Hey guys,

My family has owned a 2001 SR5 with the electronic locker since new. The truck has been great to us, racking up over 305k miles in the last 19 years. My parents gave it to me in 2018 for a move to CA, and I have had the truck parked for the last 6 months trying to figure out what to do with it. I have it at a shop now, and I am trying to figure out what the truck is worth if I start to put some money into it.

The mechanic has about $5500 in maintenance written out, and I still don't know if the cats will need to be replaced to pass smog.

What are these trucks worth with that kind of mileage?

That's really going to depend on what all is wrong with it. Anywhere from $250-???. Need to know what's wrong with it mechanically and visually.

Edit: It's not an electronic locker. It's a center diff lock which changes the transfer case operation from all wheel drive to four wheel drive.

At 300K+ miles, it's worth less than that $5500 bill the mechanic is trying to charge you. Are they replacing the engine or something? Seems like they think you are a gold mine and trying to get every last nickel and dime out of your pocket.

Post some pics and the mechanics work order and forum members can dissect it for you. It will give you a good input towards your decision

Still waiting on my Toyota dealer in CO to send me the maintenance records, but this is my list the mechanic sent to me.

If I was still in CO I would do it myself, but I am not equipped to do this kind of stuff in CA.

Front Brakes Rotors and Pads $550
Differential Fluid F&R $270
Transmission Fluid $300
Transfer Case $135
Suspension Front (Bilsteins) 850
Suspension Rear (Bilstein) $550
Timing Belt $1500
Raidiator $700

Parts and labor. I know that if Toyota comes back with the records and some of this is done it will knock that price down quickly (I am thinking 25-30k miles ago...)

I think it is pretty reasonable to say that it is worth 3k at the most, car has some scratches (No rust though), interior is in decent shape, but definitely shows its age...

Inspection Results

Work order if anyone is curious.

Truck is a beater at this point, but definitely has a history which is cool.

I am just looking for something to haul my bikes around...

the cost to change those fluids is nuts, it's like a 15 minute job with $40 worth of gear oil, same with the cost to do pads and rotors, I'm sure you could find a member near you who would help you do some of the work.

Are those prices at a Toyota dealer? because if it's an independent shop they are trying to take you for a ride

if you buy the parts and a round trip ticket to California for me and my tools I'll do it for you lol

I dont claim to be a mechanic and i also dont take my rig to a mechanic often but last time i did he quoted me about a grand for the timing belt change. If it hasnt been done on your rig at all its definitely time i would say. Everything else you could do yourself if you wanted. Rotors and pads maybe around 120 for parts. Front and rear diff and transfer case would just be cost of fluid so maybe what 60 bucks? The only thing on that list i wouldnt do myself is the timing belt. IMO it comes down to if its worth your time to do these things yourself or not. Either way those prices do seem a little high to me. Could just be the location differences though. I could see it costing that much if you are in SoCal.

Where in CA are you?

I’d be willing to help with the easy service like fluid change to save you some money.

I am in Ventura.

I have seen some private mechanic stuff in the BMW community, but hadn't thought about it for this car.

Ah, a little bit far from me.

There are a lot of YouTube videos to help if you want to tackle on your own.

I was quoted $1600 for the Timing belt/WP job where I live, which has become a high-rent/yuppy/high-tech/Whole Foods district. Small town in AZ or CO maybe $1000 is realistic, but not here. As has already been stated, most of the fluid changes and maintenance charges on this list are ripoff-level.

Why is it urgent for you to do all of this right now? Can't you pick at it as you get the chance?

Brakes OK maybe urgent.
Diff fluid - get to it when you can but not at that price - not urgent just check level
Tranny Fluid - get to it when you can but not at that price - not urgent just check level
Transfer case - get to it when you can but not at that price - not urgent just check level
Suspension - You don't need to spend that much if you don't want to. Put $50 KYBs on it front and rear.
Timing belt - if you need it but lots of guys go over the recommended mileage
Radiator - maybe urgent but put a $100 Denso in it.

No need to be scared out of your vehicle over this quote. Sounds like they are being too picky and too pricey.

After looking at the inspection report they are recommending a lot more than usual because you're a new customer to them and they don't know the service history.

Here's my recommendation and priority:
1) Replace the radiator. It's starting to fail externally which means the transmission cooler in the radiator could be about to fail at any point. Pink milkshake will total this out for you.
2) Replace the rear shocks with KYB. If you want a shop to replace them I would recommend buying the parts from a parts store yourself. They mark up parts higher than what the parts store sells to you at. To check your shocks watch this video: YouTube
3) Take a 10mm ratchet or wrench and undo the upper timing cover. You should be able to pull it back far enough to look at the belt. Lots of cracks you should change it sooner than later. Only a few cracks you have some life left then. My timing belt had 200k on it when I changed it.
4) Front brake pads are at 4/5mm which for my driving is at least another 8k miles, but I coast as much as possible before braking. Your mileage will vary. If you're okay with some squeaking you can just pay for a pad replacement. Just be cautious when braking for the first couple hundred miles until your brake pads match the not flat surface of old rotors.
5) Your front shocks aren't leaking. They're seeping which is normal. As long as your front end doesn't keep bouncing forever then the shocks are fine. If you
6) Check your fluid levels, but fluid change can wait.

Most of that stuff can be ignored, DIY'd or just postponed if the bill is too high. The engine is non-interference, so even a broken timing belt isn't the end of the world. The only other thing I would add is replace those lower ball joints (with OEM parts). They are probably original...

-Charlie