06-03-2020, 04:18 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Replacing rust belt brake lines front end 2000 SR5 4Runner
The front hard brake line just above the flex hose on the driver's side front developed a pin hole due to rust - joys of living in the rust belt.
I am going to be replacing the hard lines from the caliper, flex lines, and the first hard line above the flex hose on both sides. (Passenger side is not quite as badly rusted but I want to put both sides in to the same condition)
Waiting for the hard lines coming from Toyota, went with the stainless steel jacket versions from Toytec for the flex hoses. These were less than half the cost of OEM Toyota ($C150.00 for OEM each side) and also about two inches longer which will work well with my 3" lift. Very nice looking high quality parts (Made in USA ) and very fast shipping, came with the 4 clips as well, thank you Toytec!
Any tips from rust belt driveway mechanics on getting the very rusted connector out of the first junction on the top of the frame would be appreciated.
Also looking for any suggestions on what to block the junction with once the connector is removed?
Gary
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2000 SR5 4 Runner, 3.4, 5spd, 4WD
Shrockworks front & rear bumpers & sliders, Warn VR10,000S, Optima Yellow Top, Icon Uniball UCA
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit (Soon to be replaced by Icon)
Method 305 NV Racing Wheels
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06-03-2020, 04:50 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Bahamas
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Gary:
Wow! That's a lot of rust on those brake lines/fittings. I have a 2005 SR5 - 145,000 miles. Had a brake job a few years ago by a mechanic shop with 10 lifts and experienced mechanics (with the tools) and they let me bring them the parts (calipers, etc.). Parts and labor was under $300.
I'd have all the lines looked at on a lift at a brake job place - I wouldn't do those brakes myself.
Good luck.
PS I had a GMC Jimmy, and I've seen brake lines rust away bad - like yours. Had to replace some brake line sections, if I remember.
Got to have brakes for the 4runner.
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06-03-2020, 05:19 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: denver
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Soak it with pb blaster, try to get the pb blaster to seep into the threads and use a wrench put pressure on it but don't brake it free do it a couplee of times with increasing pressure. If that doesn't work use heat on the nut not the line.
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06-03-2020, 06:48 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New York-Lower Hudson Valley
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I also live in an area that has to deal with treated snowy roads in the winter which results in crusty/rusty hardware.
For something like you have there I would start with a small handheld wire brush to clean up as good as possible and then spray the fittings with Kroil.
I have tried all of the spray rust Penetrants over the years and have had the best success with Kroil.
If possible hit those areas with Kroil several times a day for a few days prior to removal and you should be ok.
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2002 SR5 Sport 4WD
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06-03-2020, 07:22 PM
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#5
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Before you even stick a flare wrench on it to try to take it off cut the line as close as you can to the nut. Then use a 6 point 10mm deep socket instead. I’ve had much better luck doing that instead of using a wrench. Soak it in pb blaster or whatever your favorite flavor of rust penetrant is first.
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2001 Sport Edition 4WD, IJM, Auto, DD
1999 SR5 4WD, Millennium Silver Metallic, 5 speed, E-locker, Trail Rig
1998 SR5 4WD Custom bodywork from hitting a median. Beater truck.
1999 Limited 4WD No longer a vehicle. Now it's in parts and stored away.
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06-03-2020, 07:22 PM
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#6
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Guys. I had my 2020 4runner on a lift and was surprised to see all my lines are coated in a black plastic or rubber to help against corrosion. Did the earlier generations have this coating as well???
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06-03-2020, 07:30 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captsolo
Gary:
Wow! That's a lot of rust on those brake lines/fittings. I have a 2005 SR5 - 145,000 miles. Had a brake job a few years ago by a mechanic shop with 10 lifts and experienced mechanics (with the tools) and they let me bring them the parts (calipers, etc.). Parts and labor was under $300.
I'd have all the lines looked at on a lift at a brake job place - I wouldn't do those brakes myself.
Good luck.
PS I had a GMC Jimmy, and I've seen brake lines rust away bad - like yours. Had to replace some brake line sections, if I remember.
Got to have brakes for the 4runner.
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Yeah, this one has 331,000 miles (US truck bought in Arizona in 2005 with 89,000) so its been around the block a few times.
Trouble is it's not drive-able, sitting on jack stands in the driveway. As long as I can get that one fitting out OK the rest should be easy. Had new calipers put on a while back so the fitting on the caliper is not too rusty and the rest can be cut out.
They have switched to using liquid brine instead of rock salt and that stuff seems even worse....
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2000 SR5 4 Runner, 3.4, 5spd, 4WD
Shrockworks front & rear bumpers & sliders, Warn VR10,000S, Optima Yellow Top, Icon Uniball UCA
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit (Soon to be replaced by Icon)
Method 305 NV Racing Wheels
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06-03-2020, 07:33 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Soak it with pb blaster, try to get the pb blaster to seep into the threads and use a wrench put pressure on it but don't brake it free do it a couplee of times with increasing pressure. If that doesn't work use heat on the nut not the line.
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Thanks, been doing that as well as wire brushing, going to scrape the joint between the fitting and the junction as well to try and get the pb blaster in there
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2000 SR5 4 Runner, 3.4, 5spd, 4WD
Shrockworks front & rear bumpers & sliders, Warn VR10,000S, Optima Yellow Top, Icon Uniball UCA
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit (Soon to be replaced by Icon)
Method 305 NV Racing Wheels
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06-03-2020, 07:36 PM
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#9
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 62
Real Name: Gary Blake
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki
I also live in an area that has to deal with treated snowy roads in the winter which results in crusty/rusty hardware.
For something like you have there I would start with a small handheld wire brush to clean up as good as possible and then spray the fittings with Kroil.
I have tried all of the spray rust Penetrants over the years and have had the best success with Kroil.
If possible hit those areas with Kroil several times a day for a few days prior to removal and you should be ok.
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Thanks, don't have Kroil just pb blaster and wd 40, might be waiting till monday or tuesday for the parts so it should have a good soak in by then....
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2000 SR5 4 Runner, 3.4, 5spd, 4WD
Shrockworks front & rear bumpers & sliders, Warn VR10,000S, Optima Yellow Top, Icon Uniball UCA
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit (Soon to be replaced by Icon)
Method 305 NV Racing Wheels
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06-03-2020, 07:40 PM
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#10
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 62
Real Name: Gary Blake
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN4runnerman
Before you even stick a flare wrench on it to try to take it off cut the line as close as you can to the nut. Then use a 6 point 10mm deep socket instead. I’ve had much better luck doing that instead of using a wrench. Soak it in pb blaster or whatever your favorite flavor of rust penetrant is first.
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Thanks a lot, that's a great idea, then I can also just crush the end of the cut line at the junction and use the old fitting as a plug while I attach the new lines - don't want the master cylinder to drain....
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2000 SR5 4 Runner, 3.4, 5spd, 4WD
Shrockworks front & rear bumpers & sliders, Warn VR10,000S, Optima Yellow Top, Icon Uniball UCA
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit (Soon to be replaced by Icon)
Method 305 NV Racing Wheels
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06-03-2020, 07:42 PM
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#11
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
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Real Name: Gary Blake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnfanatic
Guys. I had my 2020 4runner on a lift and was surprised to see all my lines are coated in a black plastic or rubber to help against corrosion. Did the earlier generations have this coating as well???
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Definitely not on my 2000, come back in 20 years though and let us know how that coating is working
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2000 SR5 4 Runner, 3.4, 5spd, 4WD
Shrockworks front & rear bumpers & sliders, Warn VR10,000S, Optima Yellow Top, Icon Uniball UCA
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit (Soon to be replaced by Icon)
Method 305 NV Racing Wheels
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06-03-2020, 09:01 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New York-Lower Hudson Valley
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New York-Lower Hudson Valley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN4runnerman
Before you even stick a flare wrench on it to try to take it off cut the line as close as you can to the nut. Then use a 6 point 10mm deep socket instead. I’ve had much better luck doing that instead of using a wrench. Soak it in pb blaster or whatever your favorite flavor of rust penetrant is first.
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Great suggestion to cut the line and use 6 point socket. Will remember that for future if needed.
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2002 SR5 Sport 4WD
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06-04-2020, 08:33 AM
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#13
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: NB Cda
Posts: 117
Real Name: Jeff
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Join Date: Jul 2018
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C150? Are u in Cda? I'm doing same job and would like to order parts asap..
Curious if you are, if you ordered from U.S. or Cda for Toytec lines, source/site? Part #s? Also wondering what your hard lines set you back @stealership?
I live in Maritimes and so far I've had best luck as mentioned by Sarki using wire brush to clean up area 1st then several applications before starting work...
But from a thread here on this site I started using a 50/50 mix of Acetone & Tranny fluid with best results..
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06-04-2020, 10:31 AM
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#14
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 62
Real Name: Gary Blake
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 62
Real Name: Gary Blake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garn79
C150? Are u in Cda? I'm doing same job and would like to order parts asap..
Curious if you are, if you ordered from U.S. or Cda for Toytec lines, source/site? Part #s? Also wondering what your hard lines set you back @stealership?
I live in Maritimes and so far I've had best luck as mentioned by Sarki using wire brush to clean up area 1st then several applications before starting work...
But from a thread here on this site I started using a 50/50 mix of Acetone & Tranny fluid with best results..
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Yep, in Ontario C$300.00 for the two flex lines quoted by my local dealership, vs $US62.00 for the pair from Toytec.
web Toyota Suspension Lift Kits, Parts & Accessories - Toytec Lifts
Part no: SS-4RFBL
Ordered mine June 2, received June 3, paid for the expedited Fedex shipping.
Also came with the 4 clips that Toyota wants $4.00 each for....
Hard lines are about c$16.00 each which seems reasonable and saves me buying bending and flaring tools.
Gary
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2000 SR5 4 Runner, 3.4, 5spd, 4WD
Shrockworks front & rear bumpers & sliders, Warn VR10,000S, Optima Yellow Top, Icon Uniball UCA
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit (Soon to be replaced by Icon)
Method 305 NV Racing Wheels
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06-04-2020, 10:45 AM
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#15
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: NB Cda
Posts: 117
Real Name: Jeff
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Join Date: Jul 2018
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Sweet thanks Gary I wrongly assumed a long wait coming from us with covid, gonna hop on that link.
cheers, jeff
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