 was only in 4Runner's with e-lockers. You most likely have 4.10 gearing. If you look on your driver door frame you should be able to tell. Check post #7 in this thread for more info: Gear Ratio
A03A. So i have 4.10s. Well that's a much easier way of figuring that out.
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:11 PM #30
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A03A. So i have 4.10s. Well that's a much easier way of figuring that out.
Not always 100% correct, but for the most part the SR5 V6 4Runners are 4.10. Same for open diff 4x4 limiteds. Locked limiteds got the 4.30. Once you get outside of those parameters is where it gets iffy. 4 cylinders, 2wds, base models etc.

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