06-04-2020, 09:05 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 172
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 172
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Lock tumblers sticking all 3 doors
Turning to the left to unlock the drivers or passenger door works. Neither will turn to the right consistently to lock the doors. The passenger side might allow me to turn the the right to lock the door 1 out of 100 tries
The same goes with the hatch. Sometimes I can only turn it to the right to lock, but never to the left and usually it's stuck both left and right
I will check for a key fobs system today but when I bought the car it only came with the oem factory, physical, keys
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06-04-2020, 09:21 AM
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#2
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: St John Virgin Islands
Posts: 740
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Location: St John Virgin Islands
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Not sure of your year but if you have an older model without the chip you can bring your vin number to the dealer and they can make you a correct,new set of keys for cheap. Because it affects all your locks either your key isn't quite right or somebody squirted something in all the locks to "lubricate" it. Most likely is somebody made a poor copy of the original key
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R150f swap E-locked 4.30 gears
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06-04-2020, 10:26 AM
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#3
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official vendor
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 5,306
Real Name: Mike
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official vendor
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 5,306
Real Name: Mike
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You can use graphite lubricant to get the tumblers moving again. This is something the locksmiths use on sticking door locks, and it works great. This comes in a little squeeze bottle, and you can squeeze some in the tumblers and put some on the key itself. It may take a little work to get them moving again, but it'll do the trick.
Mike
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Last edited by MStudt; 06-04-2020 at 10:50 AM.
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06-04-2020, 10:46 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: NSL, UT
Posts: 1
Real Name: Dave
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
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Just picked up a 3rd Gen and the original key works fine in the ignition but doesn’t work great on the tumblers in the doors either. It did however come with a non chipped key that was obviously cut when close to new and it is visibly less worn than my ignition key and works perfectly to unlock and lock all the doors. I’ve just kept on my ring for that reason. I’d also suggest getting a new chipped key cut.
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2000 Toyota 4-Runner Limited Green 265k
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06-04-2020, 10:58 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Denver
Posts: 95
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06-04-2020, 11:29 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ohio
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Location: Ohio
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Agree with the graphite recommendations. Works in your ignition, too.
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06-04-2020, 11:35 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ohio
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After looking at those pics, I have to say, that looks like a lot of work. I definitely wouldn't go that route myself without a fully functional replacement by my side. I need an escape route - LOL.
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06-04-2020, 11:38 AM
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#9
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,304
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Location: Stouchsburg PA
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I had new keys made off the key code for each of the three 4Runners. Then I flushed the locks with brake cleaner and relubed them.
The 97 puppy hauler required pulling the drivers door lock completely apart because the tumblers were full of road grime. It was easy taking the lock apart.
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06-04-2020, 11:42 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Denver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thennen
After looking at those pics, I have to say, that looks like a lot of work. I definitely wouldn't go that route myself without a fully functional replacement by my side. I need an escape route - LOL.
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Wasn't that bad, only thing you can really break is the tumbler springs or the metal cylinder cap when you pry at the tabs. You can re-key if you knew the sequence of a new key or have certain doors, glove box, or ignition keyed differently for whatever reason.
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06-04-2020, 12:22 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sun Valley, Idaho
Posts: 148
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sun Valley, Idaho
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I've been dealing with something similar with my 98. My driver door lock won't turn either way. I took the lock cylinder to a locksmith who lubed it up, but it didn't last long, and I just recently got a new key made from the VIN. I'm going to try the locksmith again and see if that lasts a little longer this time around, and then just buy a new lock cylinder if I have to. There's no way I have the patience or discipline to take the entire cylinder apart and put it back together correctly.
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"Bettie" - 1998 4runner LTD E-Locker Evergreen Pearl 275K+, Alpine HU, Infinity Reference Speakers, Airraid MIT, B&M Cooler, Light Racing UCA, RCI skids, Bilstein Tundra 5100 and 4runner Eibach Coils in front/ Bilstein FJ 5100 and OME 890 rear, LC80 wheels wrapped with MT Baja ATZ 285/75/16, 99+ overhead console, 99+ center console, sound-deadening, Ditch lights
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06-04-2020, 03:49 PM
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#13
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 172
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Los Angeles
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Looks like it was the key. I dug out my "spare" and threw some of that graphite lubricant in and it works perfectly both ways
Last edited by jimmyrecluse; 06-04-2020 at 11:03 PM.
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06-04-2020, 06:16 PM
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#14
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shazbot
Wasn't that bad, only thing you can really break is the tumbler springs or the metal cylinder cap when you pry at the tabs. You can re-key if you knew the sequence of a new key or have certain doors, glove box, or ignition keyed differently for whatever reason.
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I thought I had mine repair documented on my 97 Puppy Hauler but it’s not there.
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