No, they have a good checkout system for Canadian orders on their website, lets you pre pay the duties and taxes, make sure to take this option and it avoids the package getting hung up in customs.

(My last delivery sat almost 6 weeks in customs without this option)

Gary

ahh, invaluable info! I'm used to shipping to Maine then we go p/u..
really appreciate!

I replaced the hard line from the elbow fitting at the frame to the flex line with a 12" off the shelf pre-flared piece from Canadian tire and bent it up myself.

Then I used the 95-04 Tacoma extended braided line from Wheeler's Off Road to go directly from the bracket to the caliper which has a banjo fitting on the caliper end. This deletes the small hardline at the caliper. I only have a 1.5" lift but the line is plenty long enough.

long.FRONT BRAKE LINE SET FOR 1995-2004 TACOMA 4X4 AND PRERUNNER (TF BLINE-07, RED OR BLACK)

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Thanks Drew, I looked at that option as well but Wheelers doesn't have a customs/tax prepay option on their cart checkout. With the current covid situation and needing to get back on the road I did not want to take the chance of having brake lines sitting in customs for 5-6 weeks (like my last package). Also not sure if these would work with a 3" lift.

Sweet Drew, kudos to.your outside of the box solution, crappy tire, nvr would of thought.

What type of fitting should one be looking for @cdntire? I'm ignorant in regards to fitting size,flare type, metric vs standard also matters yes?

Also have you replaced the rear flex hose in the middle where the 2 hard lines from the drums meet...if so did you go stock or aftermarket?

I used a 3/16 x 12" line - PMA312 is the number on the part. I have not yet replaced the rear hose but I do have it, bought it from Wheelers also and it is longer.

All excellent tips and ideas on this rusted brake lines.

I always use the cut line with 6 point sockets after soaking in penetrating oil and heating a few times if need be. So +1 on those methods.

I use OEM lines mostly because of their reasonable costs in the United States.

I See are Canadian neighbors dont have these kinds of options as the pricing is insane for some reason.

Stainless can be very hard to with because is extremely stiff and very costly.

If I dont have reasonable pricing of lines available.
I probably make my own out of ni cu tube stock and buy a good flare tool kit. As this would solve having to change them again in the rust belt. To me nothing worse then having to do a job again by using poor quality lines.


Another option is the premade lines of ni cu lines. Just make sure you match the flares on the nuts that you removed.








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Also if you are cutting the line to get the six point on it there is always the option of using vise grips on the flare nut if the wrench rounds it off since it will be ruined anyway. There should be enough space there that you could get a pretty big pair of vice grips on there. You might even want to go with the big vice grip option from the get-go while there is still some kind of flat spot on the flare nut.

99-06 GM Full-size trucks are known for having the brake lines rust out, GM used sub par materials for them and located the abs module under the drivers seat area at the frame - perfect location to be sprayed with slush/salt. I had mine rust out and replaced every hard brake line with stainless steel in a kit pre-bent with all stainless fittings from a company called inline tube. The price wasn't that bad, maybe $500. I already checked they don't make any kits for Toyotas, that was 8 years ago and the lines are still mint!

Bogus on the GM.. I mostly only have to replace the Toyota lines once with OEM on the neglected runners from PO. then paint them keep them under a rust inhibitor and mostly good as long as I have them..

If its a major problem up your way. I just get the flare tool and spools of NI CU with some shipped in nuts and just make your own. You have some money in a good tool but the flare nut themselves aren't bad.. Tubing really isnt either unless Canada is doing something silly..:/

Sorry to bump an old thread but i'm in the search for this brake line adaptor because I might have to replace it when I do my brake lines next. I found my hard lines heavily corroded so I plan to replace a couple soon but i'm not sure if i'll be able be able to save this adaptor.

Also see that Toyota doesn't sell the pre-bent OEM hard lines anymore which sucks. Props to Drew76 for the pic!

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What do you mean they don't sale prevent lines anymore?

I just bought a few hard lines prebent. I now have the ability to make my own using copper nickle and stainless steel nuts.
I also checked and those adapters and lines are still available pre bent from Toyota. :-)


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Does that "adapter" do anything beside re-direct the brake line by 90° ?

I guess I wasn't looking at the right thing in the catalog. Nice to know its still available! Going to take another look right now and see if I can locate some lines.

It doesn't look very useful tbh. Maybe I will bypass it if I choose to go with copper lines and bend them.

The adapter on the passenger side makes changing the starter a lot easier as you can move the line out of your way yet leave it connected.

The driver side may make it easier to remove the upper control arm bushing bolt and removal as well for the control arm the same reason. I think they both are for purposes like those as well as having a union right out of the wheel well behind rubber aprons. Thus not having to replace a long line if they get damaged..

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