I have a 97 4runner with 3" lift and 285/70/17 tires. I plan on buying 4xinnovations armor all around with tire carrier and jerry can holder. Will i need a body lift? As of right now i experience no rubbing with my tires on frame but I have not wheeled it yet. I just dont want to buy the armor and have it drop my lift to where it interferes with the tires rubbing. Im looking at a 1" body lift max.
Rubbing happens while turning and having suspension compressed to the bump stops.
If you don’t rub in that condition now, you won’t rub after adding weight.
But if you do rub in that condition now, and just think you don’t cause you don’t bottom out your suspension, then adding weight might make you rub.
Body lift or beat your rig with a hammer seem to be the popular choices. Also upper controll arms and optimizing alignment to move the front tires forward.
If you don’t wheel, then you’ll probably be fine without.
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Owned 82, 83, 87 pickup, 98, 99 SR5 4runner
Currently own a 98 SR5, 5spd, 4x4, e-locker, no sunroof. 2012 LTD with the normal options.
Pull a front coilover and swaybar and cycle the suspension / steering. You will see where you can/will hit while flexing off road. Clearance what is needed or decide if you need a body lift from there.
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
A body lift makes everything so much easier to get to when working underneath, makes things like dropping the gas tank or transmission much easier
Top nuts on the rear shocks.
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'99 Highlander 5-spd manual e-locker no-running-board
SS 3" suspension lift/1" body lift/33" tires/'Snowflake' TRD Taco wheels/231mm Tundra brakes/bumpers/armor/sliders/winch/Sherpa Matterhorn rack
Manual front hubs, NWF Eco-crawler transfer case doubler, second gas tank